RamenNoodles

475oz magnet...jesus.

You should just go with 26s. I think they look the best on SUVs. THey look nice and snug. 28s are just a little over the top. Almost like a donkey kong thing.

Nice trucks guys. Both are killer. Good to hear your mom is doing well Steve. Im sure you visiting her definitely helps her morale and recoop time. dimes, how close to finished is your truck. I noticed you had a black front bumper and the primered bed top. Not sure if you are leaving the bumper that color but I would assume you will be painting the bed cover. Other than those two things, what else has to be done?

How close to Shepherdstown, WV are you?

I had the same amp before. When I got the red light, it was after three hours of straight bumpin music and overheated. I had to just let the thing cool off and worked after that.

Ah, no good. Looks like I will be sticking to just a 12v system for now in the accord. I think with this new layout, i will be alright amperage wise anyways.

So as far as alternator, would the HO Iraggi 200 amp work just fine? And as far as batteries, the PowerMaster XS Power 1000's 16v like 2 of them in the trunk? and one under the hood as well. Everything like lights and accessories will still work fine correct with the 16v upgrade?

Changed the box and all is awesome now. And the amp can handle whatever you can throw at it. Tests show it handles around 4900RMS at around 17volts. Right now it is doing about 2800rms with what I have. How would I convert my setup into a 16volt system so I can get more out of my amp?

Ok, well I got the box turned so its firing towards the tail and all I can say now is WOW. MUCH BETTER improvement. Its definitely up or even more as far as output compared to the w6s. All of the notes are was more developed compared to before. And thanks all for helping me with this. I still need some tuning and tweaking to get things to where they should be but for now, its working and making a bottoming out sound now. And trust me, I really want to get a HO alt with big3 and 2 kinetik HC2000 but right now in college, money is scarce. Cant exactly tell the govt that im using student loans for car audio lol. Mid may I will be out and working full time and will get the above ASAP. So until then, I try and keep the sub low and above 13volts. ( i have a volt gauge so I can keep and eye on it)

Not to sound like and idiot, but how would I go about testing he coil and what is DMM?

Lol, hey, I said rough! It was just in MS Paint. But, since everything looks right, should I try and talk to scott to see whats up.

This is a ROUGH drawing of how shit is wired, any questions ask me and i will explain.

A guy over on *** said that maybe I have a bad coil and to call scott to see whats up.

Fi calls for a box that is anywhere from 1.75-3 cuft. And this is about 3 cuft.

Well the sub is wired to 1 Ohm. I have stock electrical besides an optima red top. I have a tsunami wiring kit 1/0awg. All in a 2000 accord coupe with the sub and port facing toward the cabin. These are the builders specs. Ok, here is the design for you. 14.5"H x 24"W x 24"D, 3.809^3ft gross vol. Slot port, 13" x 3" x 27.8"Long@35Hz. After all displacement, 2.833^3ft net yield. Built from 3/4" Hi-Composite Premium UDF board. Seams matched and double sealed. Reinforced baffle board. Dado cut end caps. Seams fastened with Tite Bond glue, 1-5/8" counter sunk drywall screws, and 2" Ribbed steel fasteners. Walls fully braced and tied in with Maranti Hardwood bracing for Zero wall flex and 100% cabinet integrity. 45 degree boards in the corners to kill standing sound waves and to add extra strength to the corner seams. All internal port edges are beveled. High Quality, Gold plated binding post with nylon heads. Gray Muzicon carpet. White baffle board. Port painted black And this is NOT a TermLab so its not exactly term lab numbers, I think it runs a little high.

Hey all, Today I just got my 12" BTL and my Crunch GP3000D along with my custom box and I installed everything today and to be honest I am not impressed with this subwoofer at all. Like when the subwoofer hits, it sounds like it is bottoming out and I dont understand why. I use to have 2 12w6v2s to a JL 1000/1 and it was hitting WAY harder than my 12" BTL. I just met my friend who I sold my w6s to and he was running them to a Kenwood amp pushing 600rms to them and they were slamming compared to my BTL. I just am not impressed with the performance of the BTL at all. It cannot pick up anything high at all. I know it is a SPL sub, but I have read tons and tons of peoples reviews saying that it actually had decent clarity. I used my dB meter that I have and my best on the 12w6v2s was 147 no sound deadening whatsoever. Now I have my whole trunk competed in FatMat in 1 layer and 2 layer on my trunk. I did a test today and the best I got was 135 WTF?? Does anybody have any idea what is going on?

Does this kid even understand the concept of a bass race? And how would you meter it?

Wow, thats pretty intense for just 1 15"

Hey finkster, where in Mount Airey do you live? I live right in Westminster and I pass through Mount Airey when I come back on the weekends from college and also when I head back. I pass right through there on my way to 70. How close to there do you live? Like near the BK and Starbucks etc.

At least you dont use bumpers

Ha, I have seen that special on Comedy Central. Its definitely up there with one of the best I have seen.