Jump to content

Matt Young

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    21

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by Matt Young

  1. Voltage Problems

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    this happens with HO alts, they produce alot of power once engaged, and dont turn on usually until under a load or at 800-1000rpm

    so at idle, it should read 12.8ish, and with car off it should be right around there to

    so test voltage when someone has the throttle enganged, it should read up to almost 15 volts at 2000+ rpm

    that will let you know if its the alt because if its producing plenty of power once enganged the problem is that the regultator is off until a load is present... which techincally isnt a problem, more of an annoyance

    ive rarely seen a battery sit at 13.4 unless it was on a charger on "float," remember they are 12v batts, so batts shouls sit from 12-12.9 since theres and extra .1 -.2v extra per cell produced

    so ideally

    car off bat should say 12.8

    car on, at idle, should be low 13 if not still 12.8

    throttle engaged should be 14.4ish

    full tilt with throttle engaged at ~2000rpm should be above 13 with the upgrades u have

    this happens with EA alts also

    The above description is pretty correct. The main reason why the voltae is low at idle. is because at that RPM a high output alternator usually doesn't put out much amperage. Bring the RPMs on the motor up and see if the voltage comes up.

    You can tell if the belt is slipping by carefully feeling the temerature of the alternator pulley after the vehicle has been running for a while under a heavy electrical load. If the alternator pulley is noticibly hotter than the rest of the alternator, or if it looks discollored or black on the belt contact area, you have a belt slip problem.

    Changing the oil has ABSOLUTELY nothing to do with an alternator or belt slip problem.

  3. Alt Help.....

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    add some Kinetik or Powermaster batteries (several) for storage and keep it on a battery charger for 24 hours before a competition to make sure the batteries are topped off. Even with little to charge them they will produce enough current for you at the competition.

    There is no way you can get much more out of the stock sized alternator. An "overwound" alt in the stock case will actually have less output at idle.

    Adding more batteries will decrease the amount of voltage drop under a load. You will have to be mindfull of keeping them charged up with your intellicharger, other wise that little alt. will smoke itself trying to keep them charged. You could also put an overdrive pulley on the alternator to boost the idle output a little bit.

  7. Running Different Batteries

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    MLA, I've been saying that for the longest. Some people don't look to see where their factory ground is connected to. IMO, ground is ground is ground is ground. as long as you upgrade the stock wiring there's no need to run a wire all the way from the front battery to the back battery.

    Grounding to the chassis will work, but depending on the current draw, a copper 0 gauge cable could be a better conductor. Unless you are competing, I wouldn't worry about it.

    BTW, it is OK to mix battery types, and it won't be any harder on the alternator than adding an extra battery of any other type.

  10. Electrical Help

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    a nice high output alternator whatever your funds can get would be helpful make sure you have some batts in the back maybe a hc2400 and 1/0 wire you should be set. you dont need anything insane for that hifonics amp but better to be safe than sorry.

    A D2400 or larger in the trunk and a 200 amp alternator with good idle output. Let me know if you would like a price quote on the battery and alternator.

    [email protected]

×
×
  • Create New...