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About msturg

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  1. so how should I set my gains if using the DD-1 isn't right? I'm pretty sure I set them the exact way I'm supposed to based on the instruction manual and watching countless people doing it in youtube clips
  2. It's the Kicker IQ1000.5, I'm not using the 5th channel at all I'm using the FAST brand speaker rings Crossover points, I'm not 100% sure where they are, the initial setup with the IQ amp is done by selecting what size speakers you have, kind of an active setup for dummies,. I do have my headunit set to crossover around 120Hz for the midrange.
  3. About a year ago I installed a bunch of the Kicker line in my F150 crewcab. I bought a Kicker IQ series 1000.1 amp and their 6.5" QS series components. When I installed the fronts (not running any rears), I used the foam rings and put down KnoKnoise sound deadener and covered the major holes with sheet metal and more deadener. Initially I was using the passive crossovers that come with the speakers, and last week I finally got around to bypassing these and running active with the IQ series amp. My problem is that I have to set the crossover to the point that I'm cutting out most of the lower mid range bass. I set all the gains with a DD-1 so it's not clipping, it's just like the speakers can't play very loud with any sort of lower frequency. I'm not trying to get all my bass from the fronts, as I'm running a sundown zv5 with 2500watts, BUT I would like to be able to turn down the sub at times and have a complete sound from just the front stage. If I turn down the sub now, the sound is not "tinny" but it just doesn't sound complete. I can definitely tell the bass is missing from the sound. What's sad is I can get in a new car and hear a little 6.5 "bump" better than what my truck does. What am I doing wrong here? I feel like the door is fairly sealed but these things just don't sound right. Any help is appreciated. Just want to have a really clear and loud stereo.
  4. I'm assuming by now you figured this out, but I was in the same boat as you. Just did the big 3 on my Ecoboost 2011 F150, and it wasn't particularly fun. You saying the alternator is buried, I'm assuming you also have the Eco. What I had to do was remove the driver inner wheel well, disconnect the turbo piping down there. Then go to the top and remove all of the intake piping and now that the turbo piping was loose I could move it to the side slightly. That said, I still could barely get to the alternator terminal. Ended up popping the cap off, wrangling my zero gauge down to where it needed to go and then used a whole lot extensions and a swivel bit to get the nut off and then back on again. Biggest pain was just the discomfort in removing the turbo piping for fear that I wasn't going to be able to get back on right but in reality it wasn't too bad.
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