Leaderboard

I always wanted to strap 2 amps together and test them. Since i am dropping these two into my Ford F250 soon, i figured today was a good day to do that! For info on this amp visit http://www.b2audio.com More specs on this amp (pdf file) here https://www.b2audio.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/rage_amps_man_090119.pdf Thanks for watching if you did!

We made a BUNCH of 3/0 AWG custom cables for Ron's Gen 3 Dodge Diesel Truck. We also set him up with a lime green 370A Mechman alternator. He did all the installation per our guidelines. He supplied his own battery terminals and red wire covering . . . He brought it by and we put the carbon pile on it. Now, this thing is kinda' like D'Amore's honeybadger - it don't give a shit. The results were mighty impressive. The screen shot I captured was at idle (800 rpm). We also measured the voltage drop between the alternator and the battery which we had the carbon pile connected. The sun was in the absolute wrong spot at that time so the photos with the meters was washed out, unfortunately. However, who would like to guess the difference in voltage measurements between the two meters, given the following? 315A - at operating temp, at rpm Meter 1 - red to Alt output stud and black to case of alt Meter 2 - red to battery (+) and and black to (-) terminals on passenger side battery This is known as a voltage drop analysis when you look at the difference of voltage between any two points in a circuit. Ideally, we like to see such measurements differ by less than 3%. This shows us if the circuit is optimized or has room for improvement. Keep in mind that any voltage drop is voltage loss, and is converted to heat vs work. So, guesses? And by the way, all alternators have losses due to heat when mounted to an engine in an hot engine bay. We like to see that 15% or less under load while the alternator is at operating temp. So, this Mechman unit delivered the goods as always.

Holy smokes its me again. So I bought an old school Alienware Predator case on the cheap and wanted to throw my current rig in it for pure nostalgia purposes. For those that don't know, these PCs were the BEES KNEES back in 02-05 and was my dream PC. So bought a case on ebay for 200 bucks that looked in decent shape to start. Equipment - CPU- AMD 5800x 3.8ghz GPU - AMD 6900XT 16gb RAM - G Skill 32gb 3600mhz HD - Seagate Firecuda 1TB m.2 Motherboard - ASRock Tiachi x570 Watercooler - AIO 360 radiator (6) 120mm EZDIY rgb fans Monitor - Samsung 49" Odyssey G9 Speakers - Klipsch RP15 with a 10" Klipsch subwoofer First had to take it all apart and start sanding for new paint. What it looked like when I got it, Plasma purple in somewhat decent shape, lots of scratches. Threw on some spray-on bedliner to coat the inside metal case black (no more retro steelie) Everything loaded in External Paint is a Ford explorer black metallic Finished product

it wont stop raining here so i havent done anything util today. managed to get some stuff done this morning before it started again. This round im gonna try to seal off the trunk again and fire forward. gonna do a better job of sealing off this time though. Started out making a template and transferred that to wood and so on and so forth. Going to need some trim pieces for this gap obviously. this part was a pain in the ass to be honest. Myu solution will require a bit of bodywork and filler to flush it out but its not bad. A couple of rectangle pieces and a wedge or two with a weird angle on them should fill this in nicely Made the cutout for the box to fit into. The box is going to sit flush up against the back of this coutout. Here is the base the box will sit on Added some side panels to help seal off. i think i will screw the box into these to make sure its secure. maybe not, i dont know. would be nice to easily remove the box but i dont want any leaks either. Box will sit like this Thats all for today. gotta pull all this out again and then put sound deadener over all the holes i can find so its sealed off really good. then i need a lower trim piece for the front will probably body work the front panel to smooth out all the lines and hide the business end of stuff. I may just wire up everything to make sure the box doesnt have any terrible flaws before i get crazy. i have plenty of depth to work if i need to change anything. i only had about 5 hours to work today, so i didnt get much progress but i guess any progress is good lol. Thanks for looking!

