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Posts posted by pstone11
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Moved to correct location.
I will leave the marker up in the F/S section till tomorrow or so..
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Man, I was going to let you slide on the post count since you are only a couple away, but... Your screen name does not match the name on the paper in your pics. A couple more posts and some new pictures should set you right.
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Little amp is coming out here to hang with me....
Can't believe the little dude has been passed up for so long.
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Geez, I'll take the little amp.
pm me the paypal info and I will pay in the morning, or tonight if you get back to me soon.
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Need a pair of the Alpine Type R, RE audio, or the JL Audio shallow mount subs.
Or another brand if they can handle decent power
I have some T2k's or other gear to trade as well as $$ to buy.
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Im looking for one. Lemee know.
I have a couple T20001's.
Close to what you need.
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I did three DC level 3 15's off a rf t5001bd. Really loud 500 watts.
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http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/97825-fsft-fosgate-t20001bd-only-2-left/
I have 2 Fosgate T20001.bd left. Right around 2300 wrms each.
500 Shipped for one, 925 for both.
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I own the stand-alone adjustable dual altternator module.
Love it, plug and play, very nice.
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so do you guys have any recommendations for subs?? cuz im planning on making the big box sealed and the door boxes ported so i got both.
I hope that you got that backwards... The big box should be ported. The doors should be sealed....hopefully.
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He just needs to follow his last drawing. More efficient, less wires. Sorry for the confusion again!
Yup, agree, either drawing will work just fine though.
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Yes, the wiring is correct there. Sorry for the confusion.
And as far as strapping, yes it's beneficial to the meter or RTA, but not really to the ear. As long as you tune both with an o-scope, then turn the higher one down to gain match with a DMM, you'll be fine.
If all you're using is a DMM, then use manufacturer recommendations. You won't be getting full potential, but it will be clean.
Come on now, I know that knowledge is power..... This guy just needs to know how to get his subs to 1 ohm, help him out and leave it at that. I really dont think that he is too concerned about how his system plays to the meter or RTA.
++ to + -- to -
Simple question needs a simple answer.
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Not trying to piss anybody off here because I know Sundown has a shitload of great equipment, but to me when I look at the front of those it reminds me of an old Radioshack speaker, the basket also. I have not heard them so I cannot comment on the sq or anything. That's just my opinion. I do look forward to doing business with Jacob in the near future though. COME ON X8's!
and whats soooo wrong with an old radioshack speaker . But i do know what ya mean but there are a few things that are going to change withe the production model's for one the dust cap will have the logo which will change the front look and the spade "old school" thermals are also changing to push type but i do understand where ya coming from but i don't understand what looks has to do with it ....
I do agree - that stamped basket and plain ol' surround does give off the "cheap" image. I am sure it will change to fit the sundown image though.
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So this?
yes, perfect.
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You got it. Parallel the coils.
For efficiency, I would run the sub-to-amp leads from either coil rather than from one.
I'm on the phone so I apologize for a lame description lol
He means 2 red lines, and 2 black lines from a single sub to a single amp.... then repeat for the other.
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One sub per amp. both + coils on the sub to + on the amp, same with the - coils.
Give you a 1 ohm load on the amp
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No, I ran three RF T4000s, two runs per each amp of each type.
oh ok so i run both oh my runs straight to the battery in the back and from there to the amp right?
Good idea to fuse the runs from the front to the back. 200-250 fuse for cca, 300 or so for good OFC wire. (each run)
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I think he was referring to the battery bank.
well either way there not instaled yet only the one under the hood wich is a d 1200 and my alt.
Do you already have the rest of the gear? The t4k and the subs?
You have to post pics of something.
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Moved here from For Sale Section
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i built my box myself. port is 3.5 wide 15.5 tall and 4 inches from my back wall. box is 17 high 32 wide 17.5 depth.
what would u guess its tuned to?
i hit low notes very well and highnotes sound like shit sometimes
From your dimensions, I would guess that you are tuned in the high 40's... maybe 47hz or so..
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bump
I have all of that stuff - 0 gauge, 0 gauge terminals, battery terminals, etc...etc... Small XS agm battery.. I am shipping some stuff out in the morning. let me know what exactly you need.
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10:4, maybe 12:4 if I can magic some more room in the truck.
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Well I've done a few cars and trucks in the past but I've always used OEM parts. You can go to a junkyard nearby and pick up everything you need from a truck like yours. Motors, relays, switches, mouning brackets, and even door panels. I don't know your truck that well so I'm not sure it's a direct swap but every Honda or Toyota I've done was.
It should be a direct swap but junkyards are tough out here and it is even hard to find s-10 parts on craigslist... I still have an ear out, but want to keep my options open.
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So, does anybody have experience converting manual windows to power? I need to rebuild my doors and door panels and would like to not have a window crank anymore. It's on the sausage, a 93 Sonoma. While I was at it, I wouldn't mind doing power locks as well and integrating a newer alarm.. I have a couple vipers...a 5701 and something else. I could go ahead and shave it too, no problem..
I was looking at the above kit... I don't mind going more expensive, but I couldnt find anything that looked much better.. I looked at autoloc, and a couple other sites too.
welp guys 2 days to go
in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"
Posted
Welcome - Good to have you!