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sonic purity

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Everything posted by sonic purity

  1. First up is my Zapco AG360. Incredible SQ and very underrated. Amp is in good shape for its age. Looking for $200 plus shipping. OBO zapco specs: http://www.zapco.com/prod/pdf/ag360.pdf Stereo, 4 ohms: 4x50 Watts Stereo, 2 ohms: 4x90 Watts Bridged, 4 ohms: 2x180 Watts T.H.D. + Noise: 0.032% @ 4 ohms S/N Ratio: 95dB Slew Rate: 23V/uS Damping Factor: 160@ 4 ohms Second I have an Alpine MRV-F345 that I bought from a friend who never used it. I was going to use it for my truck but got a more powerful amp instead. I only hooked it up to make sure that it works. Looking to get $120 plus shipping OBO Alpine specs: • 4-channel car amplifier • 75 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (150 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms) • 300 watts RMS x 1 (channels 3/4 only) in bridged mode • Amp Link allows single cable connection for signal and control with compatible Alpine receivers • 2-, 3-, or 4-channel output • CEA-2006 compliant • Tri-way capable (Tri-Way crossover required) • variable low- and high-pass digital filters, 30-400 Hz or 600-8000 Hz at 12 dB/octave • bass boost (0-16 dB in 2 dB steps, centered at 45 Hz) • MOSFET power supply • STAR Topology (minimizes internal noise and prevents ground interference) • preamp-level inputs and outputs • oversized power and ground connections with gold-plated screw terminals • top mounted controls with cover • detachable front cover • blue power LED • requires 8-gauge power and ground leads — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier • dimensions: 13"W x 2-7/16"H x 9"D I have lots of references on this site and others. My ebay id is nvest4profit and I have 100% positive feedback.
  2. This is turning out to be a pretty good thread, very informative. Maybe it wasnt such a dumb question.
  3. One of the main reasons for the screws was, when trying to build a couple of boxes a day. you dont have time to let glues dry or silicon fumes air out before getting the carpet or vinyl on it and mounting the sub so it can get into the customer vehicle. But now that the only boxes I build are for my own vehicles, I can take my time
  4. yea, I wish they had these forums when I had my business. Alot of what I did was trial and error. It would have helped to have all of this knowledge at my fingertips.
  5. I can say that I never had a box fail on me in 10 years. I usually overbuilt them.
  6. I always used the wood glue and liquid nails to form a tight seal more than rely on it for strength. I actually started out using clear silicon till I found out the fumes can errode the surround on the subs.
  7. I owned a car audio shop for about 10 years, but I closed down about 6 years ago. All of the sub boxes that I built I used wood screws and liquid nails or wood glue. I have seen a few boxes on here that seem to be held together with just wood glue and no screws. Will a sub box hold up to the pressure if you dont use wood screws to anchor it down? Or is everyone using wood screws and I just cant tell from the pics.
  8. Or, turn the center console into a sub box. (if you have a center console)
  9. the JL 10w1's should work also.
  10. I have a super crew, same year and I put a pair of tens under the rear seat. I would recommend the sundown sd1's cause the mounting depth is only about 4.5 inches. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=17667 Works great for Rock music, but doesnt really have the hang time for some Rap songs.
  11. does the amp have a phase switch on it?
  12. try hooking both amps up and switching the positve and negative speaker lead on one of them.
  13. Thats true, didnt think about that. Give them a chance to loosen up, if they are brand new.
  14. try turning off each amp and running just one to see if there is any difference in output.
  15. did you double check that none of the coils were out of phase. Still think you need more power than that.
  16. I think you will need more power than those cerwin vegas. Just my two cents
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