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About EyeMKermie

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  • Birthday 05/14/1986

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  1. I like the sb29, but in my last car I preferred the xt25. I may try the sb29 in this car. It may behave differently. In a door I wasn't a fan of the sb17nrx version. It ended up being fantastic in a pair of floor standers. I was actually looking at the SB10PGC21-4. It is basically the same size as the 3" in the Audible Physics 3 way set, the Avatar 1.3.6. Thinking now, running that sb10 and sb29 in the pillar might be pretty interesting.
  2. I have yet to audition any scan drivers. Most of my collection of drivers are Dayton, Peerless, and SB. I have a few really great Tang Bands, but they are all 8-ohm drivers for my home audio projects.
  3. That is a good point about widebands. It is hard to tell sometimes. Look at the Scanspeak discovery 10F. It is listed as both a mid range and a full range driver, but with some nasty cone breakup at 8k I don't see why someone would run it full range. I usually set my overlap with -5 db test tracks and an o-scope. I have a dd-1, but it has been lost for about a year and a half.
  4. I don't need a ton of excursion, but it seems the norm for 3" to 4" midrange drivers is about 2mm one way excursion. The RAM 3A is listed at .5mm. When I ran my ne95's in WinISD and Bassbox pro, it was showing a little over 1.5mm one way excursion at 80 watts of input power when crossed 250hz up. I haven't ran the RAM 3A in either of those programs to get an idea of how the driver would respond to a small enclosure. Of course, simulations by those programs are just rough approximations as to how the drivers would act in a car. When I said SQL I meant it as sound quality loud, but I guess in MECA it's sound quality league.. EMMA it's ESQL. I've always heard it referred to as sound quality loud, because you are playing the system above the normal 90db SQ judging levels.
  5. I've also looked at the Avatar 1.6 component set. T/S parameters are on par with what I look for and the price right now isn't bad. Sure would be easier to fit the 6" behind the factory door panel.
  6. I was referring to the amount of time I spend listening to each tune. One for sq and one more sql. 90% of the time I run a configuration with a targeted frequency response that is mostly flat. Sometimes that tune sounds best flat and sometimes I tune the response flat up to about 400hz and let it slope down on the top end. The other tune, my spl tune, is the same as the other, except I raise my crossover points to protect the drivers usually letting the sub play up to 80hz or so. If that all makes sense. Glad to hear you have experience with the brand. According to the Audible Physics site, the RAM 6.2 set and RAM 3A seem to be low on the sensitivity side and lack excursion compared to other drivers. Have you experienced any issues with either the excursion limits or output?
  7. You are right. An SQ setup is more than that. After setting up the electrical system and clearing the vehicle of as many resonance/panel vibrations areas as possible, then the drivers and amps form the foundation of the system. This car is my daily, so fabrication and speaker placement are limited. This is not an IASCA SQC Extreme Open competition car. I have another car I'm building to compete. My goal is a great bang for buck daily setup that will spend 80-90% of the time configured for sq and roughly 10% tuned for SQL, different DSP presets. With the drivers I have the Zapco ST-4XP is enough to get good dynamics out of the drivers without running into excursion limitations at reasonable listening levels. But I'm still looking for input on drivers. I'd be willing to spend $100-150 per driver if they made a big enough difference over the daytons.
  8. Are you speaking from first hand experience with Audible Physics drivers? These Dayton rs drivers, from my experience, stage pretty well and don't beam nearly as early as other drivers I've used. I'm less concerned with beaming and roll off as I am with first order reflections. There is a lot of glass in this car. And of course, I really won't know what the issues in the car are until it is wired and playing. Once I have the mid and tweet propped up in temporary pods, I can play with aiming, placement, and spacing to get the imaging and soundstage where I want.
  9. Oh and I could really use some input on sub amps. More research on that Scar rp2000.1 looks like it has a problem with the protection shut off. It could be user error, but there are a lot of comments talking about the amp going into protect. I could use some input on choices for an amp that does rated power reliably. I'm aiming for 2k rms at 1ohm. Running my Fi q15 sealed I like to have a bit more power on tap.