me too! ive always wanted to do one. this one came out a little janky but now i know what mistakes i made and have a better plan for the next one! heres some more pics I dont like these corners sticking out, just asking to get broke off. that takes care of that! All finished up. might paint it later The next step is to toss it in the trunk and see how it sounds. i have a feeling my tuning is gonna be a bit higher than i wanted but thats no big deal. i think i want to seal off the cabin of the car and fire this forward into the cabin from the trunk. The lkast time it tried it i half assed it and it didnt work too well. so maybe i'll get it right this time \

had to kinda test how many kerf to make. i know hunter martin made a guide but who knows where it is anymore'='' second kerf cut made it looks a bit wonky in this view, i went the wrong way, or too far anyway. it wont matter once its all glued up and forced into place and shape. thats all im ding for today. i'll gp do some more work tomorrow. i think i shoulld have cut the speaker hole out first but as long as i clamp this down tiight and flat it will be fine. i'll add a second baffle when i ge to that point. thanks for looking

The list of "150db" leader board on term pro, in just DB drag, is about 47 pages long. Just in the 1k class. Most, have 2 drivers, and not 18's. Your vehicle plays a big role in metering efficiency. If all you are doing, is chasing numbers, Id rethink your entire set up. (To me, the Fi btl, is one of the most rad drivers out there,.. i love them, especially for a daily ground pounder, but hey, do you)

Also got my rock lights back to working. Had a lil hiccup when the lift was installed. Got them repaired, and working again. 20220526_000307.mp4

True, TRUE sq, can get out of hand fast, budget wise. Speaker location, is huge, as well as direct over buying 4000 dollar focal rigs. Ive never done a sq build, but, buying seperates, over comp sets seems ideal to me (what ive done) as well as processing, time alignment, location, direction, sound dampening, vehicle resonance at specific frequencies, and such, then, that brings in tools. You will want/need a good mic, laptop/3software, and such, to show you bandwidth, peaks, valleys, direction, TA, and such. (Where a good dsp will help) Source can be huge, lossless files/music is a full other bag of monsters.... A true sq oriented building is super satisfying and SUPER involved. Most say SQ, and most just have decent gear in oem locations, and it sounds ok, and they call it sq. Gear,.. bring money. Most SQ guys, won't run anythkng but class A, or class AB. They are large amps, that make more heat than your generic class d turd. (See Tonys big boy, sq class holy fuck amplifer line, things cost more than my entire build) So, its all up to you, how far you wanna go down the rabbit hole. Cheers and good luck. (I think most that say SQ, TRUE SQ, really dont have any idea what they are getting into, but, if you're willing, anything is doable no doubt)

Hey guys! It's been a LONG time. I decided I would hop on here and share a couple of builds I have going on right now. my roommate and best friend Stephen just bought a Jetta Sportwagen TDI, and he has big plans for it. We started off with window tint (5% ceramic tint all the way around) and a stereo to replace that awful factory bluetooth setup. Today, we built the box and put it all together. I sold him some old Skar VVX 12 v3s and an RP1500.1D I had in my 4Runner (stay tuned for a build on that 4Runner soon!). Upcoming is KW Coilovers, Rawtek full exhaust, CR170 turbo, Malone Stage 3 tune and some head porting. First is tinting. Picking up wood in my Blackwood! No bed ftl lol. Equipment! Design Time to build! Time to put her in! She hides pretty well! lol. Stay tuned for more!

Since its an SIA amp, you most likely (or your "friend that knows more") have the crossover settings on the amp all wrong for sub use, it's a common issue with people that know it all but never messed with a full bridge full range amp before. It's so bad of an issue of this self proclaimed professional installers that been doing this forever send perfectly working amps back as bad amps for warranty. Watch this video which explains what the crossovers do and how to set them, since its a full range amp the crossovers basically work oppisite/backkwards of what they do on a typical sub amp that just outputs a low pass only signal.

Been awhile guys and I’m laughing at myself and some of the things I’ve said on this build log lol. Feel like I’ve learned a decent bit about car audio since I’ve been active on this build log but anyways box is drying as we speak with its final coating of paint. Waiting on my alternator from Dc power to come in and will be ordering headway cells (doing a battery delete) to make a bank.

Ive had 8 amps, on one remote line. Never had a issue.

Here are the Skar EVL (Yellow) and the Resilient Gold (orange) on your box specs. The Resilient Gold it looks they can work in a larger net volume than the skar, in fact their spec tops at 2.5 net per driver, they even have larger Xmax to back it up. Conclusion: these subs will work just fine in your current box but you may gain some extra performance going with a larger box.

