Jared420

Nice truck Steve. The new Fords are very nice. I'll be tuned in for sure to see what you end up doing with this thing.

Whose got nhl 15 on the 1? What's your gamer tag and let's play some games.

Not a fan of madden anymore I feel like it's been getting worse since 2008. I'll end up trading in madden 15 for nhl 15 in a few weeks. I agree 15 is better than 25 but it doesn't play well although some movements and physics in the game are more life like.

I'll be getting the xb1 soon. Well have to do some head to head madden and nhl. Already got you on my friends list, played some cod with you a while back

What are you workin on right now? You need a hand with anything?

Nice truck for your son man. He must be lovin it. I would have shit myself if that was my first car! The plasti dip on the rims looks great and I'm tuned in to see whatever you and the boy decide to do to that truck.

If you have a 160 amp alternator, what are you running for batteries? A3500 is gonna take some power.

I ran my 0 gauge along the frame cover it with wire loom to be safe and stay away from movable parts and things theat get hot like exhausts. I got some firewall bushings with rubber seals and came up through my floor behind the seat of my ext cab. I also siliconed the bushings and seals just as added security and weather proofing. Use common sense and you'll be fine. Your stock wiring for your rear lights and such are under your car along the frame so why not run your audio power wire under there. I wouldn't recommend not using wire loom or some kind of durable protection other than the wire jacket itself.

240a or better alt plus another battery or a big a$$ batt like the 3100 I had 2 aq 2200s at 2 ohm on my 240 a and stock battery plus a yellow top and I was always above 13 volts driving , parked at idle I'd drop to 12.7

Cool, a pair of dc level 4 10s will eat up just about his whole budget. And a 300 watt amp... To the OP if your trying to get LOUD you simply need a bigger budget. If you want to improve for short money, at least make the most of what you have, get a more powerful amp and if the L5 doesn't do it for you then you already have more power to work with try a different sub or subs.

Better box and give that l5 a clean 5-600 watts should get a decent gain. I don't know exactly how much more you want. Unless you can sell your that sub and amp to make your budget more than 500, try box and more power

I had one on my old truck worked great. I don't know what else is out there comparable but I was very happy with mine. I live in massachusetts so when I went on vaca in florida I tested it out and had a buddy on the phone standing next to my truck and I unlocked, locked , started and turned off my truck in mass from Orlando Florida. I like how it sends you a confirmation message whenever a command has been performed.

They should take it, I had 4 15" rs on around 5k a couple years ago. They took it fine but the amp didn't hold up at .5 so then I had them on aq2200s strapped did fine on that too.

I personally wouldn't lower it anymore than it is now. I don't like lifted truck at all though. Unless you are really using it to offload. So many people around me have lifted trucks and mud tires to be a daily driver.... Drives me nuts, trucks that will never see dirt. With that truck 22s would look great at that height its at. 22s tint and system, and exhausts if it doesn't already have it.

Yeah liquid nails is fine. I personally prefer wood glue or wood glue and sawdust mixed. My current box is part wood part fiberglass so since I had the glass all ready for use after the box was complete I painted all the seams with resin for extra strength and to make sure it's sealed up.

Running 2 amps would change his final ohm load , 2 subs for 1 amp he'd have to wire each set to 2 ohms. Or risk strapping them if they are able to be strapped and keeping the final load at 1 ohm which means each amps at .5

U may want to check for shorts if the transformer went though. Common place is the low voltage out in the condenser outside. Mice and critters strip the wires and stuff like that.

Nice well hopefully some of my rambling helped you out

Yeah there should be a safety switch on the door of the blower compartment to make sure the doors all the way on. You can check the door and then take it off and thre should just be 2 wires on the back (obviously its a switch) just jump then together The switch is behind the door u will only see it if you take the bottom door off

In that first pic, that thing you cut off on the right could have a white button on it for your fan u can push it in or pull it out slightly I think pushing it in puts your fan on auto pullingn it out should put it on manual try that see if that fan even comes on then

Hah Yah that's an oldie. Could very possibly be the transformer. If you got 120 into the unit nd into the transformer and nothingsnhappening that's probably what it is. If that mess of wires makes any sense to u try n see if it's putting out 24v

Open up the bottom of the furnace and take me a pic of the control board, like I said could be the fuse if not I can probably point out the transformer for your low voltage and you can test it out see if your gettin 120v in nd 24v out

Also could be a small fuse on the control boad inside the furnace. If you have one of those check the fuse.

To rule out the thermostat pull the face off the wall and use a little jumper wire if you have a small wire with alligator clips jump from R terminal to G and the blower fan should turn on R to Y will turn your ac on if nothing happens when you do that it's either the condensation pump cutting low voltage out not sending the signal to the unit or there is no high voltage there

What do you have for equipment there, what brand is the furnace or air handler? Is it in the basement or attic ?and is it your heating furnace with an ac coil on top or just an air handler? Any info helps