loburbon

in that thread he was talking about an exhaust for an 03. in this thread it's a 97. Different trucks

dd all day long

lucky for you i had this same problem with my wifes alero, gm's passlock is the biggest piece of shit around. what your wanting to do is so simple a trained monkey can do it. First find a location where you want to put your switch, then run a 12v hot wire to one side of the switch, then run a wire down to the starter post that has your ignition wire to it. thats it your done. make sure you leave the original ignition switch intact, because the passlock isnt working but the computer is still reading the code from your key. My wifes car has been like this for almost 6 months now without a single problem. Hell a $10 switch and an hour's worth of time is alot better then the $400 to replace it

If the company you are getting your sub through suggests a break in time, then break it in. It doesn't matter if it helps or not, but it will you with a warrenty if problems arise. And for the record 90% of subs out there don't a break in time, but some companies like dd and aq tell you very bluntly to break the subs in. And i can tell you from a dealer stand point that breaking in a dd sub is needed. But thats dd, not fi.

man until that pic came up, i was thinkin oh my fuckin god!!!!!!!!!! Is this guy really asking about some cock. hahaha

man thats crazy its working perfect for me. What browser are you guys using? the dd site is optimized for firefox browsers

just go to ddaudio.com and follow it from there. dont follow the link that kranny posted, its not working. But if you go to the home page first it's working just fine. I just checked it.

3512 mounting depth 7.375. 9512 mounting depth 8

all 12" models that have a high RMS rating. preferrably in the range of 1800+....lets start at the 3500 series. rms rating is 1200, but in rality the like 2k. 9500 series rms is 1500, yet the like around 2.5k daily. dont even ask about the z series because they can take more then you can throw at them. speakers must have a dust cap/cone - no flat designed surfaces......all dd subs have a cone/dust cab setup. what you can order is different cones and caps cubic displacements around .18 for each sub (if possible, if its not thats alright).....3512's have a sub displacment of .12 and 9512's have a sub displacement of .19 max wattage i dont care for........wont even address this one. coils need to be able to do 1ohm a piece or 2ohm a piece. i cant remember if their website says that info or not though. dd has coils configs from single 4ohm all the way down to dual .5 thanks man i really appreciate it...........no problem, where here to help

just tell me exactly what you need and i'll get it for you. i just checked the site by the way and it's working perfect

i still got mine

make a 5cuft box, tune it to 37hz and the dd's will slam in that car

well man it took me the first 3 years of my marriage to realize what i just told you, ever since then we have been going strong.

just remember this, when you were dating if you argue you can say fuck you im right and walk away, but once your married if and when you argue, grin and say yes dear. It doesn't matter if your right and she is wrong. It will save you from a bigger fight that can blow way up. Also pick your battles wisely. If you love her and are willing to marry her just remember that a fight or arguement is tiny and meaningless, so let it go. YOu'll be much happier getting the nookie when your not fighting, rather then saying yea bitch i won that fight, as your sleeping on the couch watching porn and playing with yourself. I've been married for 8 years, and this advice i give is hard learned.

what is it doing or not doing

oh i wasn't confused about anything. Everything I said to you was spot on. But now you come in and explain what was missing. So it tells the whole story. In your previous post you said the bov and cai both work. That in it's self had more then just me thinking you were full of it. Also your pic says 400whp, if it's not even installed yet, how do you know how much hp your pushing? I'm not picking on you, I just call it like I see it. And you have to admit, with your pic, what it says, and your previous post about how it all works...........it looked like bullshit.

well im not one to call bullshit, but this time im calling BULLSHIT!!!!!!!!!! Dude i have been building cars since i was a kid with my dad, i turned 18 joined the army and was a helicopter mechanic. Now lets touch just the basics of a rear mount turbo system. 1 yes the turbo is mounted in the rear, 2. the airfilter would be mounted in the back coming off the turbo, now as we all know you have to have exhaust gases to spool the turbo, but you also have to have fresh air also. 3. Why in the hell would you put the intercooler in the back when, unless its a water to air intercooler, it relies on airflow to cool it??? 4. with or without an intercooler, you would still have piping coming from either the turbo, or the intercooler. not an airfilter on a cai with a bov installed inline. Also you have a factory vortec air bonnet attached to your throttle body. the are held on by one plastic t-nut. There is no way in hell that can hold any amount of boost. Now in the pic i do see a nitrous sylonoid on the firewall. Dont try to bullshit people that know cars. It makes you look like a fool.

street edge is a low level memphis sub. they do decent for the price. hey phil whats up with your sig pic. it says 400hp rear mounted turbo, yet in the pic its just a cai with a bov inline??????

well i have been doing this for years, and there's a handful of others on here that are the same way. it's 90% in your box build. Some people can throw 1000+ watts at something and only be in the 130's, while others that know box and system designing can do 140+ easily on just a little bit of power. What im trying to say is dont expect a 140+ just because your going to have a big sub and decent power. If you dont hit a 140+ just step back and look at what you can change. Oh yea here's a little tip, if you plan on doing a regular box and not a wall, build it sub forward port up on the driver side. here's a link to my dime check it out.http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/index.php?act=findpost&pid=866332

well switch em around and see. if you still have the same problem, it's more then likely your rca's. if not then you got a bad preout section

Rca's are the least thought about aspect of car audio. yet they are the single most important. Because you may have subs, amps, and power.....but with no signal your just plain fucked.

thats a good list. Nice truck bro. I'm working on a 87 dime. It's getting a single dd 9515. I just got done putting in a 350 under the hood. My wife has a dd 3515, running on 400rms and she is doing a 143@45hz out of the trunk.