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bigsausagepizza

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Posts posted by bigsausagepizza

  1. For wire run front to back ive got the bigest welding cable i could find 4/0. Its like 3 0guage wires in one. Cost me 300$ for 16 feet lol. For batterys i have two under the hood. One agm with gold post(not lead) that cost me 300$ (900cca) and a regular lead acid batt (800cca). For an alternator ive got a 253 amp . I went to see my local altornator dealer and showed him what was going he said my belt was too loose. so im working on routing it differently with double the tension

    No batteries in the back ...

    One run of 4/0 is not equal to 3 runs of 1/0.

    It is equal to 2 though.

  2. just sorta proves that no matter what type of technology the new amps are coming out with, knowing what is IN FRONT of the amp is just as important as anything else. Matter of fact it's probably the most important piece of information you should know when setting gains. Hence the other MAIN reason you cannot use a Multimeter (DMM) to set gains (properly). I mean you can use your right toe to set gains, but "properly" is a different story. :)

    and that LOC - VERY typical of most cheap LOC's. You would be lucky to get 1 clean volt out of some of the most common ones out there that people use. You wouldn't know that without a DD-1 or expensive scope.

    Have nicer LOCs been tested to be clean? I'm running an old 3sixty.2 and I want to believe that it's clean, but anytime you alter your signal like that distortion is likely.

  3. So dude earlier sounded like he was talking about class d vs DE. Which really is a topology conversation right? The only way a amp is going to "color" the sound is in distortion figures right?

    The only two amps where you can hear a noticeable difference I have found is SET tube vs solid state. And that is debatable too.

    Yup, the amplifier challenge includes any amp class, even class D. This means that any "good" amp should sound the same, regardless of topology.

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