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  1. I always wanted to strap 2 amps together and test them. Since i am dropping these two into my Ford F250 soon, i figured today was a good day to do that! For info on this amp visit http://www.b2audio.com More specs on this amp (pdf file) here https://www.b2audio.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/rage_amps_man_090119.pdf Thanks for watching if you did!
    4 points
  2. We made a BUNCH of 3/0 AWG custom cables for Ron's Gen 3 Dodge Diesel Truck. We also set him up with a lime green 370A Mechman alternator. He did all the installation per our guidelines. He supplied his own battery terminals and red wire covering . . . He brought it by and we put the carbon pile on it. Now, this thing is kinda' like D'Amore's honeybadger - it don't give a shit. The results were mighty impressive. The screen shot I captured was at idle (800 rpm). We also measured the voltage drop between the alternator and the battery which we had the carbon pile connected. The sun was in the absolute wrong spot at that time so the photos with the meters was washed out, unfortunately. However, who would like to guess the difference in voltage measurements between the two meters, given the following? 315A - at operating temp, at rpm Meter 1 - red to Alt output stud and black to case of alt Meter 2 - red to battery (+) and and black to (-) terminals on passenger side battery This is known as a voltage drop analysis when you look at the difference of voltage between any two points in a circuit. Ideally, we like to see such measurements differ by less than 3%. This shows us if the circuit is optimized or has room for improvement. Keep in mind that any voltage drop is voltage loss, and is converted to heat vs work. So, guesses? And by the way, all alternators have losses due to heat when mounted to an engine in an hot engine bay. We like to see that 15% or less under load while the alternator is at operating temp. So, this Mechman unit delivered the goods as always.
    3 points
  3. Holy smokes its me again. So I bought an old school Alienware Predator case on the cheap and wanted to throw my current rig in it for pure nostalgia purposes. For those that don't know, these PCs were the BEES KNEES back in 02-05 and was my dream PC. So bought a case on ebay for 200 bucks that looked in decent shape to start. Equipment - CPU- AMD 5800x 3.8ghz GPU - AMD 6900XT 16gb RAM - G Skill 32gb 3600mhz HD - Seagate Firecuda 1TB m.2 Motherboard - ASRock Tiachi x570 Watercooler - AIO 360 radiator (6) 120mm EZDIY rgb fans Monitor - Samsung 49" Odyssey G9 Speakers - Klipsch RP15 with a 10" Klipsch subwoofer First had to take it all apart and start sanding for new paint. What it looked like when I got it, Plasma purple in somewhat decent shape, lots of scratches. Threw on some spray-on bedliner to coat the inside metal case black (no more retro steelie) Everything loaded in External Paint is a Ford explorer black metallic Finished product
    3 points
  4. it wont stop raining here so i havent done anything util today. managed to get some stuff done this morning before it started again. This round im gonna try to seal off the trunk again and fire forward. gonna do a better job of sealing off this time though. Started out making a template and transferred that to wood and so on and so forth. Going to need some trim pieces for this gap obviously. this part was a pain in the ass to be honest. Myu solution will require a bit of bodywork and filler to flush it out but its not bad. A couple of rectangle pieces and a wedge or two with a weird angle on them should fill this in nicely Made the cutout for the box to fit into. The box is going to sit flush up against the back of this coutout. Here is the base the box will sit on Added some side panels to help seal off. i think i will screw the box into these to make sure its secure. maybe not, i dont know. would be nice to easily remove the box but i dont want any leaks either. Box will sit like this Thats all for today. gotta pull all this out again and then put sound deadener over all the holes i can find so its sealed off really good. then i need a lower trim piece for the front will probably body work the front panel to smooth out all the lines and hide the business end of stuff. I may just wire up everything to make sure the box doesnt have any terrible flaws before i get crazy. i have plenty of depth to work if i need to change anything. i only had about 5 hours to work today, so i didnt get much progress but i guess any progress is good lol. Thanks for looking!
