Gavin
-
Posts
69 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Media Demo
Store
Collections
Videos
Posts posted by Gavin
-
-
Hey PPL,
Need some advice. I'm building a demo/comp car here and Japan, and of course DC audio will be the star attraction" My question / problem is, which would be better 2 10s or 1 12. My car is a "Honda Zest"
http://www.leblogauto.com/2006/02/honda_zest.html
I know its not in English but you can see what the car is like. For power, I'll be using a crunch gp pro 3000d amp and 2 12v batts.
-
It's already been said but.. you got a heck of a fan buddy. It must be nice to be at that level!
-
I think I'll be hanging out here now. I got MY pen(s) and books ready!
Since class has began, I have a question for ya. in your 2003 build, how many cubes / liters was your box? and, how do you figure your cubes with the angle boards? I got my box done and its 52.61 cubes right now and tuned to about 50Hz doing a 56 / 57,(no angle boards installed yet) I'm trying to get it down cubes down and the Freq up to at least 65Hz. This is where I was told that astros play best..
Teacher.. advice please
-
Steve, I just peeped out your tear down and rebuild. All I can say is that, thanks to pics like this, it inspires me to keep going when I'm ready to quit! I'm in the mits of doing my astro for DB Drag, and taking her apart seems to be the biggest job. I'm trying not to even think about the box build. I also noticed that your almost a one man operation, same here
and its no joke, after doing your day job and come home to do your night work is a killer, but again looking at your work. I know in the end, it will be worth it! Thanks steve, keep the pic coming, they help and inspire more then you could ever imagine.
-
just depends on fitment issues. one box would be easier as far as work, 2 boxes be easier fitting in cuz the opening in the back isnt as big as it is inside. but i might have enough room to lower it a couple inches. just make it a tad longer. hopefully tomorrow i can get out and get some measurements done. might need all the heighth i can get, it's like 34 inches from the top to bottom. but yeah...i'll check
sounds good, keep us posted. if possible take some pics as you build. The more you give us, the more we can try to give you!
-
hell yes. thanks. that's kinda something i was aiming for, a good mix between the two . gonna make two separate boxes, each with it's own chamber. 4 cubes of air, hopefully some glass on the front to add character, then wall it off behind the seats. not sure on dimensions tho. might have another thread about port size when i get the box dimensions down(regular and comp size). seems like in the past when i'd build a box, even to spec, it didnt quite turn out right. had a good one, but if it aint broke, dont fix it. and that's what i did lol.
No need for 2 boxes!! 1 box, changable ports. Unless you just want to build 2 boxes
-
i would have to agree 100% with this reply, make each sub have its own chamber.
Did some more checking, as for ports, you can do changable ports, the would be your best bet if you want to walk the line between comp and street.
-
i am going to get 4 15" fully loaded BTL's and was wondering what the best box to put them in would be. 5 cubes by themselves ported? i always heard it's best to put them in their own box or if it shares a box, to put a separater to separate the subs. but lots of vehicles i've seen lately have 2 to 4 subs in one BIG box. any differences in the two? should i put all 4 in a box with about 20 cubes and brace the hell out of it? if so how big should the port be? i have a lil more than 20 cubes of airspace available. nothing bigger than 42"W x 33"H x about 40" long. i also heard that it's loudest if subs face up, and port faces back. but with 4, i'm probably going to have to wall it off.
it's going to be going in a daily driver that wants to compete
can anyone help me with box/port dimensions? i just want the best build possible. if you can i'd love you forever
Boss man, I'm not a pro at this but I do suggest that you chamber each sub, reason being is that if one sub goes, the other 3 subs will be off as far as cu.inches is concerned. Also, a street box and comp box are not the same, one your building for ground pounding(street) and the other (comp) is for the mike/sensor.not your ears!! depending on how serious your gonna get, I would stick with the street build, it would sound better. Comp boxes are made for 1 note/freq. If I'm wrong, I'm sure someone will correct me.
-
I saw this at RF forums and since well.....im the only one that has one in his possesion besides a few stores probably, i figured id paste it here. Interesting read on how it does its power.
Tony Damore
Posted - 12/06/2006 : 9:36:39 PM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hey guys thanks for the props!! Yes it is true the idea came from a defibrillator. It seemed silly to me that all these guys in the db drag lanes need to have 1/2 of their vehicle full of batteries and alternators to maintain a decent B+ voltage for a few seconds. That and the fact that the amount of total energy all those batteries contain is huge and they are only using a fraction of it during their burp. It is like taking a NASCAR car to a drag race. A vehicle that is designed to go 200mph for hours on end probably isn't the best design for a 1/4 mile burst.
So when you look at the way a defibrillator is used its like burping an amp. Defibrillators don't have massive power cords that need mega amps at 220V, in fact some of them are portable and run off a very small battery. Why, because they don't need to shock someone for hours at a time, just a quick burst. They just draw a small amount of power continuously during 'charge up' and once all the energy they need is accumulated they release it all at once.