It almost looks like a grey scaled filter or something...but it isn't. This photo is real life. green ain't exactly my favorite color but it does look good here! that's all for today! new video coming tomorrow!

Cover is held with magnets Template to make a recess Since it's been so long. This is what it powers

Crazy design built crazy fast but I do agree with you, if you enjoyed the outcome, in the end it's all that matters.

Thats 100% not the glue that they use on dustcaps. Also the way the surround is unevenly pulled away from the basket edges is rather jank So this was apparently rebuilt by someone with very little experience in building woofers. This is not Sundown quality and something like this wouldnt be sold as new. Your audio dealer is trying to play you for a fool, so I would throw this threw his shop window and put a gun to his head and tell him to give back your money.

periodically check for corrosion for under hood battery connections , for lug connections always use glue lined heat shrink , for direct wire connections (set screw type) use a wire ferrule with heat shrink to better protect wire from moisture .

This has now been fixed!

An amp that makes 2,000watts rms at 1 ohm would be fine, it will be crucial to have the gain set properly so that it is matched to the radios rca preout voltage, after all the gain is NOT a volume knob (this goes for any amp). Over powering a speaker with more than its rated rms power typically never hurts anything as long as the gain is set correctly and you have your crossovers set correctly, and not being stupid when it comes to listening to the stereo, the woofers will start to stink a little to a lot when they get warm to hot and that is your warning to turn the volume down before they blow! 1000 watt rms worth of woofers will take extra clean undistorted unclipped power fairly well, but 1000 watt rms worth of woofers can easily be blown on 1000 watts of dirty distorted clipped power rather easily all because it wasn't as loud as you expected and decided to turn up the gain and use it as a volume knob to make it louder. Just know that you can still blow the speakers by feeding them too much power if you ignore the signs of them getting warm/hot and stinky!

Not a ton accomplished over the past few weeks.. Almost complete with a pillars. Totally underestimated the Fab required.. these are the 1st time I've tried to make pillars in my life. Flocked them, still need to cover the grab handles. Also need to make the cloth cover with a MDF ring, the 3d printed ring warped BIGTIME in the sun Assembled the 3rd & 4th banks of lithium & supercaps. Mounted in the rear and started deciding where to place the distribution block Terminated belden cat6a to WBT ends(legitimate rca's - not the eBay specials lol) ran cat6 & rj45 to amps & processor in center console Installed arc 6.0s in the door

These won't work because the D4700 battery terminals are sunken down below the top of the battery (unlike a D3400 or D3100 for example with a flat top). I swear there was someone that made a terminal to fit these styles of batteries but I can't find anything so they may no longer be made since people are starting to move away from agm. Your best bet would be to limit the amount of wiring to just the oem wiring and then run an additional positive and negative power wire to a distribution block mounted under the hood where you can then connect your additional upgraded wiring from your alt along with your main power wires going to the rear when you do ad a system. Steve makes a bunch of great Distro blocks that would work great for this with plenty of color options and a lifetime warranty! https://www.wccaraudio.com/smd-products/smd-distribution-blocks.html Basically the same truck, this is exactly how I would do it!

Co2 tank mount. Prayed it would fit kekw. It did, perfectly.

So I mounted them quick to get an idea, fed them from a b2 rage 2500.1 at 2ohm so they saw 2k.. Honestly thought it'd be a touch louder on 2k. Definitely over 150db for sure though (comparing to my older systems which I've metered). Either way, when all said & done they'll see 8k.. slightly more power lol. Did a little trim work & wrapped the amps in a vinyl. The beauty panel upper portion around the port will also be wrapped in the forged carbon vinyl & the lower half around the subs will be black suede. I'll have trouble wiring the amps as it's REAL tight. We'll see

I LOVE that amp rack!

