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BrokeEF

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About BrokeEF

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  1. I know it, but its super annoying not having enough space. Could be worse of course! Sean
  2. I know, I know. It is pretty bad, but unfortunately this car gets driven every single day and lives outside. I need a place with a bigger garage so I can keep the daily nice. As it is I can barely get the racecar and the wife's car in there, and that is usually only during winter. Most of the time her car is parked outside too. Sean
  3. Well I figured I would give you guys an update real quick. Lets start with some before pics. I had ordered some wire and lugs from Sky High Car Audio as well as a Northstar 27F battery. I also got a new alternator and belt from Rockauto. Everything showed up except the 4ga terminals with 1/4" hole. Sky High took care of this for me, but between that and the battery being too large I only did the alternator and belt the first weekend. I ordered the correct 24F battery, and contacted Sky High about the terminals which they got out right away. Lets check out some of the parts! Jims Machine Workx battery terminals with some Sky High copper lugs Sky High 4ga and 8ga wire Lugs and wire (before I got the missing 4ga 1/4" lugs) Here is the correct 24F (BTW the car takes a 51R, but thats another story) next to the too long 27F 24F with the new terminals Crimped lug with some shrink tubing ready to go on Battery fits like a glove New 4ga to the alternator. You can see I still have the OEM wire as well. Long story short I couldn't get to the loom for all of the factory wiring, so to play it safe I left all of the OEM connections in place. New grounds. Factory was only one 4ga to the body. I redid that (cleaned the paint off of the contact point) and added a 4ga to the transmission on top of the factory ground. Later I will change the two factory grounds to new 8ga wire. Positive side. Here you can see the two wires that were landed on the battery from the factory. The white 6ga that ran to the fuse block under hood (that uses a odd terminal so the wire can feed from the bottom), and the black with yellow stripe 4ga that I assume goes to the starter. The factory alternator wire (8ga) did not have a direct connection to the battery. Then you have the new 4ga I ran from the alternator directly to the battery, and a power from my HID relays. Whole battery shot. I will make a nicer tiedown later, I just used the stock one for now. Here is the factory positive terminal I took off the car! And lastly a whole bay shot showing how dirty my car is Its nothing special, but so far my problem seems to be fixed and when I put a system in the car I wont have to worry about power. Thanks for all the help guys! Sean
  4. While I have some experts around, what size should I go with for my big 3? Again, I am not sure on what amps I will be using but likely around 1k for the sub, and around 100x4 for mids and highs. Seems like doing 1/0 would be a bit overkill? Should I run 1/0 to the back for my amps, or again is that overkill? Thanks, Sean
  5. Yesterday when I pulled in the driveway I tried messing with the key quite a bit to see if I could get it to do anything. I will probably replace it just to cover all the bases, but for now I just ordered an alternator and a Group 27F Northstar AGM battery. Next up I need to figure out wiring and terminals and get that stuff ordered up as well.
  6. Allow me to clarify a bit. The car right now is 100% stock. It IS turning off and on, but very randomly. Looking around the internet it could possibly be any of the following; Bad grounds I cleaned up the grounds the last time it happened and it was good for months Internal short in the battery Internal short in the alternator Problem with ignition switch There are some other ideas like bad ECU, bad fuel pump, etc. but those don't explain losing ALL power. I have a feeling it is something in the battery, alternator, or possibly the wiring. As I said I have been planning on doing a system in the car anyway, and I figured if those are the possible issues I will just do them now and also be ready for a system. It sounds like I should get that battery from the beginning of this post, upgrade the big 3, and do a new stock alternator and I should be good for a small system. Hopefully that also fixes my problem at the same time. Sean
  7. So at approximately what power level is it a good idea to do an alternator? About how much power will that 170A support (my stock unit being rated at 130A)? I am having a strange problem with the car where it will very quickly turn 100% off (lights, engine, etc.) and then right back on. Think of flipping a switch off then on. The best I can figure it is likely a short in the battery, or possibly the alternator. Since I was planning on doing a system soon anyway, I figured I should upgrade while I am in there if it is worth it. That is why I was curious which is more critical for what I am planning instead of just blowing a bunch of money on this and not on the race car Sean
  8. I am about to start upgrading the power in my 2008 Honda Accord. I am not planning a crazy system by any means, probably under 1,500 watts total. I am going to change both the battery and the alternator as well as do the big 3. My question is which is more important? Large alternator (Mechman 170 amp, stock is 130) or big AGM battery? The stock battery (Group 24F) is not a very common size, so finding a better drop in battery is not really easy. I can build a tie down, and since I would be doing the big 3 the reverse polarity wont matter, but do I need to do all that for what I am planning? Just curious what everyone's thoughts are on power delivery. Thanks, Sean
  9. Hey guys! I just picked up a Pioneer AVH-4200NEX that I am installing in my 1993 Lexus SC400, and was wondering what rear view camera you all like. I have never installed one before, so I have no prior knowledge. I would like one that is the least obtrusive, and I also don't generally like the license plat frame style cameras. So school me on whats out there, and what you guys use! Thanks, Sean
