Carnines
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Posts posted by Carnines
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True but I've owned other amps where the protect doesn't kick in til the amp is toast... Some of the older MTX amps were famous for it.
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Not a lot of power. Strapped at 2ohm each amp gunna rise and not make a lot of power... You need to strap at 1ohm for then amps to make some power...
From my testing two CF 8ks at 1ohm EACH was same DB as 1 cf 8k at .5ohm because the damn rise. Why have double the money tied up into two amps when you can wire 1amp low and get same results
Edit just seen u have two lvl6 18s... A DC 7.5k on each woofer at 1ohm would hammer them things lol
I mean 2 dc 7.5k's strapped at 2ohms for the pair of woofers is no different than 2 dc 7.5k's ran at 1 ohm per woofer.
Wouldn't strapping at 1 be 0.5 per not 1 ohm?
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Someone on the inside must have tipped off these guys on how to do it or at least a tiny bit of what was involved. I mean, hell, finding all the switches (especially the last one) would have taken a fucking lifetime. Then having to decipher the morse code, record the audio from another map, put it into a 3rd party program and slow it down enough to recognize wtf it's saying, then figure out how to multiply the letters together and find that dimly lit keypad would have taken his son's whole lifetime.
There's usually a group of people that hunt for things like this all the time. If dozens of players are looking to find out the easter egg it's not that hard when they work together.
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Sometimes I rub petroleum jelly all over myself and pretend I'm a slug.
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2 of the batteries aren't needed as of now but i'm saving for some new subs and bigger amps, so it's a pending upgrade
at that i probaby wont be able to play high volume as much in the cold temps anyways to where taking a 3rd d5100 out would make sense
As long as you aren't at extremely cold temps then you can play as loud as you want.. if it's super cold then gradual play the system since just about everything in audio generates heat.
You can play louder and achieve more spl in colder temperatures vs hot since a lot of failures come from too much heat.
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Be careful covering up those holes as they are there to release the pressure in the cab as to not pop your ear drums when doors/trunk are slammed shut, we would recommend leaving them as they are.
Where does the pressure release in a truck when the doors are slammed?
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Too bad it's at 14 volts instead of something realistic for a 12 volt system
Thats why there is 12v amps, for people who run 12v electrical. IMO big boy amps need big boy electrical.
Won't disagree with you that the SCV needs big boy electrical.
However, I'd like you to show me a 12v tested amp instead of a 14.4 tested. I don't think I have come across a korean board that isn't 14.4 tested.
just so you are aware.. the scv amp is not like the rest.. its made to be efficient at lower voltage so it actually needs less electrical than other amps to get its rated power.. somehow im getting the feeling you dont know much about the SCV line of amps
No I wasn't aware that their efficiency is greater at lower voltages...
If the amps had an ability to do that.. why wouldn't they compare it to a similar quality amp at 12 volts to show its ability to do so. That would be something cool to see.
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Too bad it's at 14 volts instead of something realistic for a 12 volt system
Thats why there is 12v amps, for people who run 12v electrical. IMO big boy amps need big boy electrical.
Won't disagree with you that the SCV needs big boy electrical.
However, I'd like you to show me a 12v tested amp instead of a 14.4 tested. I don't think I have come across a korean board that isn't 14.4 tested.
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well its rated at 7500 at 12v.. it should do that rating for those who cant afford to get 14v. but then 12v wont be realistic because people will drop to 10v, at that point they are better off on a scv6000 or a scv4000.. like i said if people cant support the electrical demand of an amp maybe they shouldn't run that amp or give up the audio scene
If it's doing 8400 at 14 wouldn't it lose 30% power at 12 volts which would make it do 5900 before rise is put into the factor?
Not hating on Sundown.. just don't care for the industry standard ratings and how products are marketed.
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Too bad it's at 14 volts instead of something realistic for a 12 volt system
every time i see one of your post you're talking down on other brands
14 volts is realistic its not like its at 16v or even 18 volts.. if some people cant support the electrical for any amp then they shouldnt be in the car audio scene
I didn't talk down on the brand. I don't care for amp tests some most people wont ever see 14 volts using that amp. For the people that go off their battery banks that don't own a chevy, cadillac, hummer, etc that can hold multiple alts have to go off bigger battery banks.
Not talking down on the brand, I am talking down on the amp tests.
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Too bad it's at 14 volts instead of something realistic for a 12 volt system
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You are over thinking it. 1 layer of deadener and a layer of ccf will be more than enough. You'd be suprised how much 1 layer of good deadener will fix it
What's wrong with overthinking a problem before it happens
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No need for 2 layers as mentioned.
I'll get a feel for it when the headliner comes down.. my 2 shallow JL's on a 1k amp would flex the roof so 7x the power on 4 12's should make it get nasty. Others have warned me about how bad the flex is on a titan roof. Won't really know until all is said and done I guess but thanks for the advice.
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The advice you are receiving is correct, ONE layer of a high quality American made butyl rubber like Damplifier Pro is usually enough to stop the vibration and strengthen the metal. A second layer will make the roof stronger and add more mass but your best bet would be to add CCF and MLV to the roof too. Our all in one product Luxury Liner Pro has both CCF/MLV infused into one product but at 1 lb per sqft you will need to find some heavy duty adhesive to keep it stuck to the roof (most high temp spray adhesives including ours will not hold that weight upside down on the roof) you most likely would need contact cement. If you are insisting on doing multiple layers we would recommend doing one layer of Damplifier Pro, one layer of Spectrum liquid sound deadening (1-2 coats to reach 2mm thickness) , and then top it off with Heat Wave Pro (an OEM jute material that is lighter weight and used on ceilings and hoods) to achieve more sound deadening. If you have a way of holding the heavy LLP or MLV up there than you would replace the HWP with the MLV/CCF combo.
I will do a second layer on the roof and a layer of CCF on the deadener.
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6 layers is the dumb. More layers can actually hurt you to a point. Just do one and add if needed
Well what I did with the doors is mostly one layer and a double over in the weak point of the door which stiffened it up quite a bit.
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Then why do the SQ guys do so many layers of deadener?
They do?
From what I have read. I know one guy did 6 layers.
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Then why do the SQ guys do so many layers of deadener?
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I was just curious. If I don't use wood to brace my roof it'd be a layer or two of second skin. I really don't want any roof flex.
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How many layers can one do before the diminishing returns become too great?
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With your power i'd rather get 3 Sundown SA 12's over the 2 sundown x's. Another option would be to run a single Zv4 15 or 18.. leaning towards the 18.
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9k total, bass and mids highs, 6800 or 7k is going to the subs
Watts are watts.
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sorry I was looking for a serious answer, I know I don't need 8 batteries for 7k watts rms
You just said 9k. If you know how many you need why are you asking.
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sorry I was looking for a serious answer, I know I don't need 8 batteries for 7k watts rms
You just said 9k
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Get nice battery charger and like 5-7 xp 3000s lol
Info on Skar Txl subs
in SKAR AUDIO - (READ ONLY ARCHIVE)
Posted · Edited by Carnines
Never heard of an sq sub rated at 2500 rms.
Quality of sound would be based on box, processing, and how clean the power source is.