Hey all, I wanted to throw out a new link to the SMD tool map I have been updating since April 23, 2020 to get some more exposure to this map and gather more data. Likewise, I will link the raw data in .csv format for any future map mods to have access to. Along side this I will show the process to update the data into google maps. If you would like to update your information or be added to this map please do the following: PM @Joshdashef or Respond to this post with a location, tools available, and any additional comments you want to add. Example: AZ Phoenix. DD-1, Term Lab. Will help with setting gains, etc. Contact me _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Map Link _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ The rest of this post will be like a tutorial so you can disregard unless your curious what is behind the curtain (one-time setup to create your own map with data) Sign into google account and create a custom "My Maps" Then download .csv file titled, "SMD Tool Map 20XX - RAW CLEAN DATA," from link above Follow next steps below for updating data for first time imports I use google drive to make this process a little easier but essentially you will be manually importing the data (sadly no way to automate or have live data changes show without scripting) My google sheet looks like this All cells that are highlighted are what I enter in from any request. Date/Username/County/State/City/Zip Code/Tools/A.I. (leaving anything blank that isn't mentioned). The Agg. Location is a formula using some if and concatenate formulas, so that will normalize it all for google maps api to show the markers. Updating Data You will have a blank map at the beginning or a layer already created if you are updating data. You will want to add another layer regardless then click import If you use a file type like .csv you can upload it here or use Google Drive to import (easier) Once you have your file imported, it will ask you two questions. Follow the pictures below using Agg. Location and Username respectively. 1. Choose columns to position your placemarks (what does google maps need to place a dot = address/location/gps cords./etc.) 2. Choose a column to title your markers (name of each dot placed) This will create a new layer titled the same as the file you import. We want to change to a different style than Uniform. Click Uniform Style Select Group places by: Seq. of numbers | Set labels: Username (or something else if you want) Done

little progress today. might work on it some more this evening. figure a speaker ring should give me enough thickness to support the sub. guess i'l find out.

Found that the head unit is clean to full/max volume. Set the sub amplifier at -7.5db overlap. I was close, but now I know the head unit is clean (my biggest want) and the board is set with my prefered overlap. Good shit. Gets down ok. Next, is fighting the roof rattles. I want to get into the headliner, put some mass up there in a few specific areas, and i think thatll help a ton. Also ran sweeps and saw what the vehicle and enclosure like. It has a super flat responce, barely losing a db in 20 herz. It has a nice nice "peak" around 28hz, and then again around 40hz. Its kinda acting like a band pass. I dig it. Im glad the vehicle resonates low. On to rattle fighting. 20220523_131052.mp4

You,.. have a lot,.. a LOT to learn. Recommend you keep on reading and growing

In a perfect world you might get 1500 rmw to each sub, but with box rise you are getting 1k Max to each sub, and this is if you are wired to .5 ohm (assuming you stay at 14 volts). Any lower and you are loosing rms. Box rise is a bitch. Dont go clipping, that will kill your subs, tune the amp, but realize as soon as voltage drops you will start to clip sooner.

The whole 'battery delete' thing isn't indicating to remove the battery, just to avoid mixing chemistries. There are some other reasons, but they don't apply to your rig. With your desired setup, there are 2 advantages here: 1. It's in the trunk. Away from the hood. Away from the heat of the engine. 2. LTO is a kickass chemistry. So.... The usual advice for deleting the under-hood battery is geared much more around conventional battery installs, where running NMC/LFP batteries under the hood would well exceed safe operating temps for those chemistries. LTO doesn't mind it. And you're in the trunk. So honestly, if it fits, you can just toss an LTO battery in the stock location. Barring that, you can see about finding a 'dummy battery' - an empty battery case with terminals, serving as a placeholder. Other considerations: - It would be ideal to convert your alternator to external regulation, or find some other means to maintain a constant charge voltage that doesn't have hot-cold fluctuation. Granted, LTO is much less sensitive to this than other chemistries. But you still don't want to over-charge them. Or under-charge them. - Quick glance at the given specs for the batteries you posted looks like it's in a 6s config. LTO cells are fully charged at ~2.8v. Which means you'd want your alternator set to about 16v. Charging in the ~14v range at stock voltage would mean that you have basically no battery capacity. If, however, you got a 5s battery, that would be fully charged at ~13.5v, and charging higher would be over-charging. Above 3v per cell would be over-charged (15v in a 5s config), causing accelerated wear. And above 3.2v per cell would cause rapid and immediate degradation of the unit (16v in a 5s config). Though, of note, LTO cells don't have a catastrophic failure mode as would other chemistries. So it'll just quietly stop working as opposed to turning into a flamethrower.