    3 points
  5. me too! ive always wanted to do one. this one came out a little janky but now i know what mistakes i made and have a better plan for the next one! heres some more pics I dont like these corners sticking out, just asking to get broke off. that takes care of that! All finished up. might paint it later The next step is to toss it in the trunk and see how it sounds. i have a feeling my tuning is gonna be a bit higher than i wanted but thats no big deal. i think i want to seal off the cabin of the car and fire this forward into the cabin from the trunk. The lkast time it tried it i half assed it and it didnt work too well. so maybe i'll get it right this time \
    3 points
  6. had to kinda test how many kerf to make. i know hunter martin made a guide but who knows where it is anymore'='' second kerf cut made it looks a bit wonky in this view, i went the wrong way, or too far anyway. it wont matter once its all glued up and forced into place and shape. thats all im ding for today. i'll gp do some more work tomorrow. i think i shoulld have cut the speaker hole out first but as long as i clamp this down tiight and flat it will be fine. i'll add a second baffle when i ge to that point. thanks for looking
    3 points
  7. The list of "150db" leader board on term pro, in just DB drag, is about 47 pages long. Just in the 1k class. Most, have 2 drivers, and not 18's. Your vehicle plays a big role in metering efficiency. If all you are doing, is chasing numbers, Id rethink your entire set up. (To me, the Fi btl, is one of the most rad drivers out there,.. i love them, especially for a daily ground pounder, but hey, do you)
    3 points
  8. Also got my rock lights back to working. Had a lil hiccup when the lift was installed. Got them repaired, and working again. 20220526_000307.mp4
    3 points
  9. True, TRUE sq, can get out of hand fast, budget wise. Speaker location, is huge, as well as direct over buying 4000 dollar focal rigs. Ive never done a sq build, but, buying seperates, over comp sets seems ideal to me (what ive done) as well as processing, time alignment, location, direction, sound dampening, vehicle resonance at specific frequencies, and such, then, that brings in tools. You will want/need a good mic, laptop/3software, and such, to show you bandwidth, peaks, valleys, direction, TA, and such. (Where a good dsp will help) Source can be huge, lossless files/music is a full other bag of monsters.... A true sq oriented building is super satisfying and SUPER involved. Most say SQ, and most just have decent gear in oem locations, and it sounds ok, and they call it sq. Gear,.. bring money. Most SQ guys, won't run anythkng but class A, or class AB. They are large amps, that make more heat than your generic class d turd. (See Tonys big boy, sq class holy fuck amplifer line, things cost more than my entire build) So, its all up to you, how far you wanna go down the rabbit hole. Cheers and good luck. (I think most that say SQ, TRUE SQ, really dont have any idea what they are getting into, but, if you're willing, anything is doable no doubt)
    3 points
  10. Hey guys! It's been a LONG time. I decided I would hop on here and share a couple of builds I have going on right now. my roommate and best friend Stephen just bought a Jetta Sportwagen TDI, and he has big plans for it. We started off with window tint (5% ceramic tint all the way around) and a stereo to replace that awful factory bluetooth setup. Today, we built the box and put it all together. I sold him some old Skar VVX 12 v3s and an RP1500.1D I had in my 4Runner (stay tuned for a build on that 4Runner soon!). Upcoming is KW Coilovers, Rawtek full exhaust, CR170 turbo, Malone Stage 3 tune and some head porting. First is tinting. Picking up wood in my Blackwood! No bed ftl lol. Equipment! Design Time to build! Time to put her in! She hides pretty well! lol. Stay tuned for more!
    3 points
  11. Since its an SIA amp, you most likely (or your "friend that knows more") have the crossover settings on the amp all wrong for sub use, it's a common issue with people that know it all but never messed with a full bridge full range amp before. It's so bad of an issue of this self proclaimed professional installers that been doing this forever send perfectly working amps back as bad amps for warranty. Watch this video which explains what the crossovers do and how to set them, since its a full range amp the crossovers basically work oppisite/backkwards of what they do on a typical sub amp that just outputs a low pass only signal.
    3 points
  12. Been awhile guys and I’m laughing at myself and some of the things I’ve said on this build log lol. Feel like I’ve learned a decent bit about car audio since I’ve been active on this build log but anyways box is drying as we speak with its final coating of paint. Waiting on my alternator from Dc power to come in and will be ordering headway cells (doing a battery delete) to make a bank.
