tomlintm
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Posts posted by tomlintm
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4 minutes ago, Crazy 8s Drums said:
Are you seriously using your head unit for mids and highs? Damn.... You been chasing that 150 for all these years and in all those years you didnt think to make your gear do anything more than shake your car to pieces? Damn... You need to start paying attention and stop fighting those who are trying to help you.
not trying to fight i have always been this way its how i learn from my mistakes dont take it personaly
when i do bass competition i use test tones to get my dbl so having mids and highs wouldent help me at all so i dont bother unless im wrong
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6 minutes ago, Joshdashef said:
I second SMD fuse blocks/distro blocks. They are more expensive than any other alternative but if your running multiple amps and accessories they are worth the extra. Quality and clean looking. I just put in 2 dual fuse blocks from SMD and they are amazing compared to my previous sky high fuse blocks...
i am only running one amp not 2 but i dont think that matters does it and what size fuse do you run
10 minutes ago, Crazy 8s Drums said:very nice info i do like how he made thoes cables
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29 minutes ago, Crazy 8s Drums said:
I used these terminals...
I should have gotten a crimper like this one (but went with something different that made me realize I should have gotten the hydraulic one.)
The distribution blocks that bcbrassard used are SMD products that you can buy through Steve Meade's site. They are not the least expensive route but they are a bulletproof design that will last a lifetime and deliver top-class performance. If you get a different car later you can reuse them. A good investment. There are other brands you can go with, just be careful with the quality. My personal set up is much simpler and smaller than yours so I went with different gear.
wait whats wrong with the ones i have in my car now besides the wires being to damn long lol
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7 minutes ago, Crazy 8s Drums said:
You don't have to mimic his stuff. Just note how he has everything connected and what it is connected to; like the fuse blocks and the ring terminals and the blocks on the batteries, that kind of thing. He has overbuilt his wiring set up, to build a rock solid foundation with room to grow. ( I don't know if that was what he was thinking really, I am just postulating. It is a smart move.) The actual cable you currently have will likely be just fine but you'll need to use new terminals, which aren't terribly expensive but will need a crimper appropriate for the size. You can buy them for about $40 on amazon. Having such tools will help you over the long haul too. Owning your own tools is always a smart investment. Take care of them too.
I personally went with 1/0 100% copper welding wire. It cost a little bit less, but is a bit stiffer and doesn't come in a variety of colors...just red or black....which is fine because I put colored PET sleeving over it and it looks killer now! For performance, it delivers big time! By all accounts, it's performance is the best. Invest in proper fusing too. It isn't very expensive and you can't have too many fuses in the system. All of it will be much less expensive than replacing a charred Acura and a bunch of crispy gear, for sure.
Start taking measurements of your trunk and your gear and start thinking about how you might arrange things to be most efficient for you. Draw stuff out on paper and keep planning it out until you settle on what you would like the most. Definitely check out some of the other folks builds here on the forum. There is a whole section dedicated to it. You will surely get great ideas from them. I sure did!
hmm what termeral do you suggest i should get there is so many of them its hard to deside whats your opinion on them
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51 minutes ago, Crazy 8s Drums said:
While there are quite a few fellows here with great expertise in installing, RCBrassard hs been recently reworking his killer Lancer and has put up some excellent images of his work. I would say that his work is a great representation of quality practices and you can use it as a reference for your own build. His set up has many similarities to what you are doing with your Acura.
You are, after all, driving an Acura which was a beautiful car to begin with and styled very handsomely. Do it some justice by putting in some effort in making your audio system on-par with the Acura quality. Basically, show it some love and it will show you some love back.
This channel at Youtube, 'Car Audio Fabrication', goes over a variety of subjects and Mark demonstrates some of the best-practice techniques to produce amazing systems. He has a huge set of tools to work with, but you won't need all of those tools to do your job right and safely.
i looked at the for and wow he did a amazing job on his build but the problem is the box is to big for me to mount my batteries the same as his in my trunk but the termenals he has i want to get there awsome looking and would work out great for me
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1 hour ago, Crazy 8s Drums said:
Not saying this to sound like a jerk or a pompous a-hole, but it is my opinion that you need to redo a whole lot of your install and do it right...for safety and performance. You are going to need to pull all of it out anyway to do soundproofing so this will be the best time to redesign your install. Use the right gear too...use proper distribution blocks / terminals...use proper crimping technique...(buy a $40 hydro crimper and proper terminals, heatshrink, techflex sleeving etc..). This will provide a much better foundation from which you can then work those amplifiers to their fullest capabilities.
The install and cabling can, and will, make or break the system's performance. Invest in it properly. I can link to some Youtube channels that you can reference for best-practices techniques if you wish.
