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Mrbubbles00482

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Posts posted by Mrbubbles00482

  1. Ok so electrical is not a problem. I can upgrade alts, more batts, more 0/1 so its not really that big of a problem.

    I need suggestions on amps...the subs are 9918 Dual 2 ohm, and will be in a wall.

    So either.. One amp that is 0.5 ohm stable with around 6 to 8kw OR one amp at 2 ohm that has 6-8kw

    If I go two amps I can master/slave them at 1 ohm each, so 1 amp per sub.

    I've been looking at the Soundstream XXX series, at the 6500D's. At 14 volts they are rated at ~4450watts, but at 16 they are rated at 6500.

    Any suggestions would be great.

    Keep in mind this is a daily driver, the alternator already runs at 15 volts, so my MLA module will be set at 15 for low, and 16.3 for high.

    I know more batteries is a must, and more runs of 0/1, which won't be a problem.

    Start throwing suggestions!

    =]

  2. Ya..it does look like a pretty solid amp..

    I just need something around 5-6kw true power...electrical system isn't a problem I can build mine up more.

    I just thought I would throw this amp out there and see what you guys thought...655 isn't bad for a 5kw amplifier.

    Oh ya, I'm running a Power Acoustik 5500D at the moment...supposedly 3200 watts at 1 ohm..

    If the clif designs does 5200 at 1 ohm...or close to it 14 volts then Ima go for it.

  3. From what you just mentioned, you basically confirmed what I was thinking... You have the wrong pulley on the alternator, and they sold you the wrong belt, so basically you have the same problem, but in reverse.. Now the belt fits the alternator pulley, but it will start slipping on the crank and waterpump pulley.

    The only manufacturer to my knowledge that makes 15/32 belts now is Goodyear, my suggestion would be to go to NAPA, get the correct Goodyear belt (probably $15-$18, not $8) and put your old pulley on the new alt, and your problem will go away..

    In my years working on vehicles, I've seen this same crap literally hundreds of times.... Rob

    Alrighty, sounds good...I'll swing by and get a belt tomorrow, when I took the old original belt off it was pretty beat up.

    Then I'll just take both the alts down to one of the local shops and have them do the pulley swap...I don't have an impact wrench to do it.. =/

    Thanks for all the help though Rob

  4. I will almost guarantee that you have either the wrong pulley on the alternator, or wrong belt on the car, or both... Most GM vehicles had 15/32" belts, not 3/8" belts and at the same time, most aftermarket pulleys are made for 3/8" belts... The top of the belt should sit exactly level at the top of the *V* of the pulley, it it sits above the top of the pulley, you have the wrong pulley and correct belt, it it sits below the top of the pulley, you may have the wrong belt and correct pulley... If by chance it does sit exactly level, it just may need to be tightened...

    On GM vehicles with single V belts, if you dont have the correct belt/pulley combo it doesnt matter what alterantor you have on there whether its stock or anyones HO, the belt will slip!

    We make our own 15/32" pulleys for the GM vehicles because literally every single aftermarket pulley for GM vehicles is for 3/8" belts and they WONT work when you have 15/32" belts on your car..

    Very, very, very common problem on GM cars and trucks...

    Alrighty...I bought a new belt today for like 8 bucks at autozone so ill see how the old one is matching up and how the new one matches up...

    If its the wrong pulley I should be able to do a pulley swap from my old stock alt to the new one..Just got to get an impact wrench =/

  5. Man I am posting in this section a lot lately...lol

    Ok here is whats up, I have a mechman 170 high output alt, big 3 in 0/1, duralast gold top up front, optima yellow top in back, one run of + and one - of 0/1 from front to back battery, PowerAcoustik power series 5500D (supposedly 3200 at 1 ohm) on a DD 9918c

    The thing is when I start the car up, the alternator squeals...but then it stops once the car picks up in idle...but then at idle if I put the system to full tilt the alternator starts squealing again, and then stops when I kill my bass....

    Going down the road at 35 mph + though with the system at full tilt it doesn't squeal though...which is weird.

    Everything still seems to be working properly though...at full tilt my lights don't dim one bit. I haven't taken a volt meter to it yet, but I will soon just to see what my voltage drop is.

    When it first started doing this I pulled the alternator up a hair to tighten the belt and it stopped a bit...but then started up again recently.

    Any suggestions?

  6. Ok so my friend has a 2005 mazda 3, with the 2.3lt engine...

    He has 2 Cadence Daytona 12's on a MTX 9200, I think his birthsheet said 3700 watts at 1 ohm or something like that..

    Thing is though he needs a high output alternator...he has 2 yellow tops already with 0/1 leads on them...no big 3 yet, planning on doing that when we get an alt...

    I can't seem to find one though...any help guys?

  7. So I'm looking for an amp to push my DD 9917 at 1ohm, and I already have some sundown amps, so I was looking at the 3000D so I have all the same amps.

    My electrical consists of a MECHMAN 170 amp alternator, two optima yellow tops, one up front one in back, big 3 done in all 0/1 and two runs of 0/1 connecting the two batteries (1 + 1 -)

    I will probably get a MLA module for the alternator soon to try and get a little more voltage.

    What kind of power output do yall think I'm going to get with that electrical?

  8. If like your mids and highs really bright go with rockford. Im running two sets of Punch P162s components in my front doors off of a sundown 100.4 and they handle the power like its nothing.

    For an example, currently I have no subs and only one fiberglass door finished so thats two 6.5's and 4 tweets is all I have in my car, and I've been giving demo's with that blowing people away lol

  9. Ok I check the battery this morning and it rests at 12.57 volts. The alternator is putting out 14.88 volts when functioning properly, but I didn't wait to see what the output was when the light comes on because I know it drops to 12.5.

    I also checked the belt which did not seem to be worn, and i checked the front of the alternator for belt residue which there was none.

    Mechman thinks its and internal short when the alternator is getting hot, which seems like what its boiling down to.

    I guess its time for a new alternator. =/

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