Nice, simple, perfect fitment. I like it!

Panels are primered now. Primered will be painted body color

whooops broke the frame on this one New frame time This thing is like the ship of Theseus. As of now, the original parts from the donor bike are: handle bars, stem, pedals, chain. New frame time. With some hilarious branding

thank you sir! If anything the build has been a great learning experience. I think I'll enjoy it for a while until I get the itch to upgrade something (perhaps larger front door woofers first HMMM ) and/or change cars and begin a NEW build. The baby will be a totally NEW adventure I am sure

T and S parameters for x12 v3 after a few months of abuse regular use.

Awesome.... Good shit Steve. I own a Damore - 350.2, 400.4 and the 1000.1. I spoke with Tony,... and he told me, "dude, you may wanna wait a bit before ya buy the 1000.1". I didnt listen, and just got it anyway lol. He is a stud. Anyway, well shit, now i want to run the 1500. For those into them, and want a bit of info. The boards are great. Small, run cool. And if you know me, you know, i run all my gear hard. Not abuse it, but, i fucking run my junk. My shit doesnt sit in a spare room somewhere. From my vehicles, to my guns, camping gear, audio, all of it. I work hard, and i play hard, and my gear, needs to perform, or, i get something that does. These boards do, and for a great cost, and the build quality is top tier. I run 2 in my 4 runner currently, with a soon third (most likely the 1500, if i chose it over the 1000.1 i have). If your even thinking about one of these boards,.. click buy, and your welcome. KB

You can do 2 12 or one 15 in that trunk, no space problem, so you are limited by your electrical, if you want to avoid upgrades you want to stay below 1000W depending on your car, so the question is will you be willing to buy electrical later on or not?

As far as Skar being on the cheap end, you're right. They serve their purpose though. I would really consider them in the high end of the budget brands, if that makes sense. Their amps do rated power, their subs handle their RMS just fine, their quality control in the past has been a little suspect, but if there was ever a manufacturing problem with their equipment, I've never heard of anyone having any problems getting a replacement. They really are what I would suggest to someone on a budget build. If you think I'm blowing smoke, go to YouTube and check out some of the big ass Skar builds dudes are doing. They'll get down, as long as you take care of them. That being said, $500 for everything is tough. Quality OFC wire is expensive. A good, strong, Korean amp board can be expensive. Tough, under rated subwoofers can get expensive. And the electrical upgrades to your vehicle to power said equipment can get expensive. If you buy expensive, quality equipment, then half ass the install, you just spent all that money for nothing, because it's going to sound like crap, and 9 times out of 10, you'll end up damaging your equipment as well. Maybe you can find some good, used stuff in your area. Fosgate, Sundown, incriminator, and JL are my favorite amplifier brands. Expensive though. B2, Sundown, Deaf Bonce, and FI are my favorite, quality subwoofer brands. Again, expensive. As far as your other questions, measure how much space you're willing to give up for your system in your vehicle, and we can go from there. You could buy the best subs and amps in the world, but if you don't have the correct airspace for the correct enclosure size, it's all for not.

Thank you. I showed my wife the system at night. She said she will not get in it at all now. All because of how it looks with the blue lights lol. I don't feel so bad now. I felt the same way. Then again I've not sat right in front of them either. I might just have to now lol. I think this was the boys first time ever hearing a bass system also. Thank you again. Means a lot to me.

Do you compete? port up, at times, can yield better mic performance. But ive seen port forward, on the driver side, when mic'd on the pass dash, do best also. (As far to the back driver side as possible). Not competing, and just want some lows, and loud i may have went 12s, because your enclosure volume is going to be small, hell, (which will be hard to get a longer vent/port length) even if you wall it. Power doesn't really matter if your efficient about it. (Larger/proper enclosure)

Please provide amp model, vehicle model and max dims for a box.

Here's what modeling shows for your sub between a 1.5 cuft sealed (yellow plot) and a 2 cuft @ 32 Hz enclosure (orange plot): It's a lot of output lost using sealed in this case.

Custom tweeter pods - 2 in each sail panel. Cadillac Escalade Mids & Highs install video 3