Mrbubbles00482
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Posts posted by Mrbubbles00482
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400 OBO plus actual shipping. I have a bike I want paid off so all my income goes to my Wagon. Can't find these cheaper then 200$ apiece on ebay, I just want em' gone.
If someone buys these I'll pull out pics of stuff so far I haven't posted...lol (wagon build hasn't been updated in like 6 months)
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Bump, prices are negotiable.
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Okay.
Got these with the intent of running dual charging system. Got a full time job as an installer a week later, so now I get stuff at dealer cost and have decided to go another route.
I traded some kineticks for them. These have NEVER been in a vehicle on an 18v alt, just been sitting in my shop on the charger every once and a while.
Not willing to separate, selling as a hole package.
450 OBO + actual shipping. shipping to CONUS.
PM or EMAIL at [email protected] for questions, comments, concerns or offers. Payment will be through paypal.
Batterys resting at 17.12v when checked Marched 28th @ 10:30 PM
Battery specs
S16V
BCI Group Size 24
Crank Amps @ 32° F : 650
Cold Crank Amps @ 0° F : 550
Reserve Capacity 75 min @ 25 amps
Length 10 3/16"
Width 6 3/8"
Height 9 1/8"
Wet Weight 42 lbs.
Pics
Pakcage
Battery one
Battery two
Charger functioning
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it may be. i was just judging by the pic. that pic looks like its running in 800 x 600
Nah it's running 1028x768 & 75hz refresh.
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If I remember right this one is 1080P 60hz.
Computer is hooked up VGA, xbox is running component, and the my cable TV is hooked up.
I'll be ordering a new processor soon, along with a new graphics card with HDMI output.
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So my mom got a new 42" HDTV today, so I got the 32"
Seeing as how my cable line in my room is right in the corner, why not hook up everything to one television?
Running Xbox360 on the component, Computer on the VGA (Nvidia GeForce 8500GT PCI express) and then the cable line in, with audio out to the sony stereo system. Everything uses the TV and stereo as speaker out except the computer, kept my Logitech setup for it.
Pics
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nice box man, i just did subs forward port sidefiring in my ext cab f150 and it slams!
Thanks man, this is probably one of the best I've done.
It's 4.4 gross, 3.7 net after all displacement tuned to 40hz. It slams pretty hard for what it is, subs are dual 2's wired in series, then paralleled back to the amp to achieve a 1.3ohm load, which after box rise its sitting at 2 on the dot.
I have a video I'm going to see if its worth uploading.
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nice.
one of my favorite modernish amps.
Ya, it is a beast. Before this setup it was on 2 Cadence daytona 12's at 1/2ohm. Stock electrical, one battery, and shut off only once from thermal protect (Yes I know that is horrible electrical for 1/2 ohm, but people don't listen to me here...lol)
He got these tens for a good deal, considering they aren't made anymore, and are some of the best that cerwin vega put out underneath the stroker and stroker pro. He wants to run DC sound lab, but he is waiting for the level 6. Also can't remove his back seat till he graduates college in February.
Anyways, it's in and playing.
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is that the mtx rated for 3kw+??
Ya, it is.
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Few pics. Wood cut.
Equipment
Had to take a break to warm up. Building boxes in 30 degree weather sucks.
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Buddy bought some tens today. Has this amp already.
Setup-
(3) Cerwin vega Vmax tens (the old silver ones)
MTX 92001
0/1 knukonceptz
Eclipse CD3100
Building now, I'll have pics in a few hours when we finish. Box is 4.4^3ft before displacement tuned to 40hz, 14^2 inches of port area per cubic foot.
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The 2 15's would probably be best on that power.
2600 isn't much for a DC lvl5 (Thor has proved they can handle quite a bit more)
It isn't much for a BTL either.
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Well, things didn't go like we wanted.
Low voltage had one of the amps cutting out half way through our run.
Tuned to low, peak was at 36hz O.O
Blew open a corner.
Things just need to be addressed. Which is expected for a 4 day build ya know?
I seem to have misplaced the car pics....
BUT does anyone want pics from the hot body contest? =]
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Ok so I traded back the DD 9917 to my boss for the station wagon.
Well, he says, lets build a wall for this weekends Usaci comp. Even though we don't compete in Usaci anymore, there is a show close so.
Well turns out, he is going to let me run it the rest of the MECA season, since I have 15 points already, and the car stays in the same class.
Wall 12ish cubic feet, external port tuned to 34hz.
2 DD 9917's Dual 2.
2 Power acoustik 5500D's
2 Kinetik HC2000's
Finished pics and number tonight. Bout to leave for the show.
Oh ya, I built this in 3 days, solid as a rock. This is just for this weekend. After that it will be brought back and glassed on the inside, internal bracing, more 0/1, and more batteries.
Just burping it for this weekend, and maybe some "quiet" demos =]
Got port?