    3 points
  13. Ive had 8 amps, on one remote line. Never had a issue.
    3 points
  14. Here are the Skar EVL (Yellow) and the Resilient Gold (orange) on your box specs. The Resilient Gold it looks they can work in a larger net volume than the skar, in fact their spec tops at 2.5 net per driver, they even have larger Xmax to back it up. Conclusion: these subs will work just fine in your current box but you may gain some extra performance going with a larger box.
    3 points
  15. It almost looks like a grey scaled filter or something...but it isn't. This photo is real life. green ain't exactly my favorite color but it does look good here! that's all for today! new video coming tomorrow!
    3 points
  16. Cover is held with magnets Template to make a recess Since it's been so long. This is what it powers
    3 points
  17. Crazy design built crazy fast but I do agree with you, if you enjoyed the outcome, in the end it's all that matters.
    3 points
  18. Thats 100% not the glue that they use on dustcaps. Also the way the surround is unevenly pulled away from the basket edges is rather jank So this was apparently rebuilt by someone with very little experience in building woofers. This is not Sundown quality and something like this wouldnt be sold as new. Your audio dealer is trying to play you for a fool, so I would throw this threw his shop window and put a gun to his head and tell him to give back your money.
    3 points
  19. I don’t post much anymore but i do lurk. Still into guns just not nearly into the audio stuff anymore. My hearing is shit as it is. I figured I’d post my most expensive purchase to date though. got promoted this year and wanted to reward myself so I decided I’d shoot a new USPSA division and jump in with a brand new custom open gun. Limcat Sabercat with the TSRB barrel.
    2 points
  20. These won't work because the D4700 battery terminals are sunken down below the top of the battery (unlike a D3400 or D3100 for example with a flat top). I swear there was someone that made a terminal to fit these styles of batteries but I can't find anything so they may no longer be made since people are starting to move away from agm. Your best bet would be to limit the amount of wiring to just the oem wiring and then run an additional positive and negative power wire to a distribution block mounted under the hood where you can then connect your additional upgraded wiring from your alt along with your main power wires going to the rear when you do ad a system. Steve makes a bunch of great Distro blocks that would work great for this with plenty of color options and a lifetime warranty! https://www.wccaraudio.com/smd-products/smd-distribution-blocks.html Basically the same truck, this is exactly how I would do it!
    2 points
  21. Here are the doors! All 4 doors done. Material is crocodile. Each door has 2 8s and 1 bullet tweeter. Fab done by Phat Boyz! EDIT: first image is front doors, last image back doors.
    2 points
  22. Sniff a Cross fire C7,. for fun,... .. but any/all mentioned above ^^^^^^ are all great options.
    2 points
  23. More slow progress.. -Molded the beauty panel into the Cpillar with "kitty hair" & wrapped in suede- 1st time using the stuff, wayyy better than bondo - built amp rack as 1 piece, painted with krylon stone spray paint... yeahhh, I know I took the easy route but no way was I gonna be able to wrap it successfully - started lithium rack in the rear, 80ah & 500 farad on each side, big distro in the middle
    2 points
  24. 2 points
  25. Hey all, I wanted to throw out a new link to the SMD tool map I have been updating since April 23, 2020 to get some more exposure to this map and gather more data. Likewise, I will link the raw data in .csv format for any future map mods to have access to. Along side this I will show the process to update the data into google maps. If you would like to update your information or be added to this map please do the following: PM @Joshdashef or Respond to this post with a location, tools available, and any additional comments you want to add. Example: AZ Phoenix. DD-1, Term Lab. Will help with setting gains, etc. Contact me _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Map Link _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ The rest of this post will be like a tutorial so you can disregard unless your curious what is behind the curtain (one-time setup to create your own map with data) Sign into google account and create a custom "My Maps" Then download .csv