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Jared420

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Posts posted by Jared420

  1. i dont think that the amp can take a 2ohm load when bridged, which is what happens when you wire the subs in parallel/bridged, which is why the fuses keep blowing,wiring in series wont help it either.

    i thought that bridged it would be a 4 ohm load ... i dont really understand much about ohms can someone give me some basics about this . i was pretty sure my sub is a 4 ohm sub and my amp manual says it can be bridged at 4 ohms and get 460 watts rms

  2. x2 on the ohm problem, if u have the manual for it, check 2 make sure your amp is bridgeable...some arent....also check to see what the ohm load can be on bridge mode...many amps can only handle safely a 4 ohm load bridged...i hope that helps a little...

    yea i have the manual it says 460 watt rms bridged @ 4 ohms

    230 X 2 @ 2 ohms

    150 X 2 @ 4 ohms

    says it can be bridged

  3. actually what are those red wires on there for? thats your prob. you dont need those

    nah in the first picture the blue wires are how its wired now

    the red wires i put on to ask if that would be a better way to wire them and then someone told me to series wire it and i made the 2nd picture cuz i wasnt sure if that was series or not. but in the first pic the blue wires are how my sub is hooked up but when i bridge it to the amp the fuse blows

  4. not sure about your sub but your amp might not be able to handle the ohm load. if you did bridge it like you did in the red, still don't think it will. might wanna just wire in series and see what happens.

    is this series wiring?

    post-1082-1176769338_thumb.jpg

  5. another thing im not sure if it has anything to do with it but ive seen many subs wired differently than mine. on the subwoofer itself my friend who had this sub before me ran a wire from each connection from the sub. i have seen i think its called paralell wiring which goes from negative to negative on the sub to neg on the amp n + to + on the sub to the + on the amp. i didnt know if the wiring on that part of the sub could be messing with the power load and blowing my fuse

    the blue wires show how my sub is currently wired and works . if i take the same setup as the blue and bridge the connection on the amp the fuse blows... could changing the setup to the red wiring have a different affect. what are the differences?

    post-1082-1176768064_thumb.jpg

  6. possibly yeah.

    Some amps just can't handle it, its trying to draw way too much current. maybe someone can answer your question more thoroughly

    another thing im not sure if it has anything to do with it but ive seen many subs wired differently than mine. on the subwoofer itself my friend who had this sub before me ran a wire from each connection from the sub. i have seen i think its called paralell wiring which goes from negative to negative on the sub to neg on the amp n + to + on the sub to the + on the amp. i didnt know if the wiring on that part of the sub could be messing with the power load and blowing my fuse

  7. amp cant handle it bridged probally. When i had my old Crunch amp if i were to bridge it, it would go through fuses like a little kid eating candy.

    so whats that mean the amp cant handle it ... the amp cant put out the wattage the sub is calling for? basically i need a much more powerful amp?

  8. ok i hooked up my 15 by itself to my amp and after a few mins the fuse blew. my 15 has 4 wires, one coming off each connnection from the sub and coming out of the box when i hook up each of the 4 wires to all 4 connections on the amp it runs fine but it bumps harder when i take the 2 + and the 2 - and hook them up in the bridged slots, but it blows the fuse... im wondering what causes the fuse to be blown and why does it only blow when i have the channels bridged?

    15'' eclipse aluminum sub

    kenwood kac 7202 amp says 920 max watts and 460 bridged at 4 ohms

  9. If you can't get the set sold, would you possibly take 110 shipped for the subs and box? If not, give me a price, I'm really interested in them.

    i dont think id go as low as 110 because right now im guessing the box and subs weigh about 20 pounds and the shipping would be about 20 bucks id like to get more than 90 for the subs and box. ill get back to u in a day or 2 for sure because ill take the 10s out and have it all weighed so i can get a definite shipping price. for now i mean id like to get about 130 for the subs and box + the shipping so maybe 150 but like i said ill get back to u soon when i weigh it out.

  10. for the amp alone id like to get about 150 for it alone because im trying to sell this as a set id let the boxed subs, and amp go for around 250 all together.

    The cvrs are 800 watt max 400 continuous. ill have to get back to you tomorrow on the shipping prices. any more questions from anyone feel free to contact me through email [email protected]

    sorry bout that the subs are 600 watt max and 300 rms

    also shipping to 65664 would be about 15-20$ for the subs AND box

  11. whats the prive on the amp..?

    for the amp alone id like to get about 150 for it alone because im trying to sell this as a set id let the boxed subs, and amp go for around 250 all together.

