Check out the SMD Store @!

Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

About Vexser

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Electronics, Audio, IT, Mechanics, Engineering

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. HellBilly429 - Would you really even notice much a difference between 32hz VS 34hz anways? I cant imagine the difference is night/day. When you say "Port Length 28 inches" How is that measured? A or B? ( ) I'm just trying to learn. Shredder2 - Thanks for the reply as well, I'm trying to figure out if your box-model is your own, or what HellBilly429 wrote up? Since I just see external measurements, but no port width / length and such. If it's not a model based on HellBilly's dimensions, could you add a little? I mean, I could caliper my screen and do the math but.. xD Thanks for the help. I tried messing with calculation sites and it shows I dont know what I'm doing. Crafting is the easy part for me.. Also, Could you recommend me position? Should I fire the subs + port up? Or ( To give me amp-mounting room if needed ) could I fire the port into the back of the seats, and simply pull the seat down to fully expose the port? Either way, its in the same "cabinet" There's no separate trunk. So, maybe it wont matter either-way. Guess I have a choice to make here..with 2 box-designs given to me. Unless again, that model is just a picture-form of the above!
  2. Heya! I simply need to know if this "maximum box size" is able to support a dual Sundown X8 subwoofer, and if so, I'm looking for some direction/specs, as I've never built a dual-sub system to know if port-size has to double etc etc. Vehicle: Chevy Spark 2014 LT ( Fairly small ) Subwoofer: Dual Sundown Audio X8 D4 ( VC's in parallel for 2 ohms, 2 drivers in parallel for 1 ohm total ) Amplifier: SCV-2000D ( 1-Ohm runs 2000W RMS ) Desired Tuning: 32hz, Deep lows, I listen to a lot of EDM music, and a lot of them have drawn-out lows that his waaaay down there. Idea 1: Drop the box into the spare-tire area. This has a max length of 21" and max width of 13.5", This would allow for ~16" height, which gives you 2.69 cubic feet prior-to calculating displacements. I'm 100% open to the idea of inverting the subs, so I can display the magnets, especially if the box is too-small for regular mounting. A box this size would give me plenty of room for amp mounting. Idea 2: H: 12 L: 37 W: 12.5 ( Seats are tilted back, this dimension would be to avoid a slanted box ) Idea 3: H: 15.5 L: 27 W: 11 ( Again, Seats are tilted back ) Idea 1 is the most-preferred optimal, if possible. This would give me room to mount the amps, 2nd battery, crossovers, etc. Rather the subs are in the box, or inverted sticking out the top or out the sides ( I'll build around it to make it look pretty ). Else, Idea 2 is 2nd preferred. Right now, I'm running a single, measuring at H: 11 L: 27 W: 9.75, Which I feel was "Firewood" designed ( not..properly calculated ) despite it sounds great, and hits DEEP making air move with what I'd guess is near 20hz or lower. Love the box..just want 2 for more air being displaced for more basshead fun. But the size of that box, makes me feel 2 subs, would require a box thats impossible to fit in my space.. Which suuuuucks. As I feel a dual-8 would be my closing-project to this car and make me happy with it.
  3. Well, I bought the 8" Sub thinking there was no way I could fit a high-excursion 10" or 12" in my car. So, I figured I was stuck buying the 8" sub I have now. So, I originally made this thread as a "Help - How can I improve this subwoofer!" However, when I saw some 'premade' boxes for Sundown X10V2, I saw the dimensions were very-close to what I could fit. Due to this, I got a bit excited, and was like Hey! If I can seriously fit a X10 V.2 Sub in my car, I would 'love' to Sell my 8" sub+box, and craft the 10" sub box. I actually just sold a Sundown ZV3 12" Recently, to possibly set aside to get the X10 V.2, but only if It fits. So, That's why I was requesting spec-help with the 10. If it's possible to fit that sub, I'd very much love to...As I've always wanted to have that insane excursion, I love how deep those subs sound. If the space is just far too small, Not at all possible, Then I'll scrap the idea, and play around with sub-up / other combinations as you guys suggest. Sorry if I made any confusion!