file titled, "SMD Tool Map 20XX - RAW CLEAN DATA," from link above Follow next steps below for updating data for first time imports I use google drive to make this process a little easier but essentially you will be manually importing the data (sadly no way to automate or have live data changes show without scripting) My google sheet looks like this All cells that are highlighted are what I enter in from any request. Date/Username/County/State/City/Zip Code/Tools/A.I. (leaving anything blank that isn't mentioned). The Agg. Location is a formula using some if and concatenate formulas, so that will normalize it all for google maps api to show the markers. Updating Data You will have a blank map at the beginning or a layer already created if you are updating data. You will want to add another layer regardless then click import If you use a file type like .csv you can upload it here or use Google Drive to import (easier) Once you have your file imported, it will ask you two questions. Follow the pictures below using Agg. Location and Username respectively. 1. Choose columns to position your placemarks (what does google maps need to place a dot = address/location/gps cords./etc.) 2. Choose a column to title your markers (name of each dot placed) This will create a new layer titled the same as the file you import. We want to change to a different style than Uniform. Click Uniform Style Select Group places by: Seq. of numbers | Set labels: Username (or something else if you want) Done
    2 points
  26. Typically when adding 1/0 wire from the charging stud of your alternator to the battery positive terminal the wire is rather short and typically able to be ran in such a way where the wire is never in real danger of abrasion causing a short or extreme heat from something such as the exhaust/manifold. Now you can fuse it if you are overly concerned about it not being fused and you will want to fuse it as close to your alternators output amperage. The vast majority of people don't fuse their positive wire for the "big 3" due to the reason I mentioned above and the reason I mention down below. You will want to use an ANL fuse and fuse holder not a fusible link. I think the largest gauge fusible links are around 8 gauge (maybe 4 gauge), but I am not aware of the amperage ratings they offer. Using a 8 gauge or even 4 gauge fusible link on 1/0 wire will most likely cause a decent amount of resistance under high amperage loads and that's not ideal because it creates heat in the wire. I'm more than certain your current fusible link for your starter is rather low amperage and rated for the maximum amperage that your starter draws when starting the vehicle. That being said it is fine and will not need to be replaced for a larger fusible link. So if you have 180 amp alternator you can probably get by with a 150 amp fuse but if it blows use a 200 amp fuse, a 250 amp alternator then use a 250 amp fuse, if its a 390 amp alternator use a 400 amp fuse, etc. Try to use the closest fuse size without going over by too many amps, typically a fuse will allow a decent bit of additional current through for periods of times before it blows (which is why I said a 150 amp fuse for a 180 amp alternator). However like I said above it's typically not needed or done by almost anyone who does the big 3 upgrage.
    2 points
  27. So I had to replace the mid/highs amp. It's starting to go. You could listen to music loud/low and on occasion you would get no sound for a few seconds. Tried different RCAs/deck same thing. I also did a complete front batteries delete/added headway cells. Cells were charged then connected. Since they are used from batteryhookup.com instead of being 8ah per cell they are prolly 5ah at a min, so we can say 100ah minimum. Can I play all day and voltage not drop yes. Also fuck Google photos. New phone saves everything to it. And I don't like it.
    2 points
  28. Bear in mind that many of those demo vehicles are using bandpass enclosures which can load the drivers not at a small range of frequencies like ported does but to a custom range that you can set (usually a full octave) in the case of 6th order bandpass enclosures, so they can be mighty loud with almost anything they play.
    2 points
  29. You have 706 square inches of cone area with the four 15's and two 18's would only be 508 square inches and your measurements with a double baffle gives you 16.70 cubic feet of space. You would be better buying new 15's with good xmax capabilities to get the windy outcome.
