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automediapro

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Posts posted by automediapro

  1. I have the big 3 done in a way. I have 2 gauge power form alt to batt, and 4 gauge for my grounds. I know not a lot of help but it did raise my voltage at an idle from 14.23 to 14.40. In about 2 weeks i'm getting some 0/1.

    I may upgrade my amp wire now since you said it may help out.

    If you're current battery under the hood is healthy and budget it tight .. I would add a XS Power D680 or 925 if your budget allows . . The 925 is capable of something like 2400amps. . put that close to most daily amps and you will be fine given you have SOLID connections / wiring. Even the D680 will support the amp you have in your sig

  2. taken from Car Electronic Basics

    Many people are under the impression that adding a second battery will cure their electrical problems. If one battery is good then two must be better. Right? Wrong. Remember that the function of a battery is to start the vehicle and to provide power when the vehicle is not running. The only thing a second battery will help you with is "parking lot" listening time. Basically it will provide you the additional capacity to run your stereo longer without starting the vehicle. After the vehicle is started the second battery becomes another load on an already overworked alternator.

    a guy over on the grandprix forums says that extra batteries do nothing. he says that any real stereo person will tell you the only way to help you electrical is to add a capacitor or a in his words a "1,000" amp alt. he told me that for my system which is at the very most 2,500 watts that i would need a 100 farad cap and that magical alt.

    Once you exceed the output capability of you alt, the batteries "kick in" and back it up. Now, if you continue to exceed the output of your alt, and drain your batteries. . agreed . . with this heavy of usage . . you need an alt. .

    But, if you give the alt time to get things charged back up . . then lay on it again . .you're good. And, from my experience, AGM batteries seems to come back a lot faster than flooded batteries ..

    It all depends on usage .. but a high output alt is never a bad thing.

  3. $299.99? also how is this compared to kinetiks hc2400 model?

    I've sold and used both brands.

    The Kinetik HC2400 is good for 1700W as a primary battery under the hood.

    and it is good for 2600W as a supplemental battery near the amps.

    The XS Power D3100 is good for about 4000W as a primary battery under the hood.

    and it is good for about 5000W+ as a supplemental battery near the amps.

    2+2=4 :rolleyes:

  4. Yes they are basically one and the same. A guy I was stationed with had 2 red tops under the hook of his expy. However, he had to remove the windshield wiper reservoir. I'll take a pic of under the hook tomorrow and hopefully you guys can give me some pointers. Hell 1 D3100 trumps both my yellow tops.

    I agree with Steve, of course ... you can never have enough reserve power. So, squeeze in what you can. But, if you have the common 6 cell group34 yellowtops now. . The D3400 is group 34 also, of course. So, it will take the place of the optima without any issues. It also happens to be the size that would fit with a little room to spair anway. So, you could drop it right in, and add another to the back to replace the other optima and be covered for about 6000watts or so combined. They are much stronger than the yellowtops.

    But, if you want to pack all that you can under the hood. . as long as you have another inch or so to spare in height you can run with the D2400 no issues. The D2700 will require that same additional height and another inch in length. . The D3100 would require two extra inches in length and the same additional inch in height.

    D3100 should be about 13"L x 7"W x 8.5"H (est.)

    What are you running for amps?

  5. For reference, the reverse post is because the posts are at one end of the top side of battery. You cant just flip it 180 if using stock length oem cables cuz they are not long enough to reach toward the firewall side where the posts would be if you flip the batt around. If the posts were in the middle from the factory, this wouldn't be an issue. This is why civics need reverse posts, I know cuz I have a civic. I thought that to back in the day when I tried it and it didn't work. If you have aftermarket cables, you prolly made em longer just for this reason and you wont have a problem with either battery. This is only for oem equipped vehicle cables.

    Well put

  6. Eventually wither one oe two Sundown SAZ1500's.

    And one 18" DC LV4.

    Or two if I can get that kind of money. :wub:

    Especially in my classified box design. :P

    So, you're all good with the one D2400 under the hood. And, when and if you do the second amp you could add a D925 in the rear which is capable of 2400amp bursts .. or 2000 watts of supplement. . Then you will be all good with a little overkill without killing your wallet for another big battery.