  10. Yeah, the could have done a nice job that is for sure. There was a handful of wires that were stripped and not used, most were stripped very close to the connectors. I have seen worse, but I have also seen much better. I need to pull the pics off of my camera where I got some more detail. For now I will just throw up this quick cell phone shot of the interior. It is almost all fixed up. I ended up going with the non insulated crimp connectors with the proper crimping tool and then the heat shrink tubing that seals. I tried to undo one of the crimps because I caught the other side in my pliers and bent it. I legit tried to get it off the wire for a few minutes and ended up cutting it off. I think with the proper crimp tool, and the good heat shrink that they are very strong connections that will last. I still feel a little odd not soldering them, but almost everything I have seen says that a proper crimp connection is better in a car. I know the OEM's likely do it more for production than performance, but they also have to be sure that it will hold up and they all use crimp connections. More pics to come! I will probably end up starting an actual build thread when I get a little further along the project. When I do I will be sure to add a link in here as well. Sean
  11. 1993 Lexus SC400. Alarm was a Viper V60 that was installed in 97 I believe. It never worked since I got the car, and the other day I had to charge the battery since it died from sitting and it started going off. That is when I found out it had three horns! It also had 4 under dash switches, one of which finally allowed me to start the car after pressing it twice with the key on. Yeah, the alarm had to go Sean
  12. Just for fun, here is the pile of shit I cut out so far.
  13. OK, I may need to clarify a bit here. I am removing (and not replacing) and existing alarm wiring. So they have already windowed factory wiring, and also cut factory wiring. I am mostly trying to figure the best method for connecting two straight pieces of wire end to end. Thank you, Sean
  14. Well I just got done ripping the old ass alarm/remote start out of my car, and now I have the fun task of fixing all of the chopped up wiring. I have always been a solder and shrink tube guy, but I have seen that its not really the best practice in a car. This car will be a high HP street driven/track car, so reliable wiring is a must. Just curious what method I should use to put this all back together. They seemed to mostly window the stock wiring, and just wrap the wire around it. No solder, just some electrical tape on top. Some of them are kinda close to the connectors too, so whatever I do should be really fun I wonder how hard some of these pins would be to find.... Anyway, kind of a random question but lets hear what you guys think. Sean
  15. Thanks! I have always liked these cars, and really lucked out stumbling onto one that was so clean. The head unit I listed is a double din screen, but it is good to hear good things about Pioneer. From what I have found it seems like you get the most bang for your buck with Pioneer. I have mostly used Alpine in the past, but their screens are very expensive in comparison. Since this isn't a competition build, and is only a weekend car I cant justify the added cost. If anything I will add a DSP later if I feel it needs something. I was planning on using the FAST rings actually! My issue with going component is mounting the tweeter. First up I know that you want the tweeter close to the mid for the best sound. My car like most others with factory components has the tweeter up by the mirrors. Not the best location, and I would want to put them there to keep them hidden. Speaking of hidden, I don't think I will be able to fit aftermarket tweeters behind the stock grille anyway. I had thought about fiber glassing the lower part of the door to hold 6.5" components but again this ins't a car where the stereo is the main priority so I reigned in the plan some. Trying to keep this system nice, but budget friendly has been hard. I will look at some bad ass sub, then need a big amp for it, then need better interiors to keep up, and a bigger amp to power those… I am trying to keep it simple, but sounding as good as possible within my limitations. Weight is also somewhat of a concern since this car is going to be raced as well. Obviously no system is best in that regard, but it will be a street car so that isn’t an option. Looking over my list, and keeping the prices of those items in mind, should anything change? For example, should I spend $50 more and get some other speakers that are significantly better? Or don’t use those amps because the signal distorts early. I know enough about this stuff to be dangerous, so I need some guidance before I spend all this money. I think I have a good set up picked out, but it could just as easily be complete junk or very mismatched. I don’t think 6.5’s would work well in these doors. Like I said I would do them if I decided to mod the door panel and mount them differently. The way these doors are 5.25” is about as big as I feel is worthwhile in the stock location. If I was doing rears, I would do 6.5’s but I don’t plan on running rears. I have seen a few different convertible speakers, but I think it’s best to pick component or coaxial from the get go. For example, JL has the C3 series which are convertible, but the C5’s are MUCH better speakers so I would rather just go with them. Not that all of the convertible speakers are bad. I just know that I won’t change them after the install. Unless there is some problem, or it just sounds like complete shit, I won’t be changing things around after the install. Thank for the replies so far, keep em coming guys! When I start doing the install I will make a build thread on here as well. Sean
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