With the operation of the defibrillator in mind, I tried to apply it to car audio. I set off to build a prototype which was based on (2) T1500.2 output sections, I had to liquid cool the MOSFETs because even the FETs in the T1500.2's were not big enough to handle the kind of power I wanted. By keeping them very cold they could be pushed beyond their limits. (This may be the radiator ect... part of the story that someone posted). Then I needed a way to store a bunch of energy, electrolytic caps and some of the carbon based caps that are commonly used in car audio were not even close to being capable of storing the amount of energy I needed, so I used 12 small motorcycle batteries in series to get 140+ Volts. Then I built a power supply that would convert 12VDC to 140VDC to 'charge' these batteries.
I got this contraption all put together the night before the Annual Rockford Fosgate Employee Sound-Off. I didn't really how much power it would make exactly, but to try to shorten this long story it ended up putting out 15,030 Watts RMS! This is how 15k Watts became the goal for a 'real' amp.
The first step towards making it a 'real' amplifier was I had to eliminate the array of batteries. I began searching high and low for something that would do it. I found a company that makes capacitors for hybrid cars and large wind turbines. These worked perfectly. The caps I ended up using are 400 Farads, and there are 180 of these in the T15kW. Then I needed an intelligent power supply that could monitor these caps and add energy to them as needed, and it had to be fast, really fast if this amp was going to play music and not just a burst. So during music these caps are charging, discharging, charging, discharging. The power supply in the T15kW can charge the caps 35,000 times per second.
Of course many other things had to happen like finding MOSFETs that could handle it, a way to keep it cool without antifreeze and car radiators ect. The final product met all the goals and then some.
The main idea is that with this technology the amplifier can put out more power during transients or bursts than the car it's connected to could supply.
Again thanks for the props, look for hybrid technology to hit our smaller amplifiers in the near future.
PS if you guys would like to see pictures of the original liquid cooled proto I'll post them. This proto was eventually dubbed the D'Fibrillator. haha
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tony D'Amore
Design Engineer
Rockford Corporation
Tony is a Great guy! I met him at MES here in Japan. Steve your name came up a few times!hehehehe
Steve, If you get to talk to tony, ask him about the girl at the MES show!!!!! watch him bust out laughing!
-
I followed his build, though about it, but being here in Japan and building it on my own, Not willing to trash my stuff again. gonna go simple this time, besides, I can get more advice on a box build that mostly everyone is using. :w00t:
-
try a bandpass
I bit scared of the bandpass design, I built it wrong last time and It cost me a recone, and living in Japan, a recone can be expensive! but I did want to try a design that I saw a while back, the same type of design that is in scott owens truck.. the tube design, I hear dante and some others are using it. I have no idea on how to build it or tune it.. suggestions please.
-
x2There has been an update since this post started!! the autoteks are for sale, I'll be using 4 goliaths and as many 16v batts as possible in the accord! :^ so it goes like this:
4 Goliaths
10+ 16v batts (another 10 on hand!)
2 ATOMIC apx18D1's
ported wall. size tbd
Moe power :nuke:
Pretty loud man :w00t:
The test bed will be my accord wagon, the coop da greasy will be the astro. gonna add 2 more D1's to the mix. and 10 moe batts :weight_lift: Gotta break the 160 mark this year!
-
There has been an update since this post started!! the autoteks are for sale, I'll be using 4 goliaths and as many 16v batts as possible in the accord! :^ so it goes like this:
4 Goliaths
10+ 16v batts (another 10 on hand!)
2 ATOMIC apx18D1's
ported wall. size tbd
Moe power :nuke:
-
Any pic's?? :shifty:
-
was just checking out how you have your setup. I would take the box back out and double the mdf and brace it and round the corners on the inside with fiberglass. then reinstall and seal off the front so that you will have all the sound waves up front and nothing getting to the rear. you are losing DBs with the way its setup now( its not a bad setup not saying that at all).
as for the sounddampner I use spray dampner in the doors about 2 1/2 can per. give nice even coats. if they don't check i i would rip out the dash and build it up using mdf and FG then replace the dash (plastic part) nothing wrong with an extra edge.
as far as getting the extra voltage 16 volts is good but you then have ot look at upgrading alt. and getting an external regulator to get volts above 16 volts to keep system charged either way ur kicking out the money. its not cheap to compete.......
was just checking out how you have your setup. I would take the box back out and double the mdf and brace it and round the corners on the inside with fiberglass. then reinstall and seal off the front so that you will have all the sound waves up front and nothing getting to the rear. you are losing DBs with the way its setup now( its not a bad setup not saying that at all).
as for the sounddampner I use spray dampner in the doors about 2 1/2 can per. give nice even coats. if they don't check i i would rip out the dash and build it up using mdf and FG then replace the dash (plastic part) nothing wrong with an extra edge.
as far as getting the extra voltage 16 volts is good but you then have ot look at upgrading alt. and getting an external regulator to get volts above 16 volts to keep system charged either way ur kicking out the money. its not cheap to compete.......
