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DeeBoy718

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Posts posted by DeeBoy718

  1. I had another member tell me the same thing. I'm putting the pulley back as soon as I get a chance to pick up a smaller belt. You have a DEH-80PRS just sitting in a closet, Weigel? I've heard nothing but great things about that HU. Sounds like you need to dig in that closet, dust it off, and get it in and playing! That'll likely jump start you into changing out those mediocre components you said you're dealing with.

  2. Agreed. The opti is doing well for my doors. The audiopipe can't really keep up, but since the crescendos are up higher, and I leveled the amps out, they sound pretty even. Same here, I've seen guys who swear by the brands they have installed, and when it's time for a demo, all I can do is :roflmao: The tweets came with their little black plastic capacitor box. I remember opening one up, but forgot what frequency I saw in there. Those Dayton caps work wonders on tweeters... Can make a $20 pair of tweets sound almost, if not, as good as higher end tweeters.

  3. Belt slip, huh? I definitely had some slip when I first had the alt installed. My mechanic gave me the option of either getting a slightly smaller belt, or replacing the smaller pulley on the mechman with the pulley from my stock alt. We changed the pulley, and the slip (and squeak) was gone. I understand that mechman uses a smaller pulley in order for the alt to charge faster. Could this possibly be contributing to my issue?

  4. Again, amps are a bit embarrassing, but, I have a Lanzar Opti 500 x 2 for my doors, and an Audiopipe APDL 2104 pushing the crescendos. I have a small four channel Lanzar running my highs, a single tweet on each door and one on each pod, all Lanzar Opti. They sounded a bit harsh when I first installed them, but I put a Dayton 4.7 uf capacitor on them, and the harshness is gone, and they sound rather good, at least to me and everyone that sits in my truck. I do plan on going all Sundown on the amps, not only because of the quality of the amps, but for aesthetics once I build a "take a look at this" worthy amp rack.

  5. Again, amps are a bit embarrassing, but, I have a Lanzar Opti 500 x 2 for my doors, and an Audiopipe APDL 2104 pushing the crescendos. I have a small four channel Lanzar running my highs, a single tweet on each door and one on each pod, all Lanzar Opti. They sounded a bit harsh when I first installed them, but I put a Dayton 4.7 uf capacitor on them, and the harshness is gone, and they sound rather good, at least to me and everyone that sits in my truck. I do plan on going all Sundown on the amps, not only because of the quality of the amps, but for aesthetics once I build a "take a look at this" worthy amp rack.

  6. Again, amps are a bit embarrassing, but, I have a Lanzar Opti 500 x 2 for my doors, and an Audiopipe APDL 2104 pushing the crescendos. I have a small four channel Lanzar running my highs, a single tweet on each door and one on each pod, all Lanzar Opti. They sounded a bit harsh when I first installed them, but I put a Dayton 4.7 uf capacitor on them, and the harshness is gone, and they sound rather good, at least to me and everyone that sits in my truck. I do plan on going all Sundown on the amps, not only because of the quality of the amps, but for aesthetics once I build a "take a look at this" worthy amp rack.

  7. The sub amp is a bit embarrassing to disclose, but since it will absolutely be getting replaced in the near future, I have a Crunch PZ2500.1 pushing the subs. Garbage, I know...but since I have descent subs and the enclosure is pretty solid, it actually sounds halfway descent. I'm going to be pulling the trigger and picking up a Sundown mono

    soon. Not sure which one, probably the SAZ 2500D, which I'm sure will really make them move!

  8. Hello, all. I've been lurking on this site for quite some time, and have finally decided to become a member. First off, I'd like to say that

    this is by far, one of the best and most informative sites I've ever had the luck to come across! I've been a fan of Meade since I stumbled upon his rebuild videos for his Tahoe well over a year ago. Anyway, on to my problem. Just to give some info, I own a 97 Ford Explorer XLT.

    Big 4 done, Optima red top under the hood (soon to be replaced by XS Power), and the first of soon to be 4 XS Power D375 batts under my back seats. I also have a 10 farad cap, but I only run it to my sub amp, and I will be removing it once I get all my batts. I recently purchased a mechman 270 alt and had my mechanic install it (yes, I could've done it quite easily myself, but better

    safe than sorry). I noticed that when I'm stopped at a light or a stop sign, my voltage/battery gauge on my dash drops significantly, and rises back

    to normal once I get going. This happens whether or not I have my music on. It seems a bit better at idle, but drops when I turn my music

    up. The alt is internally regulated, so the stator lead is bypassed. It never happened when my stock 130 amp alt was in. My problem seems quite similar to the problem Karkov had in his 07 Tahoe, except I don't know if my truck has that sensor someone recommended he run a better cable through. Please let me know if you need more info on my truck, but has anyone had this issue and found the fix?

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