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chuey_316

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About chuey_316

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    120db
  1. Thanks everyone. How many sq in of port would be good to run? I was aiming for around 500 to match cone area, but a calculator that I'm using is calling for 718. That seems like an excessive amount to use and still keep it sounding good, but then again I'm new to 4th's.
  2. I'm doing a rebuild here very soon, and I'm getting the box design figured out. I'm going for a 4 Skar SDR-18's in a 4th order b pillar wall in an 03 Trailblazer Ext, off an rp2000.1d. I'm unsure what to tune it to, so I'm working on 2 designs. one tuned to 50hz, and one tuned to 45hz. Here's what I've got so far. Either boxes total net will be 36 cubes. 12 on the sealed side, and 24 ported, with 506 sq. in of port area. I'm looking for a setup that will sound good from 30 or under, up to 55-60hz, and be capable of 150's on music across the pass band, with the ability to float cans, do hair tricks, ect. Which tuning would be better to go with? Next question is whether I'm figuring the tuning correctly. When tuning, would I tune for a 36 cube box, or just the 24 cube chamber? The numbers I've came up with so far have been figured by going off the ported chambers size, and I don't want my tuning to be way off. I had a 7.5 cube ported box tuned to either 35.7, or 37.5 (years ago, can't remember which) with 80 or 90 sq in of port, with an RE 18HC off of 1200w that would do low 50's on music (on an AC, not a TL), and sounded good on almost anything I played. No box I've built since then in any of my vehicles have ever had the same power behind them, and I'm really trying to change that. Thanks for reading.
  3. I could save more, but with kids, and a mortgage I can't justify spending more on audio like I would before. From everything I've heard and seen though, the Skar amps seem to be reliable, and they do more than rated.
  4. Both amps look good, and I've seen only good reviews and tests for each of them. My friend is a Skar rep, and can get my equipment better cost than what can I find online, but unfortunately the rp2000.1 is unavailable at the warehouse. Still found a few places online that have them for $230 though. I was told that the AB's were power hungry, is that true, or is it only the older ones? I mean I know it takes power to make power, but any ideas as to which of these two need more current?
  5. Thanks. Not sure how I missed those. Saw the ph2500, but not the 4000. My list just narrowed down to 2 amp that weren't on the list.lol I'll do some reading, and decide which one to get. I'll say that I'm initially leaning towards the Skar, only because a friend of mine runs a lot of their equipment for daily, and comp, and has never had issues, but I definitely won't overlook the American Bass.
  6. I've seen dyno vids of the BRX, BRZ, and BE lines, but nothing on the BEX line. I'm in the market for a new amp, but the holidays and bills have the budget strapped, so I'm doing a lot of comparing to get the best that I can with what I have to spend ($250 max). Would like to be around 2-2.5k @1ohm. Sub is an RE HC18 D2, 2/0 cable, one deep cycle under the hood, and will be powered by 2 ad244 alts. Not 100% whether they are the 145a, or 160a alts, so I'll just assume 290a total to be safe.
  7. Well he brought it in today, and it's not the 2500, it's the zx1500. Was pretty bummed. Had planned to just run it at 4ohm till I seen that. I know they clamp around 2200 @1ohm, but I'm not gonna spend $250 on an amp to run it under imp. Guess I'll go with my original plan of either a brx2400.1d for the same price, or a refurbed rub1.2500d for $60 less.
  8. Wasn't sure because I've done alot of reading on it, and it seems petty mixed. Some people saying they ran at 1, and others saying that theirs would protect at 1. Have to grab a clamp meter so I can check my box rise. May be fine wired at 1 after rise. Definitely a steal. Not stolen though. It's a guy I work with, that I've known for 20+ years. He paid $700 for it, used it in his girlfriends vehicle for a year or so before selling the car, and it's been sitting in his house ever since.
  9. I'll just run it at 4ohm for awhile and resell it on eBay. For $250 I can't pass it up. It'll do enough at 4ohm to keep my 18hc happy.
  10. Need a new amp and I have a chance to pick up a zx2500.1, I know they are 2ohm stable, but has anybody ran 1 at 1ohm daily? Running 1/0 power and we'll have 300a under the hood, with a deep cycle battery. Just trying to figure out if the amp can handle 1ohm daily before I grab it.
  11. I may be thinking of the BRZ, but I thought I seen somewhere where it did a solid 2000-2100 certified at 13.25v, and something around 3k uncertified, or dynamic burst.. If not then I may just be looking for a different amp. Main reasons for the snd alt are that 1, I'm told that amp is power hungry, 2, I hate dimming, 3, I already have a spare ad244, and my ac doesn't work anyhow, 4, I plan to add another amp for components as well, and lastly, I like overhead. Also have an rub1.2500d that I can pick up for a decent price instead of the Brut.
  12. Planning for some upgrades in the spring. Ordering a BRX2400.1d, installing my 2nd AD244 alt, and I'd like to add a 2nd battery in the back of the Blazer. Question is, does it matter what type of battery goes in the back? I thought I read somewhere that you don't want to put regular batteries back there. Something about chemical releases. Is this the case, or am I mis-remembering things?
  13. I know that the 1800d and 1200d were the same amp, and were around 1250w. I also know that the later 1800's had 4 30a fuses rather that 3, and according to some, was closer to 1500w. I have a chance to grab an 1801d new in the box for $80. Does anyone know for sure if they were the same amp, or if they were at least capable of 1200w+? I see that it uses 4x40a fuses. The manual says 900 @ 1.3ohm, but the 1800d only said 1000, and it did more than that.
  14. No luck on being able to hook it up in a different vehicle yet. I remembered that the day I ran the ground, and the problem stopped I also added one under the hood. The one from the alt case to frame. It's just some 8ga with ring terminals crimped on using my vice because it's all I had at the time. Intended on getting new cable, but since it has been working fine I forgot all about it. Decided to go out a bit ago and check the resistance with my dmm. Battery neg to the cleans spot on frame was good at .1ohm. How ever when i tested the ground between the frame/alt, I got a higher reading around .5 ohm. Have an upper respiratory infection, and it's cold out right now, so I won't be able to check voltage drop until tomorrow. Going tomorrow and buying some 2 or 4ga battery cables to replace both grounds, and then run the battery positive to the alt, since I didn't get a chance to do that. If It has to be fixed, I'll have it fixed, but I can't see paying to ship it out without checking everything else 1st, since the same issue with it before was fixed by changing the grounding spot. Thanks again for the responses. I'll keep updating with any changes, or questions. If nothing else, it could serve to help someone in the future.
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