    2 points
  30. An isolator is suggested if you're going to be play with the engine off for XYZ reason. As Hermetic said, hooking up to an external charger while doing this is ideal, but I understand if situations don't allow. You can get some pretty high output power supplies too. I have zero experience nor recommendation for this product, but spec wise, something like this would be what you'd want. https://www.amazon.com/PowerMax-PM4-100A-Converter-Battery/dp/B01ER3LH5W Battery-wise: I don't mean to sound pedantic, but AGM batteries are lead-acid. There are 3 main general constructions, with 3 subsets: Flooded, AGM, and Gel. With the subsets being starting, mixed used, and deep-discharge. Flooded - most common battery. Pretty much the one you'll get if you walk into a store and go 'hey gimme a battery.' This has the lead plates immersed in a liquid electrolyte. These batteries often(though not always) have removable caps for adding electrolytes, and also must be mounted upright due to a spill hazard. - Pros: --- Cheap --- Readily available --- Somewhat more tolerant to over-charging or bad float voltages as you can top of the electrolyte with distilled water - Cons: --- Plate coatings can break off, essentially removing itself from the battery and reducing capacity --- Not tolerant to vibration --- Spill hazard --- Can freeze at very low temperatures and burst the casing / damage internally AGM - this takes the electrolyte from a flooded battery and puts it into a fiberglass sponge instead. Optima are probably the most common day-to-day example you'll see of this construction. - Pros: --- Better low temperature resistance - sponges aren't saturated, therefore a freeze has room for expansion --- Lower spill hazard (though not zero) --- Vibration resistant as the glass mats help secure the internal coatings in place --- Suited to high current draw situations - Cons: --- Less tolerant to over-charging as they typically don't have a means of servicing the electrolyte. I've done it before, but that really isn't the use case --- More expensive Gel - Uses silica to turn the electrolyte into a paste / jelly - Pros: --- Zero spill hazard under any condition. You typically see these in mobility scooters and whatnot. --- Stable for deep discharge use, potentially longer lifespan than other constructions for this purpose - Cons: --- Not tolerant to over-charging or high current use. At all. Subconstructions: - Starting: more, thinner plates to decrease internal resistance. Great current output, though less tolerant to deep discharge use as the plates will flake their coatings off more easily - Deep discharge: thicker, sturdier plates designed to handle the chemical stress of being drained from 100 to 0 and back again. Higher internal resistance, will incur more voltage drop under load. - Mixed use: in-between of these two construction types. Now for your isolator and light dimming: There are 2 main types of isolators. Active (solenoid) and passive (diode) A solenoid based isolator is basically a giant relay/switch that connects the contacts together when you turn the key on. This will offer the least resistance / voltage drop in the system. A diode based isolator uses a pair of high current diodes to prevent back-flow between 2 sets of batteries. Diodes will incur a 0.7v drop across them, along with any heat that will produce. 200 amps at 0.7v is 140 watts of heat that would need to be dealt with. Along with other concerns with respect to alternator control - 14v at the alternator will only be 13.3 at the battery. If your lights are dimming, that's a result of equipment being able to draw very sharp bursts of current that take you from alternator voltage ~14v, to battery voltage ~<13v. In either scenario, an isolator won't help you with the engine running. If the car is off, then it will, as your vehicles electrical system will be effectively separated from the draw. If you want to fix this, you have 2, maybe 4* options: 1*. Install a large capacitor as close to your starting battery as possible to smooth the voltage fluctuations. It'll still happen, just less noticeable 2. Run dual alternators. Stock alternator handles the vehicle's electrical. Second alternator handles your audio gear. You'd be running 2 discrete electrical systems in your vehicle. 3. Replace various bulbs with some sort of regulated unit - anything that has it's own power supply. Headlights for example could be retrofitted to HID or LED and there would be no dimming. Interior bulbs might take some researching, if such a thing even exists. Most are just 'dumb' units. You'd want to look for something that is explicitly non-dimmable 4*. Modify the wiring in your vehicle. Find which circuit handles interior lighting, and install a dc-dc buck regulator on that. Set the output to 11v or something lower than you'd drop voltage to, and let it compensate. tl;dr: - Generally speaking, you don't want to use an isolator unless you have an explicit need for one. Any isolator will add resistance and failure points to your circuit. - You should replace your starting battery with an AGM. Mixing battery constructions is a nono as AGM and Flooded will have different resting/float voltages, at ~13 and ~12.6 respectively. The flooded unit will incur a parasitic drain against your AGM when the vehicle is off.
    2 points
  31. Those subs are made by Jiaxing Jinlida Electron in China. Most of the decent subwoofer offerings these days are made by them, Dentaly Electronics, or Ningbo factory all located in China. Brands that come to mind that use these factories include but are not limited to are deaf bonce, massive, American bass, ct sounds, ground zero, DD, genius, skar, sundown, and the list goes on. For what they sell these for its not a bad deal at all. Is there better? Absolutely but for an 18” it will definitely cost more. Stick to the rated power and avoid clipping and they should last you a long time.
