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About jeshua

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  1. this is my setup. I plan on redoing this because i mean look at it . the Boxes are kinda jank, kinda embarrassed showing the amplifier box BUT i agree it looks bad , but it sounds good. i took quality time setting gains and tuning the processor I can set it to a comforting 20 volume or 40 if i want to hear it 4 houses down. with the doors shut. id much rather not take pictures of a bare speakerbox so i got a somewhat blueprint of what i did Towers being around 2.6 sq'ft and the big box being 2.9 sq'ft But there you go. But now that this is out the way i plan on making a Shadowbox for this using New 1/2" MDF led strip behind amps to light it up And i will redo wiring Zip ties n stuff make it fancy adding a acrylic facing with the speaker terminals sticking out the top the layout will be Somewhat the same but i will add fans for cooling the power converters that way i dont have a hotbox.
  2. they are a discontinued model of Stadium field lighting , this model is a 277V 600w 180 fieldview dimmable model, Though without the power supply being 36 volt , i just had to find a way to power it without those power supplies Model# VI-M-256-750-5w-vl-56-n06-n-g i cant take a picture of the information because the camera literally doesnt have quality to see text that small. so i got the name logo on glass piece instead. i might be off on my Lm a watt but my cheap amperage meter says When im powering 1 bar, 4.5ampon each side At 36 volt, But on the 14 volt side it says 18 amps. im not Entirely sure if those readings are correct but Even my power supply rated at 20 amps Dies trying to power these converters on test, but when running a on a vehicle they work but get Super hot. mostlikely them only drawing 18 amps is something to do with the LED boards regulators sensing their is a low voltage , and adjusting accordingly.i do notice they dim out a bit when i leave it on for more then 10 mins. but a first turn on these things turn my normal room or a driveway into a daylight zone , its so bright inside a closed room that i have a welding mask to see what im doing since i dont want to burn my eyes again.
  3. leme take picture,my camera is junk but these lights together are 68k lumens. Draws around 17 amps a set i find if i have the vehicle started just the voltage going from 11 v to 14.5 v causes it to only draw around 15 amps a piece. so a 30 amp driver works. i might just get 1 for each bar, since they demand power. And yea it kinda defeats the purpose but from the sound it has it sounds alot different . better bass response n stuff makes it worth it. these are only around 3 feet in width , i love them almost got blind working on one when it turned on unexpectedly when i was looking at the circuit . but totally worth fixing them, Every single light had a bad power mosfet, second i put new ones they all started working other then the price of the power supply holding me back
  4. i buy small capacitor banks like https://www.ebay.com/itm/16V-20F-Ultracapacitor-Engine-Battery-Starter-Booster-Car-Super-Capacitor-new/323282929630?hash=item4b452a07de:m:muND5G9QkUYfHbusydy3t5g:rk:8:pf:0 And i buy the Straight model, and just solder more on as i need them. i got a 150 Farad bank for my system Even though i dont need that much power they do their job. I also say Flawed, the method i use is i find a song that just slaps , A song that hits so hard you taste metal. Not thrashing 30 hz tones but a 90+ tone that just hits you right in your heart. Then i turn my volume up and see what the voltage dip is , I add more capacitors uintil i see it dip less then 2 volts. on those hits. and Well i can turn my power off , and those capacitors work like a small battery for a good 30 minutes before actually dieing off .
  5. 300 Amp system load has taught me one thing. cheap connectors will catch fire. i only fixed mine by knowing laws of load and using a 300 amp breaker, that has lugs and not those Screw tighten holes.
  6. i have experience with lithium batteries , once they heat up thats all she wrote , . they literally drain out if they heat up, so a 16kw system i cant say it would be a bad buy just buy what you feel, theirs ' a first for everything. i for one use Capacitor banks. i have a 150 Farad capacitor bank i just purchased a ton of smaller units like https://www.ebay.com/itm/16V-20F-Ultracapacitor-Engine-Battery-Starter-Booster-Car-Super-Capacitor-new/323282929630?hash=item4b452a07de:m:muND5G9QkUYfHbusydy3t5g:rk:8:pf:0 And they do exactly what i need. Forget buying those stupid 200$ 1 farad capacitors these ones are where all the power is at .
  7. i ran a standalone Alternator, They dont run well. without a surge value of some sort like a battery , since some alternators Cant adjust amperage quick enough and you end up with sagging voltage after a bass sweep. i tried this with a 5000W inverter , so i know when the AC kicked on it caused the alternator to just fart and not do anything . they kinda need the redundancy of a battery .
  8. so recently iv' been testing a converter and well it works past my expectations . im posting this in this forums since its' related to electrical https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-Converter12-15-20-30A-150-300-400-1200-1500W-Step-up-down-Buck-Boost-NEW/192542098448?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=492643425144&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Im using the 1500W step up converter , but their are other models... i use this to do almost Everything i need with my setup, i have 1 powering my head unit , processors , Everything but amplifiers. and i Love it . that noisy alternator whizzing noise is gone, and my voltage on my main sound processing is stable. i could set it to 14.5 volt when my alternator only somehow puts out 13.8 so no matter What voltage it is it balances it for me. i tried this on my Amplifiers and they work Great considering that my 4 channel amplifier only draws 24 amps on a fuse. , so i could push it to 15.5V for the 4 channel amplifier it worked amazing i also tried this on a Alpine M500 a 13 year old amplifier at 15.5 volts and the mood was real but my issue is that amplifier taxed the converter out . wish they had a 40 amp or maybe a 50 amp model. i got some 36 volt 68000 Lumen LED bars from my brother, And i was skeptical but i wired them onto this converter and turned the voltage to 35 volts... And low and behold i have a Cheapo, power supply for them now... As the led stadium light power supply is almost 200$ this is only 27$. i did the math in my brain and purchased one Just for this led bar. A old model bar but has a 180 Degree lightfield , And it is LED safe , the supply is stable and has no buzzing or hissing sound witch is amazing i got it on a wire lead so i could connect it and use it in a truck so when we go deer hunting we dont get stunned by the nights darkness. i also tried using them on Vehicle lights, Making them stable during bass sessions and they do their job keeping them lights from dimming out But this is what i v' been doing with this converter what are your ideas on what i could use this converter for ? Also what is your opinion , is this a good or bad item to use ?
  9. maybe your electric wire running from battery is wrong guage size or to much of a guage.
  10. i didnt know where else to go but i seen it and bam.
  11. hmm check that GP audio link in that quote @akuma4u find your way around they make for every car model it seems idk if that was your model.
  12. if it's spiking just here and there . why not just add a capacitor. maybe your amplifier suffers from power surge issues. i know with my system capacitors smooth out that voltage drop enough for it to slap a few times without a distort light. i could see amperage being a issue. if it's a stock alternator . have u tried just adding a aux alternator ? looking online for the same bolt type. i mean. they Have to have a alternator to fit. or maybe one u can put somewhere i see your in canada . do u use your AC ? u could try to retro fit it in there some how. "Cough" http://gpcaraudio.com/hyundai-accent-1-5l-1999-2005-200-amp-team-gp-alternator/ "Cough"
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