Me in the box. I'm 6'1 and was pretty comfortable
Since then, while I was at my normal work, the face has been mounted, deck, batteries, and all wiring has been buttoned up. Just gotta mount the subs.
=]
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lets get some more opinnions on here about that gothic5500 amp.... im thinking about buying one from a member here.... is it a trust worthy amp at 1 ohm? will it do 2000rms+ cleanly... let get some opinnions from people with experience with the amps... not just a guessed opinnion...
What are you going to be pushing with the 5500?
The one I had, and the gothic is the same amp, just different casing. It runs fine at 1ohm, not sure about power output, but it had my 9917 moving really good.
Never got hot, never went into protect, just played and kept playin.
That amp was my third PA that I owned, good budget amp.
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Ran the power series 5500 on DD9917 at 1ohm and did fine. Had it moving pretty good also.
I never clamped it though...I wanted to but never got the chance, Mechman 170 alt, and two yellow tops never dropped below 13.8 so it had to be some power atleast...lol.
My boss still has it too, I bet he will let me borrow it to get some power numbers from it when I get my lvl4 xl 18 next week.
I'll hit back and let yall know something.
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I've delt with the same fuses (really skinny bar)
I had one of those and then a stinger 250, and they both held up fine on my DD Z1.
The 300 amp "offbrand" was maybe a quarter of the size of the stinger 250.
Who knows though, I never really pushed my Z1 to much while I had it considering it was at 2ohm. So who knows.
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downloading now, my interentz is slowz =[
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Sooooo, I was looking for some HID's for my 1987 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser station wagon.
It has 4 bulbs, a set of lows and a set of highs. I've worked with HID's a little bit from the shop I use to work at, and I am kinda familiar with relays, and I'm aware that cutting and hard wiring is going to need to be done.
I just need to know which kit I will need. My boss told me I was going to need the H4 bulb kit for it.
Housings won't be a problem either, I can get a halogen bulb reflector housing for my car, and then just swap the halogen bulb for the HID.
Any help would be great. Thanks.
EDIT- The housings are H4656 and the projector housings I can get hold an H4 bulb. What are the differences in bulbs? I know the 9006 9007 bulbs are for GM chevy cars and trucks. So are the different bulbs just for different specific vehicles?
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Will it go up in smoke going past 16v's?
I read somewhere, I think over on *** that they can handle 15, but I've never seen anything above that..
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15.7v float = 1.9625v/cell
Would you buy a 12v battery that was floating at 11.775?
DEFINITELY load test them. Dunno if your local autoparts store will be able to help you here, they mightn't like the 16v-ness. Also the charger is obviously not doing its job if they're floating that low.
Try and get a charge on them, then hook an amp up to one and play a tone (you'll need a woofer connected to get an accurate result) while watching the voltage at the inputs.
They may need a charge at 20v+ to kinda kick-start them.
Thank you for the comparison to a 12v batt, I didn't look at it that way lol.
Well they havn't been hooked up on the charger in a long time, they have just been at 15.7. But I will go buy there tomorrow and parallel them, and throw them both on the charger for a while and see what I can't get them up too. If I can get them too a good 18ish volts then I'll load test them.
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Not too long ago you could pick up those turbo start 16volt batts for like $75 brand new. Depending on what you paid for the Kinetik's it's a bad trade imo.
Cheapest I can find them is 219 from axion power.
Those Kinetiks go for about 150 a piece I think.My boss can get the HC2000's at dealer cost for 210. So he won't take but about 170 or 180 for my batts because they are used and not under warrenty anymore (i think, gotta check on that)
if they load test fine, then it's up to you, you should find out what those batts are going for, i know your kinetiks are pretty expensive, so id go off price, i know you want 16 volt batts, but it may not be worth it, and also find the price of the charger as wellI bought my Kinetiks for 250, they turbo starts for for 220, and the charger for 299.
16 volt batts should rest at 17.2 volts. If those have been sitting at 15.7 volts for long, they are probably pretty sulfated and might not have much life left.Ya..Like I said they have never been hooked up to an 18v+ alt to charge, just the charger. He ordered them for a guy, and when they got here the guy figured out he had to have a bigger alt and then didn't want the batteries.
Ways to check for this? Load test? (don't know how to go about doing that)
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load test the batts first just to make sure they are good
How would I go about doing that?
They should be good, they are brand new not wired to a car yet, just been on the charger.
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I have 3 Kinetik HC2000's
My old boss at the shop has 2 Turbo start S16v batteries with the charger.
Batts are floating at 15.71 apiece, and the charger is fully functional.
I don't need the HC2000's anymore, but I'm about to start buying for my 16v system.
What you guys think, straight trade no cash.
Turbo start 16v batteries and charger
in For Sale: Car audio related equipment only
Posted
Bump.
Trade for 18" sub, CS144 large case alt high output, throw me an offer? lol.