Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About basednoma

  • Rank
    Forum N()()B
  1. And like that, it's complete... almost. I was too excited and rushed for time to take pictures of installing the sub, but all you missed was hooking up wires and installing them with t-nuts. I also bolted the box down to the base with 2" carriage bolts with big washers, it's pretty damn solid. It still needs paint, but I'm going to be busy for the next few weeks so I don't know when I'll get to it. Plus I'll probably change my mind on interior colours by that time, so we'll see where it goes. Here's it in the truck and how my seat has to be positioned. It's not that bad for driving since I can still fit and the straighter seat makes for a more alert driving position. Or this could just be my reasoning for taking up all the cabs free space, but I would like to be able to lean back once in a while. Well, that's my build. Hope you guys like it and hope it can help answer some questions that people doing a similar build may have. If anyone has any suggestions of things I should fix or change, I'm all ears and any input is appreciated. This is only the end of the spectrum, next is front stage then hopefully a carputer. We'll see how it goes along the way, I'm always changing my mind about it. Thanks for checking it out!
  2. Sorry for not updating this for the last month, this build ended up taking over all my free time for the last month. I bought a design from Ram Designs then started on the last weekend of August and just finished it on Thursday, so this took just over a month of working in my free time (whole weekends, majority of Monday/Tuesday/Friday). It took so long because I don’t have many tools, and I wanted to make this the best box I’ve ever made. I don’t have many decent pictures since I was more focused on working (I don’t know how some of you do it) In the last month I also bought a barely used Sundown SAZ-1500 that will go in after the sub is broken in, for now I'll be using my old Kicker KX600.1 on the right on 4ohms. I also deadened a majority of the cab using 2 cans of Great Stuff for the big cavities and 100 sq. ft. of 50mil GTMat. I did 3 layers on the roof, 2 layers on everything else except the all three doors (they will be replaced when I get to bodywork) and the floor from the seats up to the firewall (that will happen when I replace the seats). I also rewrapped my headliner because the old one had some tears and stains in it, so this was the best thing I could find at Fabricland that wasn't too distracting. I don't know if I'm going to keep it though, not sure if I can pull off Black & Gold in this interior because I wanted some green in it but it might work. This is the design I got from RAM Designs and while it's not what I would've come up with , I really like it. I ended up making a few of my own adjustments to it: I added a centre post to the braces for less flex, and made the ports removable. It's 49" W x 24" H x 14" D, basically the maximum allowable space in an S10/Sonoma extended cab while still allowing a 6'2" driver to fit somewhat comfortable. The factory seats are pretty beat and the seatback flexes alot when sitting in it, so I think I could get some more legroom if I swapped in some better seats. To make up for a lack of a router, I ended up just using a jigsaw and hand sander. I'd love to have all the proper tools and a nice garage to work in but unfortunately that will have to wait a few more years after I start my career. I still think I did pretty damn well considering I only had said jigsaw and palm sander, plus I got to use my friends table saw for cutting out the 2 4x8' MDF sheets (which was a hell of a time considering the was no bench for the overhang, next time I'll get Home Depot to do it). I was really proud of how smooth I cut these baffles with the jigsaw, the best sub holes I'd ever made! And then I realized that bigger diameter circles would be easier to cut out than smaller diameter ones... Whatever, I like the picture. Lot's of glue, lots of screws. And no, I don't know what the hell is happening on the TV. Water + Metal Bowl + 1000°F Heatgun + SDR-35 6" Sewer Pipe = Inconsistent, unsatisfying results that had very little flare and would start to pinch just before the mouth. I didn't like that, and I wasn't about to give up that easily and fork over another $150 for the Precision Ports (or I could've driven to the border and gotten them for $80 I think). So after looking at how other people were able to really flare the ports out to nearly 90°, I went ahead and build myself a jig. It wasn't the best, and I ended up making the radius of the flare too large for it to actually get flat, but it's still pretty damn nice flare. The results were a more consistent, somewhat more symmetrical flare that is pretty smooth. Wood filler and mounting rings helped smooth it out flat. I also added T-nuts for easy removal, and have a second set of ports I hope to flare soon. The other ports are cut for 28Hz, but I'm going to need more time to listen to the box to hear how the higher notes are, I may even make a third set of ports at 37Hz if I get bored