finkster
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Posts posted by finkster
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we could have answered this in your other thread instead of making a new one...
a HU is a HU. it needs power, ground, remote turn on, and a signal out. just hook it up the same as if you would on the dash. its the same shit.
Skittles is correct.
Why I suggested running the wiring from up front to the back in parallel is so you can keep the stock speaker wiring. Unless you can find a way to run the new head unit as a an input to the stock one.
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Maryland represent woot woot.
But yea try and get another run in there if you can, but it's fine to ground to the chassis if you cant fit another one.
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What you would have to do is splice into the stock wiring and run the aftermarket wiring in parallel and run it to the trunk.
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fuck i want one
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you forgot purple orange and green
feg
I just busted out laughing in a doctors office.
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dude omg I never thought of that. I have a lil bit left now too and I may just have to go outside and do that shit LMAO. the hood of my lawnmower sounds horrible now.
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DC level 4 xl likes that kind of power. Should be less than 450 also.
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its not just the size of the wire, its how long it is. a couple feet of 4awg can take 2000w but a full 15ft run wont. do yourself a favor and go to bcae1.com click on "wire" on the right. i think its number 17. itll tell you everything you need to know.
but in the game of overkill, as you put it, a lot of companies do use 1/0 inputs. others use 4awg. probably because they know these are not amps for competition. they will get music and as we all know, music is dynamic. 90% of the time the amp wont be pulling its max current so 1/0 is especially not needed.
but another plus side to bigger wire is; its made of copper. copper stores electricity. having more copper acts like a little capacitor. just a little more burst energy to help run the system.
x2 on bcae. between them and diyma virtually every topic and question is covered.
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how about just use the wire the freaking amp uses and stop worrying about it? 4 gauge can handle up to about 140-150 amps which is about 1500rms. 0 gauge can handle up to about 300-350 amps which is about 3500rms. no way can 4 gauge handle 2000w. thats "max" which isnt even useful as a number since its made up.
Have you ever heard of voltage drop?
At higher volumes there would be over .5 volts drop on a run of 4 gauge at 15 feet.
I dunno about you but I would run 0 gauge and then run a reducer so i would only then have .2 volts drop.
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Before you go getting all this stuff you need to figure out how much power you will be running.
If two batteries would suffice without having too much voltage drop then you just wire them in parallel. Positive to positive. Negative to negative.
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What kind and how many batteries do you have?
Also what size wire do you have to connect them with?
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The short answer is....maybe haha. Again it depends on every angle up front. There are some guys who use deflection to their advantage but that is usually for better sound imaging rather than trying to tone the tweeters down.
If you can, slap those angled brackets on there and play around with the different positions and see what you come up with.
Edit: Its doomguy from the original doom. If you're referring to the same thing.
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ill be running these to a channel on my zx200.4 so they will be seeing around 50rms.... i figured id just slap em on the A pillars and flush mount them... but they do also come with angle mounts and surface mounts(which i wont use)..... i could angle them towards the driver and passenger seats or windshield with the angle mounts... but going by what finkster said... ill proble just fire them towards each other.....
this isnt an sq vehicle at all.. its a budget ground pounder... but i do like to listen to rock/metal when on road trips....as far as highs ill be running a Zx200.4 to
1 set of DS 6.5 coaxes in the back dash
1 set of DS 6.5 coaxes in the stock location at the bottom of the doors
1 set of Ks 4" coaxes in the back seat side panels
1 set of KS13 tweets(placement in question)
Im just adding the KS line of speakers to help the highs keep up with the 145+db bass
Im glad to help but make sure they sound good there before you go and do all that work for nothing. Remember all cars are different. Peace.
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Dude those lights are super pricey. Most of the ones I've seen at fire expos that were decent were around like 400 bucks. Start saving up.
http://www.firestoreonline.com/vehicleaccessories.aspx
On a side note, can you ride yet?
Edit: Also read up on your local laws about displaying them on your car. I never had one and would just haul ass to the firehouse (if it was safe of course)....oh shit...you guys may be allowed to respond to the scene in your own vehicles...forgot about that...
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There is no real answer unless you know am SQ guy who knows your car inside and out. And even then he may or may not know the best position because people are different heights, and therefore is either sitting closer of farther away from the dash.
Best advise I can give is to sit in your car how you normally drive and roll the windows all the way up. Then using double sided tape or velcro, mount the tweeters anywhere manageable and take a listen. Even though you will have exposed wires for a little while, it will be well worth it in the end knowing the tweeters sound how you want.
A general rule is to mount the tweeters a couple inches higher than the highest point of the dash (if you're mounting them in the a pillars). Many people get good results firing the tweeters directly at each other. Others use deflection to their advantage but thats hit or miss in each car.
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what did you set the voltage at?
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Correct, the amp already has its own fuse(s).
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is it that BIG ASS crossfire sub that looks like the smd?
pls say yes?
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Not to mention the current draw from being wired that low in the first place and the heat generated....
Many other things im wondering too lol....well consider it a lesson learned I guess?
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The problem with circuit breakers is that they wear out over time, and the connection gets worse. They also take more time to blow (or "open") than a regular fuse/ The point is that fuses shouldnt be blowing anyways unless you are doing something wrong, so if you are doing things right you shouldnt have to worry about changing them anyways.
My vote goes to the fuse
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off topic, but i am very happy yall got Black Jack tables now in Ctown...
woot
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no reason to shoot down the question.
To even consider it I would run a beefy alt, 2 nice batts and an amp willing to produce power cleanly at the rate you're talking about. I would also build a box to spec and take my time doing so. Also, making sure you dont clip is a must so using an o scope is a must. those are just a couple things to consider. There is no magic recipe.
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All major producers have nice systems in the studios, whether it's gospel music or rap. Although it may not be intentional to have bass in songs, they definitely hear it in the studio and will fix as they see need.
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just buy an amp that does at least 2k at 2 ohms. whats the problem here. oyeaimdrunkbtw
holy corrosion batman!
in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
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petroleum jelly. its not just for fapping.