baker11

Thanks, only problem is I don't know the size! It appeared to be 4 gauge, it should say it somewhere on the wire but I didn't see it....maybe I didn't look hard enough

Thanks for all the replies 1. Larger Wiring- Do i need to run larger wiring through the whole truck? ( may be a stupid question, because it doesnt really make sense to just run 0 gauge from the battery to the fuse..) 1200 watt amp: 4x30 amps. According to ED's website max current draw is 130 amps. 400 watt amp: 2x30. Max current draw 55 amps. 200 watt amp: 2x25. Max current draw 49 amps. Total= 234 amps So would a 250 amp ANL fuse work? Chode69- My fuse holder and wire was burnt the same as yours and whats even funnier is i am now running the same fuse holder as you.

This is my first post here, and WOW, I thought my system was loud. Steve Meade is the man. First off this is what im running on my 2004 Chevy Avalanche- 2-18 Elemental Design subs in a sealed custom mid-gate box powered by 1-1200 watt amp( a little underpowered but definitely get's the job done) 1-8 inch ED sub- powered by a 400 watt ED amp(there for looks not hooked up) Alpine type r speakers in the rear- also powered by the 400 watt amp(usually not hooked up, like all my highs coming from the front) Kicker components in the front with crossovers- powered by a 200 watt ED amp ED tweeters All doors deadened Red top optima battery Rampage fuse holder with 100 amp ANL fuse 2 gauge power wiring Here's the problem- I was bumping my system today and all of a sudden everything just stopped and i looked at my remote bass and the light was off. So I automatically assumed I blew in the inline fuse...so I pop the hood and the inline fuse isn't blown but one entire side of the battery terminal that holds the fuse in is somewhat melted(replaced this fuse holder with a rampage after the previous holder melted) and it also burnt a good 1.5 inch of my wire(running from the battery). So i go check the fuses on my amp and there not blown...Then I turn the truck back on and my amp gets power again then flickers and I hear the pop: the fuses on the amp were blown, and then replace fuses etc amp just kept blowing fuses. It's been sent off to be repaired....and so i've finally somewhat come to the conclusion that it was because my wire going from the battery to the inline wasnt "fully inside" the terminal....so like instead of having a 2 gauge wire from what i understand i pretty much had like an 8 gauge because I wasn't getting full contact. I actually bought this truck with the system already installed, so I really don't know ALL the details that went into building it. So if anyone has any ideas on what i can do to ensure it doesn't happen again, or if there were other problems that caused this. I would really appreciate it. Also, if you need anymore info just tell me. Im including pics in case this helps someone figure out what else is wrong with this set up. Current Amp setup Current Sub setup Burnt fuse holder(terminal was melted too but i had already taken it off) Wiring on 1200 watt amp Overview of fuse holder and battery Head Unit My truck(posting for the heck of it)