Jared420
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Posts posted by Jared420
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Check the condensate pump if you have One where the indoor ad coil drains to. If this pump failed some are wired in line with your thermostat to not turn on so you don't leak all over the place
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Level 4 12 to 01469
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Everyone's human people make mistakes, I'd judge them on how they correct the problem and make it up to you. Give them a chance before u go bashing. No vendor or nobody for that matter is perfect 100% of the time.
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ive had both 6 and 8k in my sierra but i do have projectors and i like my 8ks alot better than i did my 6s.
So did you buy projectors something like the link I just posted then junk the lights that setup comes with and buy a separate hid kit?
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Just for the hell of it I was looking at these , http://www.carid.com/2012-chevy-silverado-headlights/spyder-ccfl-halo-led-projector-headlights-439828.html Are HIDs included with this or just led lights? I'm not sure of the difference cuz people on the reviews are saying brighter white or blueish light these HIDs are great stuff like that so I'm confused
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I know it would optimize them if I get projectors but it will still be brighter and a white clean light rather than yellow. It would look better but not the best it could.
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Cool thanks man I appreciate the info
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So the 35 w is more reliable? And is 6000k brighter than 8000k just less blue? I probably won't be replacing the housing I really like everything about my stock lights if I change them it will be a couple years down the road probably
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I just started doing my research on HIDs for my silverado and I don't know what I should go with for the brightness/color. 6000k or 8000k . Can someone tell me the difference? I was on simplyhidkits.com and they have a sample of a car you click the settings and it's supposed to show u what it looks light but the 8k looked less bright but like a cleaner light if that makes sense. What brands are reputable where are good places to order from and how much should I expect to pay for some decent kits?
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1500 to 2000 IF you noticed any difference it would be a very small one. I'd be surprised if you could even hear anything noticable though. And unless your friend is planning on backing up those 2000 watts with a good electrical system then there will be no difference at all. 1500 watts is pushin it on stock electrical
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from my experience never had a problem switching back and forth between conventional and synthetic..... my car has 124k on it and have switched back and forth 2 times due to money issues LOL..... never had a problem with leaking BUT did notice when you switch from conv. to synth BACK to conv. oil it gets black quick.....like in 2000 miles..... my car usually can go 3000 and just barely be dark on conventional..... synthetic i can go like 6k til it starts turning dark.
synthetic is the way to go..... way better IMHO
EDIT: last oil change was with royal purple 10w30 synthetic and will never buy it again..... lasted 3k and BLACK as all hell not worth the money at all.....$10/ quart @ 5 quarts + $25 for RP filter= lotza money for "great" oil and a not so happy customer.....
It doesn't matter if the oils black. Royal purple starts off dark purple. Easier to turn black. As long as the oil doesn't break down and get sludgey
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Nice car man very clean tint will look great
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Just gonna throw it ur there, ac is not moisture in the air. Air conditioning also "dehumidifies" it dries out the air. The concept of ac is not pushing "cold" air it actually removes or absorbes heat from the air. If you had very cold air blowing directly onto a warm or hot metal surface that mixture could form condensation.
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Nobody has any thoughts on Obama bending rules for his illegal family members in our country taking welfare after never payin a cent in taxes and having drivers licenses and drunk driving getting into accidents?
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Obama sucks and he's using his power to keep his illegal family members in my state of mass so I can keep paying taxes for their welfare when they have been publicly exposed as ILLEGAL aliens. But yet they collect welfare and his uncle is getting his license back after causing a bad accident and being arrested for DUI but somehow gets off and gets his license back.....he is an illegal alien someone please explain this
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Either way they both suck but I'm ready for a change from obama
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I would think about maybe a dc audio level 4 12 on a dc 1.2k amp possibly an Audioque 1200. That should leave you with money for your wire a good box, better or second battery you should be able to run either of those amps with the big 3 and a good battery. Trucks have over 100 amp stock alternators, not sure about 94s but my 06 and my 2012 silverados both have 140amp stock alts. If you replace your stock battery with a beefier one or add a second good battery you probably won't even need to upgrade your alternator.
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If you can't get 400 for it try and get like 3fiddy and pay the small difference grab an Audioque or soundquebed whatever the hell they are called now 2200 or if you have a few extra bucks 3500. But since your stepping up power to I'm guessing you want somewhere around 2000 rms are you beefing up your electrical?
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Could I get a pm with possible upgrades I could recone my 3 level 3 10s to? I have th level 4 softparts in them but I'm interested in a re enforced surround maybe direct leads or maybe a stiff spider. Could I get prices for 3 recones (not kits) my zip is 01469
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Yeah I know there's wouldn't be a gain on the Bose factory amps. That's why I was looking into a processor. I didn't want the headache of replacing amps either. I just got my jl line driver today so I'll pop it in this weekend and see how it sounds, thing was only 50 bucks so this is what I'll try first.
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Any opinions on that jl module? Should that be a better way to split rcas and put out stronger signals?
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Would somethin like this solve my issue seems cheap and easy one RCA in and 2 out would the 2 out put out somewhat of an amplified signal?http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_15363_JL-Audio-CL-RLC.htm
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It seems like you r trying to spend more money than you need to to solve a symptom when just buying a new 4 channel amp will solve the problem entirely
Just my .02 but if you want a processor I would look into a RF 3sixty.2
Because the Bose speakers aren't just running off a 4 channel amp. I have no idea how they are powered. Like I said there are no actual rcas that go from headunit to an amp, the rcas are part of the wiring harness. I don't even know where the "factory amp or amps" are I was just thinking that rather then buying a 4 channel looking for a place to put it and run new wires to all the speakers, I could just get a little processor that I can take one RCA out from the headunit and go into the processor and then have 2-3-4 outs from the processor that each give out 2-4 volt signal. Rather than a 2 volt signal split. Since that's all I'm really trying to achieve I don't need to spend a ton of money on a crazy eq. I don't care how many options it has or adjustments. I just want a stronger RCA signal. And I don't want to blow the Bose speakers by trying to give them more power than they can handle
HVAC workers need your help again. 100 deg and I have nothing :(
in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"
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We can go through a few things if you want. If nothing is happening power is killed somewhere wether it be low voltage from the thermostat to the unit or the 120 to your furnace