    The cvrs are 800 watt max 400 continuous. ill have to get back to you tomorrow on the shipping prices. any more questions from anyone feel free to contact me through email [email protected]

  12. anyone interested in buying 2 10'' kicker comp vr's they are only a few months old i got them for xmas and have had them in since the end of january im selling them because i am currently running them with my 15" eclipse and after gettin some great advice from the forum ive decided to get rid of the 10's due to cancellation in frequencies. the subs are in excellent condition. i will sell the subs with or without the box... its a regular black carpeted dual 10 box nothing special. also available is my kenwood 2 ch 920 watt amp which i also just got for xmas and has only been used the past couple months as well. the pair of 10's cost $220 on sale, the box cost $80 and the amp cost $200 but im just tryin to get rid of them becuase i am planning on gettin a better amp and a ported box for my 15, so i would be very generous with pricing. anyone interested hit me back or email me at [email protected] if you would like some more info about something let me know
  13. anyone interested in buying 2 10'' kicker comp vr's they are only a few months old i got them for xmas and have had them in since the end of january im selling them because i am currently running them with my 15" eclipse and after gettin some great advice from the forum ive decided to get rid of the 10's due to cancellation in frequencies. the subs are in excellent condition. i will sell the subs with or without the box... its a regular black carpeted dual 10 box nothing special. also available is my kenwood 2 ch 920 watt amp which i also just got for xmas and has only been used the past couple months as well. the pair of 10's cost $220 on sale, the box cost $80 and the amp cost $200 but im just tryin to get rid of them becuase i am planning on gettin a better amp and a ported box for my 15, so i would be very generous with pricing. anyone interested hit me back or email me at [email protected] if you would like some more info about something let me know

  14. id get rid of 1 of the size. either the 10s or the 15. thats just me. id probally just run a single 15 just cause a 15 pushes a bit more air.

    i bet my single 12 is louder than your 10s and 15 combined :grin:

    I def believe u saying that ur one 12 is louder than my shit. u clearly know far more about car audio than i ever will. thanks for all the advice, one more final question tho... say i ditch the 10's keep the 15''.... the 15'' is from eclipse audio its the aluminum series, im pretty sure the specs are 1000 watt continuous and 1500 max... i have it in a regular box enclosure facing up in my trunk and i have my 1000 watt 2 ch kenwood amp... so keeping the 15 what improvements would u make upon that to make it absolutly slam? different amps, ported box? basically what could i do to the 15 to make it slam closer or to its full potential?

  15. sounds like this is a subwoofer topic.

    let me try to help.

    Don't mix subs if you don't know how to. Even the the most intelligent of car audio enthusiast have a hard time tuning them right. You probably have never seen any SQ competitor using different size subs. there really is no need to it. You can make it with a single 12 or a single 15 if u need that low low notes.

    alrite so i understand it wasnt my best choice to mix subs.. however if i intend to keep this setup for a while how could i make the most of the situation. im not looking to enter any bass competitions or anything like that i am simply tryin to be louder than all my buddies. im winning so far but basically im just looking to improve a little. i was thinkin of getting a second amp ad running 1 amp to the 10s 1 amp to the 15, and possibly looking into ported boxes,... i guess im asking if u were stuck in my situation with mixed subwoofers and one amp what would u do to try to make the best out of this setup?

  16. so is this topic about subwoofers?

    not really i am just tryin to gain some knowledge about what i have in my trunk and since u guys are the experts i figured u guys can help with some of my questions and clear up some things i dont fully understand about sound systems

  17. Well if you want to keep all three subs then yes get another amp and a large cap or a cap killer from kinetik (small but powerful battery)

    im just wondering too ... i understand different subs put out different frequency sound waves and stuff but i dont really understand the whole concept of canceling eachother out . when i think about it i would just naturally think more cone space = more air movement therefore more bass.. why isnt that so?

  18. and is this louder to the ear or metered? if you want advice on improving ur "system" then listen to the folks here. they are very educated in the ways of car audio (most of em) if your gonna post some stuff up and then say you like it the way it is then do what you do!

    well no i was just wondering what would be the best choice run another amp and get a cap? or something different

  19. well depending on the impedance of your subs and what the lowest impedance of your amp is capable of, I would ditch the tens or the 15 but I would never use two different size sub much less type.

    well i have tried running just the 15 and just the 10s with the amp, the 15 alone is loud, the 10s alone sound ok, but together they really are much louder.

  20. alright so right now i have 2 10'' kicker cvr's and 1 15'' eclipse aluminum series. im runnin them off one kenwood 1000 watt 2 ch amp. I read some of the posts about mixing sub sizes and most sounded pretty skepticle about it but i have been pretty satisfied with it. i blow all my friends systems out easily. I have regular boxes the 10's are in a dual box but each sub has its own chamber. I would like to get some suggestions about how to improve my system and what would be the best choices?

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