over winter. Box prepped for primer. I sealed off all the edges with wood filler (I know, should've used car bondo) and sanded up to 400 grit. Sorry for not posting more pictures of the box construction, but most of them are just parts in random states of development and not really that interesting. I can post them if someone really wants to see. I used Kilz Original oil-based primer with a cheap foam roller. It did a great job hiding many imperfections, the filler and sealing the untreated edges at the back. As the picture says, I was planning to paint it gloss black and polish it out to a mirror finish but I'm waiting for now due to impatience and still not sure about what colours I want in the interior. I sanded the high spots, filled the low spots and fit the ports. Got the 10ga wire marked for installation. Closer look. Added bolt terminals for subs and the LED lights under the ports. Currently sits in series at 4 ohms for break-in period. Interior view of the bolt terminals, you can also see how the ports and the LED's line up. I also glued all the wires down so they wouldn't slap around. Got everything ready for installation. I used one of the jump seat bolts as my ground, it tested 0.00v on a voltage drop test so it should be good. Down the line I'd like to upgrade my front battery and add a rear battery, with 2 runs of 1/0 between. I plan to put the rear battery in the now-vacant jumpseat cavity, so I can snake a couple grounds down to the frame and still be under 3 feet. I made a simple base out of leftover MDF and used two factory bolts locations to hold it in using longer screws. I had to notch out two spots on the bottom to clear some humps and for the feet I used scrap 2x4's from my last build (I hope to use them in the next too, I don't know why).
  3. So I did some drinking tonight and just ordered an enclosure design from RAM designs with a rush delivery, so I hope to receive it tomorrow and figure out my equipment situation by Friday. Probably won't be much here until the weekend, since my friend wasn't around tonight to lend me his Dremel.
  4. A mock up would be ideal, if not I'll have to order one from RAM Designs tomorrow and hope they can have it done by Friday.
  5. I'm also at work so I don't have exact measurements, but I know the box's air volume is fine. I'm just worried about the magnet being ~2.5" away from the back wall. As for tuning, I'm looking for relatively flat response but with more emphasis on the lowered end. I primarily listen to Trap at the moment, but would like to listen to more Decaf in the truck (also listen to hip-hop, EDM, and anything with a good baseline). It will be on 700 watts for now until I order the Skar SK1500 later this week, so I will see it's recommended 1500w once broken in. Thanks for your input, I can't wait for it to take off too!
  6. Then today, shit got real. I got an email that the sub was in and raced to pick it up as soon as I was done work. It was much bigger than I thought it would be. Used a banana for scale, it looks like a mini-banana next to this monster! Now I understand the term "big is beautiful", this this is a beauty and a beast! The dealer I bought it off (Speed Of Sound) is apparently the only Skar dealer in Canada, so it is likely the first and only ZVX v2 18 in Canada! The coolest thing about this is that other people (probably competitors) are also looking at this same model and Don at Speed Of Sound said that he'd like me to bring it to the Clarion office in Mississauga where the T/S parameters will be retested once fully broken in. So now that I have the Sub, it's time to build the box. I don't have access to a box calculator, so if anyone would be willing to assist me it would be greatly appreciated. I have included the T/S parameters and enclosure dimensions below if anyone is willing to help, I'd love to get this built this weekend! As for goals, I'd like a slot port box tuned to 32hz (not sure, I still want it to have some punch on higher notes like kick drums) with the sub in the middle of the box and port behind the driver (unless it would be better for the sub to be behind the seat for loading). The sub needs to be mounted as low as possible so the surround won't hit the seat bolsters on full excursion but aside from that, I'm open to suggestions on how to make it better. Thanks in advance to anyone willing to help. T/S Parameters for the 18" ZVX v2 D2 Re : 3.9 Ohms Fs : 41.6 Hz Mms : 609.15 g Rms : 18.69 Kg/s Cms : 0.027 mm/N Bl : 20.21 n/a Qts : 0.73 Qes : 0.864 Qms : 7.86 Vas : 57.8 L Spl : 87.9 dB Sub Sizing Displacement : 0.16 Ft^3 Mounting Depth : 10.8" Outside Diameter : 18.3" Cut-Out : 16.5" Magnet Diameter : 8.3" Recommended Ported : 4 Ft^3 @ 32 Hz Recommended Sealed : 3 Ft^3 Maximum Dimensions – here's a horrible sketch of what I was thinking Width: 43.5" (could get about 6 more inches if I cut off the bottom of the panel that held the jumpseat) Height: 24" (with the base and sound dampening it's really 23.75" but I don't mind if it sticks up a hair) Depth: 14" (might be able to do 15", but would have to make something to protect the surround from hitting the seats) Thanks for looking!