  4. So..Here's my thoughts. I always wanted to try out a Sundown X2 series sub, and experience the 30mm xmax. The smallest this is offered, is 10". If I liked my old 10", It makes sense for me to go this path, IF I can fit the box. So, Here's what I need help with. I don't know the best configs, let alone 100% certainty of calculating port size..volume deductions..etc. So, Let me break this down, and perhaps someone can help. Subwoofer Desired: Sundown Audio 10" XV.2 1500W RMS Subwoofer Model/config: D2, wired up for 1-Ohm Subwoofer Displacement: 0.21 Cubic-Feet Subwoofer Recommended Ported Box Volume: 1.5 Cubic-Feet ( Sundown's website ) Subwoofer Recommended Tuning Frequency: 32Hz Subwoofer Recommended Port Area: 24 Square Inches Amplifier ( Currently owning ): SAE-2000D -- RMS at 1-Ohm: 2000W Vehicle: Chevy Spark 2014 Hatchback Alternator: 120A Stock, 190A Singer Hairpin-style Alternator in standby. Batteries: Kinetik HC1200-REV ( 1150CCA, 40Amp-Hour, Low ESR -- 11mOhm if I recall right ) Running a pair. Wiring: All 1/0 on everything, fully prepped for an upgrade. Box type: Wedge ( Unless rectangular can do, doubting it ) Port/Sub direction: You tell me..Whats best? Up? Towards the driver ( I'll put a seat down during use, if needed ) Port type: You tell me... Whats better, Rectangular or funnel pipes Box thickness: You tell me... Never built a box for a heavy sub with 30mm excursion. half inch? 0.75"? Baffold thickness: You tell me...Again, Never built a box for such a sub. Supports needed? double up for 1 inch? Bracing? Tune frequency: Well.. 30mm excursion, its built to hit low..soooo..I presume that means 32hz or lower is best. Maximum Box Dimensions - Max Specs 1: 27" W | 15.5" H | 18.0" D1 | 11.0" D2 - Max Specs 2: 37" W | 12.0" H | 18.0" D1 | 12.6" D2 Why 2 sizes? If I keep the box below 12 inches tall, It can fit under the rear speakers, Thus allowing 37" Width. If I go above 12", I have to clear the speakers, limiting me to 27" Note: If I remove my wooden foundation floor ( Just exists to bolt to ) I can gain another 1.5" of height, if needed. I've never built a box for a sub like this. First time, so I'm new to knowing if it needs bracing, or what port type is best for that insane excursion. Hope this is enough information, to be helped out, to design a box for this sub. Or..if it's even possible with the space I have.
  5. Been into the EDM world since day 1, Last song played in the car~
  6. In the dash, my 5" speakers are pretty deep as they have really large magnets on them ( 200W rated ). Since theres no depth limits, and I have to work from the top ( means bend the foam rings in, to make them fit through ) I was thinking of stacking 2 sets of rings, and forming a "cup". I'm figuring it's good to cap the end, or even possibly add a small 'port' hole? to kind of create an enclosure. Is there any harm just leaving it as-is ( Foam ) to just absorb the sound from the rear? I mean, these hit 'some' lows, but eventually they cut-off ( digital crossover settings ) since I have the subwoofer handle the rest. I'm not trying to get bass out of these, Else I would have made a set of door pods. I'm just trying to fix the backwaves and help focus that sound. Edit: This is what the results would be. The holes arent 100% open so its good these are foam, to warp/fit. Used hotglue so the layers wouldnt seperate. The adhesive on the foam, holds them to the dash. Then I took some 1/2" Dynamat I had, and cut a thin strip and put it around the speaker, thus finally removing that gap. May put the grills back on after I mod them. Will see So far, when I crank the volume way up, I no longer hear noise from my left speaker. It use to sound 'broken' but i think it was distortion from the back, as well as no vibration dampening. With all that fixed, everything sounds crystal. Good stuff!
  7. Ah! Sorry I read his comment of "sub up" as upgrade to from an 8" to a 10", my bad. Currently the sub enclosure is on hinges, so it rolls back and gives access to the fuses below. If you look at my first post, i have a picture of the suv facing up. Due to the hinges it sets up farther, and in a small car that means the amps are within arms reach, from the drivers seat. Ive actually yet to run the sub, with the seats up. So i tried that today, seats top above the amps..sub firing at the hatch. I tried that on my way to work today and it seemed to hit noticbly louder/harder. Not sure if it's because i have it back farther, or because seats up causes a sorta 2nd ported box. I guess ill have to experiment more, and see if cover on/off makes a difference..and if possible, sub-facing-up, seats up. Seats down and sub rolled back ( facing up ), how i always ran it, is less. I figured I have 200A of alternator and 2000W of amplifier. Only using half the amp's rating. So thats why I had some hopes to squeeze in a little more powerful sub and enjoy the extra craze that comes with it~
  8. Thanks for the input~ To be clear with my thoughts, What I'm wondering, is whats the best I can squeeze in such a tiny space? Its a horrible space, as all 4 walls slope inwards. I love and hate this car for car audio. the trim is literally cable-trays, and the firewall already had a 2" diameter hole. It was EXTREMELY easy to wire this car, and the small size allows sound to fill the cab. I'd like to do sundown, as I've always loved their subs. I'd like to do the power X2 series, for their power/excursion ability. I'd like to hit those lows ( 32'ish tuned ) I'd like to maximize the space I have, best to my ability, as I love having the "Small car, Big sound" and "Hidden powerful system behind the seats that no one expects" Space to deal with: 37" Wide, 12" Deep, 10": Tall This is the 'preferred space' meaning an inch or so may be able to be added ( specially height ) if I make some changes to the way I mount the amps. I'm fine mounting the sub to face the back of the seats, and pull a seat-down during operation, to take full advantage of space. Do I have ANY ability to run dual 8" X V.2 series subs? Or any ability to run the 10" X V.2 series, in such a tiny space? I'm just trying to do this right. Box first, Sub 2nd. I made that mistake the first time, when I bought a 12" Sundown ZV3 which requires a 32sq-in port..That had no chance to fit in this space.. So, I'm looking for enclosure help.