Again, this is not intended as an insult. I aim to help you be safe and achieve your goals...and this will make your gear sound a lot better. Your stuff is a fire waiting to happen.
well i would love to no what needs to be redone so i can fix my mistakes and make my self better as a installer and tell me what gear you recommend for my needs that would help a whole lot
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8 hours ago, mathewyocham said:
Sorry didnt look at pics close just kinda skimmed. U could always run it under the car up against the bottom or cut some holes in the firewall. Either way i doubt youll ever see 150s without upgrading electric, more power, and sound deadening.
my list of my experience and history of having subs
i had 2 kicker comp vr 12s on a 1200 kicker amp in a sealed box doing 146 in a trunk. same speakers were in a dodge neon doing almost 147 what was funny is i gone to the last car wars down in hollywoody florida and the meter was so uncalabrated it said i hit a 151 lol and the other funny part was the guy had to sit in the car with me and point the mic at the windowshield lmao and i won the compete and got 500$ and a trophie for it and ppl are so pissed and confused at the same time but it was fun non the less
also had 2 soundstream splx 12D2 on a x3.71 soundstream amp added 2 batteries and stuff in the same sealed box yes i inverted them and yes the box was the bottleneck of the system and yes i blow the subs b/c of that box but i did a 144 with them sad day at SBN but loud non the less also lol
my next build was in a acrua 2003 3.2TL with 2 cresendo forte 12D2 on the same x3.71 soundstream amp(R.I.P) and this time i had a nice ported box which was made for SA-12 from what i gather but i was doing 146-147s with them and there only entry level subs but blown the amp. that thing was a monster. but replace it with a scar RP2000.1 mono and i was still doing it 146s with a smaller amp but blown mosfet in it b/c it cant handle the 0.5ohm load i was thrown at it but fans are your friend i found out lol anyways i gone to my first car show in years and for some reason idk if it was b.c it was ranning cold but i did a 144 i was pissed. so after words i started trying to figure out what why and found out 1 of my batteries in my trunks was bad so i replaced it. then i started to upgrade my system new amp speakers couldent handle the banda blown them lol and now im have the scar vxf 12D2 facing in to the cab
i no what you all might say the best i can probably do is 147-148 but hey my goal is getting closer and closer
maybe a better tuned box need to get that checked out lol also a better but now with good gear the only thing i need to focus on is the little stuff like sound deading and stuff like that i want that 150dbl its so close i can taste it but yet so far
yes i no i need a bigger alt im still looking in to that im thinking 250amp+ alt im seeing in the future
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2 hours ago, mathewyocham said:
You could get another skar rp2k and run one to each sub wired to 1 ohm each. Just gain match them. Regardless u need to at least add 1 more run of 0 gauge to the back and upgrade your alt. Also sound deaden like crazy! Flex kills db. Also if you can fire the subs forward into the cab with port forward and seal it off from the trunk youll increase output alot.
if you look at the pics i posted the subs and port are facing forward in to the cab i already priced out a 250amp alt and how would i hook up the second run of 1/0 in my trunk never ran that much before so im curious i also priced out sound deading
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4 minutes ago, Crazy 8s Drums said:
From what many of the hard hitters here at this site have said, it may be quite a chore to get 150db out of a pair of woofers in the trunk. You might not be able to do it with those woofers.
My opinion, from not being an SPL kind of guy, would be to make what you have sound as great as you can by paying attention to all the details..such as the wiring and the soundproofing and the tuning of the gear...so that you will most enjoy what you currently have and become more familiar with the art of it. Chasing a db rating is like chasing a rabbit down a hole...a very expensive hole.
oh i no and i been chasing my 150dbl for almost 5-10 years now add and upgrading as i see fit. i want my car to be competition/family car since its the only car i have and to stay stock as much as possable with these new subs i have i have no idea what the dbl i am doing now with them i need to get them metered for sure so i no what i am doing and go from there i will add a video of them playing so you can see what it sounds like
but please if you think of anything i can do to help me make it to 150dbl i would sure like to no if you anyone please tell them to come my way and help
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1 minute ago, Crazy 8s Drums said:
I missed the pics today. Looking through them now I can say that your wiring needs some refinement. It may not result in more power but it will result in better reliability and safety. A charred cinder on the side of the road will make exactly 0 db.
ya i no its a messy job
but before i redo the entire wireing i want to add the stuff to add dbl as i redo the wiring
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2 minutes ago, Crazy 8s Drums said:
Even with the Banda amp, your ride should be bangin hard. If it isn't as loud as you feel it should be, you may look into doing an in-depth soundproofing of your car. At 3000w the whole freakin car should be shaking. Getting all those resonating parts to stop resonating within audible frequencies will result in great usable db in the car and it will sound a lot better too. You may also consider upgrading your power and ground cables beefed up to OFC and maybe 2/0 instead of that CCA stuff you have. Look at welding wire on Amazon as it works great and is a better value. You might also look for some folks in your location that are into car audio and talk to them about what to do. They will be able to see your car in person, whereas we can't really do here on the interwebz.