  7. Hi everyone, I finally joined after a long time lurking this forum. I recently decided to step up my bass game from the two 12’s I’ve had for a while. I’ve had a system in every vehicle I've owned and was the one always doing installs for friends in high school and teaching them how to install. I've always wanted to do a serious build, so I decided one day I’d sell my Subaru for an S10 and upgrade my system properly. So I bought a 99 Sonoma ZQ8 ext cab this past november and spent the spring fixing up the main issues that needed to be done before spending money on the system. I had a blown double cardan joint that I replaced with a rear conversion shaft and blown shocks that were replaced with a Belltech 2/2 drop kit (+ZQ8 = 3.5"/3.5” total). I recently swapped in a Mechman 270A alternator that I got used for $150 to power the upgrades I’m doing to my stereo. Earlier this week I went up to the only SPL shop I could find in my area and ordered an 18” Skar ZVX v2 (they said it was better than the Sundown X I was looking at and I trust them since they are successful SPL competitors). I also have 100 sq. ft. of GTmat for dampening, but will only be doing the floor/roof/backwall because I plan to replace the rusty doors next summer when doing bodywork. I will probably get a Skar SK1500d before heading back to school in september if I can sell my current stereo in time. I've gotten rusty with installations after not doing many in the past few years, so I'm open to suggestions. This was what my truck looked like... until a "friend" backed up into the bed with his new F150, this is my damage. This is his damage, he was able to rub most of it off and is now being quite difficult in helping with the repair(long story)... So this is what it looks like now. I intend on doing the bodywork next summer, but I'm still unsure of what direction the build will go in (I will probably clean up the panel before going back to school). I installed the Mechman 270a alternator and Big 4 with 1/0awg copper welding cable. It took a while to get all the right parts, mainly the belt. Also I use SnapChat a lot, so that will explain the text on most of the pictures. I got this alt on Kijiji for $150. It was from a 2006 Tahoe, but for some reason he got one that didn't have the proper PCM hook-up and was causing charging issues. I saw the one wire and similar plug and figured it should work, luckily it did. It was tough to fit the four 1/0 grounds and original ground, even with extended posts. A dual battery upgrade is on the list. Since I couldn't find it anywhere, the proper belt for a large case Mechman alt on a 4.3L is the Goodyear Gatorback 4060960. Unfortunately the one I bought had a different belt (taught me to verify the part numbers!) inside, a 4060100 if I recall, which was 4 inches too long. I got it sorted out after waiting a few days for it to arrive. Either way, I saved about $500 getting it used. If it craps out, I'll try to send it back to Mechman to be refurbished with a 6-phase stator (hopefully will last longer than my last 2 stock alts). I also picked up a raw LED voltmeter for $6, I think it's for Arduino projects. I like it, but I just got to find a proper wire for it to read off, the factory voltmeter wire was killing the battery on start-up.
  • Create New...

SMD Chat Room

SMD Chat Room

Please enter your display name