    2 points
  32. The master/slave selection switch is only used when you are strapping amps, hence why you only get signal out of the 1 amp and your slave has nothing since the 2 amps are not strapped together with the speaker wire grounds, and that rca going into your slave is a 180 degree out of phase signal. You can only strap amps in pairs unless you have some B2 amps (iirc) that allow you to strap multiples up to 3 I think but thats the only brand I ever seen that option. Either way strapping amps is not ideal since the amps are more prone to go into protect even if you are within all specs and don't wire below 2 ohms per pair of strapped amps. From my testing over the years from various brands and models of amps Ive always gotten more power out of the amps not strapped and they were a lot more stable not strapped even when wiring to crazy low impedances for spl purposes. I've even tried 3rd party products the the Maxxsonics MaxLink made for strapping any matching amps (even non strappable amps) and it was less than ideal as well. The RCA splitter box is your best bet which you already know by now, and volt match every amp so the output power is the same on each one.
    2 points
  33. T and S parameters for x12 v3 after a few months of abuse regular use.
    2 points
  34. Assuming you are running the SA12v2 at 2 ohm the SALT3 amp would deliver 1500W to the sub, if such is the case: With your port area of 30.25 square inches you would get about 25 m/s of vent airspeed in a [email protected] box which is acceptable. I think you are ok unless you were running the sub at 1 ohm, in that case you just limit the gain of the amp, worst thing that can happen is that the amp runs cooler. So again not a problem there either.
    2 points
  35. Some updates on the system finally. Just too much crazy to explain. So crazy it sounds like a movie. Such is life I guess. With the help of many people plus Tony D'Amore and Tony Candela of CE electric. I have been able to eliminate almost all turn off sounds. Hardly noticeable even turning the key off before the stereo. Ended up using 8 spdt 50/30 relays for all speakers and subs. They get warm at full tilt but have not tripped once. Being done afterwards it still looks pretty decent to me.
    2 points
  36. Okay !! Got everything set up and have been playing around with it for a couple days. Still have them on barely half power that they will get clean and they absolutely slam !! I will get some vids when I got them on full power and broke in. I gotta keep messing and learn the setup and see where I wanna go. Right now box is 6.3 net cubes 132 port area tuned at 36hz going to be testing this setup and then possibly try 108 port area at 33.5hz. I have to pull headliner out though immediately and put some thicc Deadener up there. May even leave headliner out or come up with something custom. I will see what it sounds like deadened and go from there. Then I can continue testing. Honestly I didn’t know what to expect, but I’m overall thrilled with the setup.
    2 points
  37. small update: got my amplifier OEM male plug delivered today - will need to take some time to transfer the old plugs to this new one, solder and shrink wrap the connections. Nice thing is the pins on the back are easy to bend so I can make them straight and then trim to connect. I’ll be shrink wrapping the 12V power and ground to ensure they don’t mess with anything if the plug shifts under the seat while driving. tomorrow is TUNING DAY! Hoping I can get it done in a few hours (half day) but as it is my first real tune I’ll be taking my time. Will document and let everyone know how it goes!
    2 points
  38. Please provide amp model, vehicle model and max dims for a box.
    2 points
  39. That was a good idea hiding it in that cubby space. You wouldn't even know it was there of you didn't know it was there!
    2 points
  40. found my way in. 2 12ga skyhigh caraudio OFC for the 6.5’s and 2 16ga for the 3” mids and 1.5” tweeters. Each pod is made of 3 layers of 3/4” HDPE and bolted to the door. Ill get to hear them soon after i wire up the top layer (speakers already mounted). Getting close!
    2 points
  41. No love lost with Ampere still always going to be a fan but this new 9k is doing work...I've gained 2 db on music alone clamping 35-4200 across the songs I've tested thus far and it's barely breaking a sweat...Also matches my 1200.4 so all is good
    2 points
  42. about to take our T-shirt shirt (and other garment) capabilities to the next level. Picked up this Ricoh 2000 (just arrived today). Its such a beast! We had to forklift it in
    2 points
  43. Not much progress last night but the box is properly sealed for sure - used construction sealant on all joints, and decided hell why not, let's do the front stacked baffle so that if any stack didn't have quite enough glue, it'll be sealed anyways. Used Sika construction sealant - full cure time 4-7 days, subs will not go in before then (ensure all off-gassing complete);
    2 points
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