  9. The chevy spark is a small car. Although I never use the back seats, I'm trying NOT to shove a system into this car that fully kills out the back seats. 2014 car, It's my daily driver, I'm not yet after dumping a wall into a 1.2L 85HP toy car. Right now, I'm running stock alternator ( 120A ) with a Singer alternator on standby. I asked >6 alternator fabricators, they all turned me down. Singer claimed this was their first CNC gutted-out alternator they've done that was converted into a hairpin style alternator. In the past, I had a JL Audio Powered wedge subwoofer. 10" slim sub ( TW1 ) 400W. This sub, was able to fit into the spare-tire area of my hatch, and actually take up no hatch space at all. At full tilt, this sub hit on the higher side ( It's small, no surprise ) and it hit rather HARD considering the size. Meaning, Vision blurs a little, throat tickles, and you really FEEL it good in your chest. However, I decided I wanted something more, figuring if a slim 10" could sound that loud, and make you REALLY feel it, and make people in the passenger seat go "My glasses were vibrating off my nose" Then, anything 'full size sub' should be better....Right? Eh..maybe. So. I dont have much space back there. The seats lean back. the hatch leans back. So the space is /_\ shaped, essentially. So, Right now...I have a single Sundown X8V2 back there. The box is 27" wide, 10" tall, and 11" deep. This is about the biggest box I can fit, with the seats up. Technically I could add another 10 inches to the width. So, This became the first subwoofer box I've built, carpeted, etc. Build out of 3/4" MDF Once all put together, The car was re-wired completely. 1/0 runs all over, 2nd battery, attention to detail. Sooooo Great. It's all installed now, Ready to roll. Hooked up to Sundown 2000W Monochannel amplifier, all connects to a JL Audio TwK Processor for digital crossovers and sound modes...Which is fed over 24-bit 192hz fiber-optic ( TOSLINK ) From a clario digital headunit. And well, my reactions are hit and miss. This box is tuned to 32hz. hits deeper. way deeper. So it sounds more 'clear' and more 'Like a really high end imax movie theater'. However, All that "Feel the bass" is gone. No more chest feels, no more 'rear-view mirror faces down after a few seconds', nothing. Its just loud, and deep. Now, I understand a 10" has more surface area and pushes more air. What I dont understand, is that sub has a TINY port, and its a slim sub...This is a full-size sub, 8", with a nice roll around it. So it maybe 8" but it can at least excursion more, while having a massive port. ( This was all ran through bassbox pro ). However, I also know 32hz is going to be less "Feel it" bass than a smaller box that might have been tuned to 50hz ( JL Doesnt list this sepc ) So...Here's my question. I'm use to JL Stuff. Which is regulated power amplifiers. To their manual, To tune a sub to full potential, You play a 0db 60hz sine wave, and use a meter and mesaure AC Voltage. Volts = Sqroot ( Watts * Resistance ). I did 38V, as its 1-ohm running 1500W. To JL Amps, this is 'proper' as per videos and manuals. To Sundown, I feel its not. The sub is happy though, it doesnt at all look like its doing anything near its max excusion, probably flexing a good inch in total going off the '3D logo illusion' visual guess. Question two. 2KW amp..I want to maximize the full potetial of this space. I can get another 10" length at MOST, on this box. I sense this is soo small for a Sundown X10V2. However...What about dual X8V2 subs? Can I run a properly tuned box, with a max of 37" wide, 10" tall, 11" deep that houses two sundown X8V2's? The amp power is there..the wiring is's all there... I just expected more. I'm a litle bummed a cheap little 10" slim 400W subwoofer was amazing, and this 8" sub, higher excursion and near triple the wattage, was rather .. dull. Is this the results of choosing between "The deep lows" vs "Feel it in your chest"? If this box wasn't 32hz, but say..50hz instead, would it better my expectations? I love the deep lows.. I just miss the punch..
  10. Do you recommend doing some sort of enclosure, if possible, for the dash, and then filling it up with polyfill? You can literally see to the bottom of the floor, looking down the speaker holes. Unless they make some sort of polyfill 'sheets'
  11. I have a chevy spark. These cars came with really horrible stock systems. Small 4" speakers in the front dash, under the windsheild. Small 4" speakers in the rear. These speakers are open cavity. Meaning, behind the dash ones, is nothing but metal frame-work and misc wires/electronics. The rears, just dangle in the wind. Right now, I run my 4 channels filtered out so they dont play much 'lows' as the subwoofer takes over from there. Would I gain any benifit by adding any sort of enclosures around these? Ranging from plastic cups...foam cups...etc? Awhile ago, I 3D printed an adapter to mount 6" speakers in the rear, and 5.25" in the dash. However, These do not have anything around them, just like stock was. Shoved a Sundown x8 v2 in the back. I dont have much space to work with, so I feel this is about the max box size I can do. Kinda sad the 400W 10" slim-sub from JL Audio, was able to play loudly..enough to vision blur and feel it good in your chest. But this 8, rated waaaay more wattage, cant. The box is tuned to 32hz, so it does get a lot lower. Debating if I can extend the box and make it a dual 8" or even try to squeeze in a 10".