Hammerdown, ya got that right, its costing me almost everything I got :rip_1: to become Japan's champ :w00t:. as for the edge, I was thinking the same thing, ripping out the front and building it up ,then replacing the everything to make it look normal! :whistling: As for the box, My van is virgin, nothing has been done to her yet!
I will go ported wall with 4 18's, 4 Goliaths and 20 16v powermaster batts! :weight_lift:oh, I forgot to say, I also have a 350amp alt included! :^ :^I'm trying for 160+, if everything is done right, what do you THINK I will be seeing? a ray of sunshine please, because when this bill hits, its gonna be dark for a long time! :'( :'( :'( -
5k on shipping alone
not including japan custom taxes etc. batts + shipping + japan tax= almost 9k! :'( :- -
To all the SPL astrovan users out there.. what are some of the do's and don't of this van. My team mate and I are now really thinking about switching. All the big boys are using these vans so I know they can get hella loud!
It will be walled off, holding 2 18" subs, 4 goliaths and 8 16v power master batts. It will be all out SPL, (SS 1~2) I know I will use a ported box, but what W D H (cu.ft) measurements worked best that you know of? dam, no replies from the astro guys???? :'(
-
Some pics would be great! Right now, I'm a one man team, My sweetheart still has not been striped yet! so any pics would help a lot! I wanted to do steel and crete, but again, I have no idea on where to start... besides the gutting part! LOL
As for cheatin...They cheated first! I was running a basic 12v system.. everyone else was 14 and 16v! fair is fair! Hey, another question. about batts. how do I wire 8v batts to get 16v to the amps? lookin at picking up at least 20 golfcart batts.
-
PPL,
I in the pre-stages of building my astro, I got the equipment part done, box design almost done, but now the sound deadner delimma.. Since over here in J-town (JAPAN) they don't really check things like back home. USA. I was thinking of using fiberglass to sound deaden my doors and roof!
SD over here cost a ton of money, and foget about importing it! I wanted to use Magic Mate but just too much right now.. :V My idea, since I'm in SS, remove all the plastic in the front area, FG everything I can, and put the Plastic cover back over it.. so it looks like nothing was ever changed! but under neeth, everything is sealed and hard as hell! :^ Your thoughts please. And before anyone asks, we only have 2 brackets here.. SS and EXTREME, and the only difference is the front is done in EXTREME, after that ANYTHING GOES! > :-X :V -
how about for 16v batts.. same suggestion?
My new baby! can't help but to show her off.
She's gonna be the TYSON PUNCH of DB drag over here. The exteme king over here is doing 160.4 out of a Benz! >
I'm in SS. there are no classes here, Just SS and EXTREME. so my goal is to knock out the SS king who is doing 156.* with 7 RF T2000bd and 8 turbostart batts! off the big chair, then its on to the extreme class. where 160.4 is the record her in Japan.....FOR NOW THAT IS! Any advice you can give me on building this machine to U.S. standards would be welcome. :^ -
No advice from all you Pro's!!! :'( Dam, this is what I get for living so far away... :'( LOL
-
I will pickup 4 Hifonics goliaths over the winter for my new setup. ;D Question, how many 16v batts do you suggest to give these monsters? This will be an all out SPL vehicle. (astrovan)
-
nope..use that sweep to find your frequency, then when your at the show, use that frequency to burp with.
If you use a sweep in a comp your score will not be as good.
Gotta agree, using sweeps heats your coils up quick and it also pulls battery power
, so by the time you get to the sweet spot, your coils are hot and your batts area semi drained. :-[ Trust me, I learned it the hard way. :'( -
To all the SPL astrovan users out there.. what are some of the do's and don't of this van. My team mate and I are now really thinking about switching. All the big boys are using these vans so I know they can get hella loud!
It will be walled off, holding 2 18" subs, 4 goliaths and 8 16v power master batts. It will be all out SPL, (SS 1~2) I know I will use a ported box, but what W D H (cu.ft) measurements worked best that you know of?
and its no joke, after doing your day job and come home to do your night work is a killer, but again looking at your work. I know in the end, it will be worth it! .gif){kind=small}
I will go ported wall with 4 18's, 4 Goliaths and 20 16v powermaster batts! :weight_lift:oh, I forgot to say, I also have a 350amp alt included! :^ :^I'm trying for 160+, if everything is done right, what do you THINK I will be seeing? a ray of sunshine please, because when this bill hits, its gonna be dark for a long time! :'( :'( :'(
not including japan custom taxes etc. batts + shipping + japan tax= almost 9k! :'( :-
2 10xl's Or 1 12xl
in DC Sound Lab - Big Bass on ANOTHER LEVEL!
Posted
I would love to, but being my car is so small, big amps are out