  7. ya. i have 2 runs of 1/0 (one + and one -) to the back and i have THE BIG 3 ran in 1/0. is that good or what els should i be doing?

    Bills

    Sounds GREAT! Hell, go for it. Good thing is, if you do ever need more in the back even the D925 is good for 2000 watts of supplement .. .so whatever. You should be more than good though anyway. Depends on how often and for how long you play at full tilt.

    Most of the time, you just can't run wide open for a long period of time anyway .. laws and all .. So, get a digital volt meter and tie it directly to your large amp. .keep an eye on it and if you are maintaining voltage don't sweat it. All depends on usage.

  8. Do you think i could get away with that and a Powermaster D2400 up frontand nothing in theback?

    Bills

    The D2400 is good for 2500 watts as the primary battery and 4000 watts as a supplement battery. So, If you're wiring and all is solid . . you will probably be just find with it under the hood for 3000watts or so max.

    You would have to squeeze the Kinetik HC2400 under the hood for the same coverage.

  9. the second row is 2 captain seats one is fiberglassed in my old console and one fiberglassed between the two captain seats and the other 4 are in as big of a box i could fit in the back.. you know you can have a loud system but just get tired of the same stuff.. painted my truck 3 times in the pass 6 months.. what kind of amp should i push them with i see alot of people with the solo x but not running kicker amp???

    Because Kicker wasn't really making anything big enough to push them all the way. Have you watched any of Steve's videos? 4 SoloX's done right will be up there with that! Now there is the WarHorse. . I don't know if it's for sale yet though.

    You need roughly 40,000 watts rms to push 4 of them to tilt!! Assuming you will strap 2 amps per sub, you need 8 amps capable of about 5000 watts each rms. Don't forget you will need several alternators and batteries.

    I have always found it more impressive to do more with less. That's just me. I would look into 4 15's . . serious 15's .. The airspace is more realistic. . Either Fi, RE, DD or something like that. I am a fan of Digital Designs myself. 4 of the 9515's with about 4 of the DD M3 amplifiers in the right box would be hard to take. . www.ddaudio.com

    But, when you're ballin out of control .. Nothing will ever be enough. . :blink:

  10. If you are leaving the 2nd row in, might as well just fire subs up port back. What are the 6 12's not doing right now that you want them to? Sometimes it's just a matter of the right box. How are they setup now?

    Correction . .the box is the least effecient part of any bass system . . so box box box ..

    But, if you are just looking to knock heads off, get the most you can afford and fit.

  11. I think anything that is about using the truth in advertising that has anything to do with 12volt is healthy!! I mean, we all know how specs really mean just about nothing because of the lack of standards. You know, they are available .. but those companies who claim 2400 watts is coming out of something with 40 amps of fuse .. lol Or, like these headunits that are 200 watts. . lol Seems they would get aweful hot with that small of heatsinks. . lol

    Whatever. . as long as it is aimed at the truth in advertising I'm for it!

  12. Nothing wrong with the MA's . . but they are not even on the same level as Solo X's .. You need to fill in alot more info though ..

    SPL? Music? Both? Power? Amps? Box? Vehicle? Competition? Bass Race or SPL Burps? What size X's?

    The real question is how much airspace/room do you have and what is the application? That will determine your woofers and the woofers will determine the power needed.

  13. ok im trying to run a RF t4k and probably a RF t8004 (maybe kicker 850.4) in my 2006 nissan maxima.

    electrical is going to be:

    200A EA alt.

    kinetik hc1400 upfront as starter

    i can do multi-runs of 2/0 wire, for big 3 also im pretty sure i can get it.

    and im looking either 2 d3100's or 2 d2700's in the trunk as well....

    daily setup, not really competition....just a hard street beater then i can play whenever and for however long i want, sometimes idle also.

    chose these over the kinetik 2400's :D hope i made the right choice :)

    HC2400 is good for about 2600 watts of supplement .. each

    D3100 is good for 4 to 5000+ watts each ..

    You've made a wise choice. There is a big difference in quality . .and look at the weights. There is simply more lead in the XS Power battery too!!

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