DeeBoy718

Name's Darwin from Queens, New York. I stumbled upon your videos for the Tahoe on youtube a couple years ago, and I've been a fan ever since. Great site with plenty of knowledgeable and down to earth members.

I had another member tell me the same thing. I'm putting the pulley back as soon as I get a chance to pick up a smaller belt. You have a DEH-80PRS just sitting in a closet, Weigel? I've heard nothing but great things about that HU. Sounds like you need to dig in that closet, dust it off, and get it in and playing! That'll likely jump start you into changing out those mediocre components you said you're dealing with.

Thankfully, that hasn't happened to me! I'm quite humble about the little bit of "dabbling" that I do. I don't boast simply because I know I have a lot to learn, and for the same reason you just stated....would hate to be talkin shit and have something in my ride take a dump on me!

Agreed. The opti is doing well for my doors. The audiopipe can't really keep up, but since the crescendos are up higher, and I leveled the amps out, they sound pretty even. Same here, I've seen guys who swear by the brands they have installed, and when it's time for a demo, all I can do is The tweets came with their little black plastic capacitor box. I remember opening one up, but forgot what frequency I saw in there. Those Dayton caps work wonders on tweeters... Can make a $20 pair of tweets sound almost, if not, as good as higher end tweeters.

Belt slip, huh? I definitely had some slip when I first had the alt installed. My mechanic gave me the option of either getting a slightly smaller belt, or replacing the smaller pulley on the mechman with the pulley from my stock alt. We changed the pulley, and the slip (and squeak) was gone. I understand that mechman uses a smaller pulley in order for the alt to charge faster. Could this possibly be contributing to my issue?

Please explain, Kylar. I did read up on it, and the truck is supposed to idle at around 650rpm, which I did find kind of low. She starts up just fine, no hesitation.

Sorry for the multiple posts, not sure how that happened..

Again, amps are a bit embarrassing, but, I have a Lanzar Opti 500 x 2 for my doors, and an Audiopipe APDL 2104 pushing the crescendos. I have a small four channel Lanzar running my highs, a single tweet on each door and one on each pod, all Lanzar Opti. They sounded a bit harsh when I first installed them, but I put a Dayton 4.7 uf capacitor on them, and the harshness is gone, and they sound rather good, at least to me and everyone that sits in my truck. I do plan on going all Sundown on the amps, not only because of the quality of the amps, but for aesthetics once I build a "take a look at this" worthy amp rack.

Again, amps are a bit embarrassing, but, I have a Lanzar Opti 500 x 2 for my doors, and an Audiopipe APDL 2104 pushing the crescendos. I have a small four channel Lanzar running my highs, a single tweet on each door and one on each pod, all Lanzar Opti. They sounded a bit harsh when I first installed them, but I put a Dayton 4.7 uf capacitor on them, and the harshness is gone, and they sound rather good, at least to me and everyone that sits in my truck. I do plan on going all Sundown on the amps, not only because of the quality of the amps, but for aesthetics once I build a "take a look at this" worthy amp rack.

Again, amps are a bit embarrassing, but, I have a Lanzar Opti 500 x 2 for my doors, and an Audiopipe APDL 2104 pushing the crescendos. I have a small four channel Lanzar running my highs, a single tweet on each door and one on each pod, all Lanzar Opti. They sounded a bit harsh when I first installed them, but I put a Dayton 4.7 uf capacitor on them, and the harshness is gone, and they sound rather good, at least to me and everyone that sits in my truck. I do plan on going all Sundown on the amps, not only because of the quality of the amps, but for aesthetics once I build a "take a look at this" worthy amp rack.

The sub amp is a bit embarrassing to disclose, but since it will absolutely be getting replaced in the near future, I have a Crunch PZ2500.1 pushing the subs. Garbage, I know...but since I have descent subs and the enclosure is pretty solid, it actually sounds halfway descent. I'm going to be pulling the trigger and picking up a Sundown mono soon. Not sure which one, probably the SAZ 2500D, which I'm sure will really make them move!

And these are the pods I made. If you look at the subs pic, you can see them mounted above the box on the left and right. Crescendo PWX 6.5s in each.

Sure. Hu is a Pioneer AVH4400BT. I have 8 inch Selenium PW3's in my front doors, and Selenium PW4's in my rear doors, which I'm going to replace with another pair of 8 inch Seleniums so that all 4 doors have matching mids.

Thanks, Weigel. The truck's still a work in progress. I plan on building a 4th order, just to see how the subs will respond since the specs the subs came with show a really good output curve in a 4th.

My sub setup. 2 JBL P1222. 2 ohms per coil. Made the box myself to the woofer's specs.

I'm still reading and learning up on how to post pics and what not, but since I know everyone here likes pics, that's my 97 Explorer.

Hello, all. I've been lurking on this site for quite some time, and have finally decided to become a member. First off, I'd like to say that this is by far, one of the best and most informative sites I've ever had the luck to come across! I've been a fan of Meade since I stumbled upon his rebuild videos for his Tahoe well over a year ago. Anyway, on to my problem. Just to give some info, I own a 97 Ford Explorer XLT. Big 4 done, Optima red top under the hood (soon to be replaced by XS Power), and the first of soon to be 4 XS Power D375 batts under my back seats. I also have a 10 farad cap, but I only run it to my sub amp, and I will be removing it once I get all my batts. I recently purchased a mechman 270 alt and had my mechanic install it (yes, I could've done it quite easily myself, but better safe than sorry). I noticed that when I'm stopped at a light or a stop sign, my voltage/battery gauge on my dash drops significantly, and rises back to normal once I get going. This happens whether or not I have my music on. It seems a bit better at idle, but drops when I turn my music up. The alt is internally regulated, so the stator lead is bypassed. It never happened when my stock 130 amp alt was in. My problem seems quite similar to the problem Karkov had in his 07 Tahoe, except I don't know if my truck has that sensor someone recommended he run a better cable through. Please let me know if you need more info on my truck, but has anyone had this issue and found the fix?