oh it is hitting really hard the car wants to fall apart i want to get as much out of it as i can so i can reach my goal of 150dbl
the wire is ofc i did add a few pics for you to take a look at
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39 minutes ago, Crazy 8s Drums said:
Your Skar rp2000.1 probably won't last long wired to 0.5 ohms though. Maybe you shouldn't try it.
i have already ran that amp at .5ohms and had to send it in for repairs thru a audio place i no for blown mosfets lol
32 minutes ago, Crazy 8s Drums said:At a 2 ohm load, this Wolfram amp may be a better choice for your subs.
now thats a bad ass amp it the same price as i payed for my banda amp the wolf on it really draws me to it
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looks like im running ofc not cca cable
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i hope this helps you understand what is going on
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7 hours ago, Joshdashef said:
I can't help with box knowledge but I am sure someone else can.
However, when it comes to your question about fusing; you should always fuse for the wire size and length to prevent excess current heating up the wire and fire. In saying that, you should fuse before and after you enter a battery and before you enter your amp.
Now when you say you have two 200 amp fuses does that mean you have them hooked up one after the hood battery and one before the trunk batteries? or you have two runs of 1/0 each fused after the first battery with 200 amp fuses? Which in case I suggest adding another fuse before you enter your rear batteries.
If you have it in the first mentioned format then your wire will be protected for up to 200 amps not 400, but it only matters what your wire can take. Since you have 1/0 I take it your running CCA 1/0 since your only using 200 amp fuses? If your using OFC or copper you should be able to step that up some but you should research your brands wire to be safe. Also if your wondering what size fuse to use to go into your amp you should look at the manufacturers recommendations.
https://www.bandaaudiopartsusa.com/online-store/ICE-X-3002-p89213005 seems to show an average musical current draw of 155 A.
I use this post for my planning. Might help you out but bare in mind the type of wire you use changes these numbers so always double check otherwise your fuses are useless.
yes i only have one run of 1/0 going from my front battery to my rear batteries all wires going from the engine bay to the trunk is cca wire the wires connecting the rear batteries together are copper based and the wires going to my amp are cca with no fuses going from the rear batteries to the amp
with that said do you think im restricting the currect from the front to the back batteries with the 200 amp fuses b/c i was thinking completly removing fuses all together or up the fuse to maybe 2 500 amp fuses
7 hours ago, Crazy 8s Drums said:A fuse acts as a weakest link in the chain...even though you have 2x 200amp fuses, that will still only allow 200 amps to flow through the cable. 200 amps is not enough to supply power to that Banda amp to deliver it's (supposedly) rated power of 3000w at 2ohms. The amplifier's 4ga (+) and (-) inputs are not sufficient to handle that kind of wattage at the amp's efficiency either. Basically, the Banda amplifier is not suitable for a typical car environment and probably won't deliver what you are expecting from it.
Watch this...
the amp has 1/0 to 4gauge reducers for the power and ground with no fuses between so i should be getting enough power
i want to point out also i have the banda ice x 3002 line of amps.which i think is a redesign of that amp so it might have been improved not sure
6 hours ago, Crazy 8s Drums said:This Skar amp is perhaps more in tune with the subs you have...
...but it does not state to be rated at the 1/2 ohm load you may have those subs wired to. I have seen some folks state that their Skar amps handle 0.5 ohm loads fine but Skar doesn't seem to back that up. It most likely won't handle that with your restricted power either. This puts you in a difficult position to be in...you don't have the proper amplifier or the proper subwoofers to achieve either's ideal scenario. You'll probably want to put in some diligent research into this so that you can make better choices in the future.
can you explain more what you mean. from what i read about the vxf-12 there 1500 rms each for compatition.they can handle alot of power. the amp is 3k so the amp should be enough power. i have a scar rp2000.1 in my closet but no were near the power i need to push these beast of subs lol
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my box is made out of plywood spec
36wx13.5hx20d
port 12hx4.5w14.75L1x9L2
so i have no clue what the port is tuned for b/c i heard RE Audio box building software is no good to use unless im wrong
2 Scar Audio VXF-12D2
BANDA ICE 3002 mono block amp
3 batteries 1 under the hood and 2 in the rear 1/0 gauge wire
big 3 upgrade
on a stock 105amp alt (i no i need to upgrade my alt but i barelly got below 12.5v which impressive lol)
so any advice will be grate
also i hav 2 200 amp fuse on my power wire on after the front batterie and before the rear batteries does that me it adds up to 400 amp or does it stay the same at 200amp i been wondering if i need to get bigger fuses or not
need help to get louder
in SKAR AUDIO - (READ ONLY ARCHIVE)
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ya thats true i never though about that way