  10. Hey everyone, Little update on the plan. I think I'm going to go with a different front stage setup. I have a Peerless xt25-4 tweeter , the small frame neo version, that I'm going to keep using. I found on a class A/B amp it shines. I used it with some class D amps and it was lacking. Midrange I have a pair of unused dayton rs100p-4's I may try or go back to using my peerless ne95-4 mids. I've also thought about taking a chance on the Audible Physics Ram 3a mids, but they seem to lack excursion capabilities at .5mm one way. I also have a pair of dayton rs180-4's and a pair of rs180p-4 woofers to use. I've used the rs180 aluminum cones in a previous build and it sounded great. It struggled a bit with 125w rms from a class D four channel, but I think running them with the 80w class A/B Zapco it should be better. I plan to use one of these pairs as the midbass in the front. Unless I find a better midbass option that isn't going to break the bank. Considering the AudioFrog GS60, but I feel like it might be a wash for output and sq as a midbass. Whatever the midrange ends up being, I'll stick the same in the rear doors for rear fill. Current crossover plans are: xt25 run 4k and above rs100p run 200hz to 4k rs180 run 65hz to 200hz. Need some input on midrange and midbass options.
  11. The minidsp has up to 25ms of delay available per channel. I've never used the rear fill processing or that much delay with this dsp yet, but I figured since I have all the outputs I might as well give it a shot. I can always turn it off until I get it to integrate right.
  12. Hello Everyone, Looking for a bit of input on my plan for a new sq build. It has been nearly 5 years since my last post and my knowledge/skill level has come a long way. I went through roughly 10 iterations of a SQ build in the last car which was a b5 Audi A4 Avant. That car was a horrible platform for a stereo system, but the last version wasn't bad. Recently got a 4th gen CRV which seems to be a solid platform for a build. Here's the build plan. Equipment I'm bringing into the new build: Zapco st-4xp 4-channel, Minidsp c-dsp 8x12v2, and Fi Q15 (dual 2ohm). The new equipment: Front stage- cdt crm-1200 tweeter, cdt crm-3k mid, cdt crm-6k for midbass. mid and tweet in the pillars. midbass in the door. I might go with the tweeters in the sails and mid in the pillar, but that I will decide when I have the drivers in my hands and can play with them. Rear fill - cdt crm-3k (run 300hz to 3000hz) located in the rear door stock location sub stage- keeping the FI Q15 sealed in the spare tire area in roughly a 2.2-2.5 cu.ft box. Amps- zapco st-4xp for mids and tweets, 2nd zapco st-4xp for midbass and rear fill. Scar rp2000.1 for sub duty. Dsp- sticking to the minidsp c-dsp 8x12v2 head unit- I'm thinking of going with a kenwood excelon ddx396 double din with the idatalink maestro RR plus my Fiio M9 through spdif for those true sq listening sessions. power: I plan to upgrade to a mechman 240 amp HO alt with new battery. I think it's a group 34 in the car now. Considering a second battery mounted in the driver rear trunk area. Plus the usual: big 3, dual 0 guage to the rear, circuit breakers, fuse blocks, ground distribution, and quality RCA's. Sound deadening: roadkill expert on the outer door skins and floors, roadkill ultimate on inner skins, roof, behind the pillars, and trunk floor. plus DEI boom mat spray under the car and in the wheel wells. Let's face it. Hondas are beer cans on wheels so a lot of treatment will be needed. Let me know what you all think. Do you think I "NEED" the second battery? Notes on driver choice... all input welcome. Should also note I have Peerless xt25-4 (small neo version), Peerless ne95-4, and Dayton RS180-4 from previous builds that could be used here.
  13. https://youtu.be/jV69Z8IQRFA <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/jV69Z8IQRFA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
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