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E a r t h

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Posts posted by E a r t h

  1. what are you talking about? the bluetop is for marine use...boats

    the yellow top is deepcycle & meant for the accessory loads

    there are 2 versions of the yellow top

    Yes you're right,but one is automotive [ dual purpose starting w/deep cycling abilities ] the other is commercial [ heavy equipment and such ]. The blue top is a deep cycle only. The blue top is better suited for high current accessory loads like the ''kinetik'' when the current delivery required is higher than the alternator`s output. Yellow top works in this senario,but not as well do to higher voltage drop while passing current.

    I'm telling everyone this is I have been certified in battery technology,and used to be a mobile battery unit delivering,installing,other etc.I know what I'm talking about,I have experience with many different battery technologies

  2. yes a deep cycle battery is the way to go for a car with an accessory load, such as an a pounding stereo.

    A deepcyle battery is technology used. the battery can be drained and recharged numerous times without hurting it, where as a normal lead acid(nondeepcycle) battery for a car isnt meant to go past 60% charge level, they(normal leadacid) were designed for just starting the car, thats it, then alty takes over.

    whats physically different in a deep cycle battery, technology?

    answer: the charging plates inside the battery are thicker. where as a normal non-deepcycle battery have thinner plates inside. The thicker the plates means less "wear" on them can happen. But the trade off is a slower current passthrough rate, which means it takes longer to charge and less energy to disperse as fast. in a nondeepcycle battery can past energy a lot faster but the plates will decay sooner. They(nondeepcycle) are usually cheap to make so you will see most of them with an 3+ warranty on them.

    for that very reason Optima(battery company) has a red top(for starting purposes) & a yellow top(deepcycle, accesory loads). But Optima also has a dual purpose yellowtop. which can be used under the hood as a starting & accessory load battery, half and half kinda. it was meant for the clients who didnt want to spend money on 2 batteries.

    hope that helps :)

    oh and that drycell thing, thats just a battery that is usually sealed, no need to add water, it uses a gel

    In case some are unfamiliar with Optima,the blue highlight represents the blue top.Megalo`s mind was one step ahead of his fingers ;)

  3. I have a Alpine CDA 9853

    cda9853R.jpg

    I have a Hifonics Titan 1000w mono block amp pushing a Phoenix Gold Xenon 12

    well when i have my amp turned all the way up and my in unit remote at 15(max) it cuts out when i turn my volume passed 18 my system completely cuts off, player and everything. it will shut off and cut back on...i tried changing my x-over lowrange to 0 0 200 from 0 0 80 and it cut out at 15, changed it to 0 0 20 and it still cuts out at about 18-20. anyone have any suggestions of what i might need to do?

    What size power & speaker wire are you running?

    mine does the same thing when i crank it. but its not the amp for the subs that do it, when i turn off my highs (which are just ran off the headunit) then it wont shut off. so, maybe ur highs are pulling to much from the headunit...??

    Sounds like you're having a wiring and or connection problem with your head unit and or speakers that are running off it

  4. I say do it, if you start to have issues, do the big 3.

    I don't know if anybody realizes,sebrings put their battery in the wheel well under the driver front fender.And let me tell you it's the dumbest design ever for batt placement.You even have to pull the wheel off to gain access to it.I know this cuz I used to be a mobile battery service unit.Big3 would be almost imposible if not the biggest pain in your ass trust me

    What you got planned as a new car?

    Hurry up and get the new car for your car audio enjoyment

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