Quiet
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Posts posted by Quiet
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Then what just put the DMM plugs in there? Because I tried how the chart says and it keeps going to protect everytime.
OK, lets solve this issue you got. Put down the DMM for now. . Your gains most likely will not send your amp into protect mode. Wire your subs as shown above, then let us know if your issue still persists. We wanna help but you gotta listen to us.
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hahaha love your avatar
I ate lunch at a Chinese Buffet in Longview Texas... swear the address was 420 N High Street
No...protect mode b/c ur amp is seeing to low of an impedance level. Wire you subs like the picture above, and your amp will be recieving a 2ohm load.
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It's going into protect because it's seeing too low impedance... it can't drive it. If you wire it like i stated in a previous post, your problems will go away. I had to figure this out the hard way the first time I ran into it... didn't have these forums in the 90's and my friends at the time were learning from me!
Just like this but your amp would be bridged.
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are you guys figuring in box rise too? just because his subs are wired to 2 ohms doesnt mean his amp will see 2 ohms
I'm not sure we're at that level yet... worrying about impedance rise in his box. Lets get the basics right.
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Alright well I have one more question in a gray area for me. For the dual coils should I use both terminals on the sub or just one for this wiring?
And this isn't being used on good stuff it's basically really low budget equipment I have till I can get the money together for better.
Um, definitely use both coils to maximize power handling and output. Wire each sub in series (+ on one coil to - on other coil, then the unused + and - go to the amp, which will make your subs each 8 ohm) then wire both subs parallel to your amp in bridged configuration (look on the label and it will tell you). Safe for most amps... what amp are you running???
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If each coil is 4 ohms, parallel the coils to the amp and your amp will see a 2 ohm load on each channel.
There's nothing really wrong doing it like that, but to ensure each sub gets identical signals, I would consider wiring the coils of each sub in series, bridging your amp and running the two subs parallel to the amp. If you use an enclosure with a chamber shared between the subs I highly recommend wiring this way.
good luck
EDIT: um i think i read your OP wrong. Sounds like you're bridging and runing 1 coil of each sub parallel??? by my math it sounds like your amp is seeing 2 ohm bridged.. hope it's rated to handle that... If you put the + of both coils of each sub to 1st ch + and the - of each coil to the second ch -... your amp is seeing 1 ohm bridged or .5 ohm each channel. Don't know of a lot of amps that can pull that off...
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I don't have them yet, but I think the ones I was looking at are the older ones rated at 200W rms. http://www.sonicelec...5-09P1S815.html
I just bought my P1s415 from Sonic Electronix for $90... I haven't even built the box yet and Amazon has a blow out... they're $41.41 and free supersaver shipping.
just for the tip you can buy me a second one, I'll give you my address
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New ngk wires, plugs, cap and rotor installed bout 6 months ago(1700 miles)
Still check to see if all the plug wires are secure. Also, I'd try starting your car with the alternator wire unhooked (secure it so it won't ground out or get caught in the fan belt) and see if the problem persists. If so it's probably a good time to upgrade it. Also try unhooking your RCAs at the amp, and plug in a ipod directly into the amp to see if you still get whine. You can also hook up a pair of headphones to the RCA's from the radio. You'd have to get adaptors from Radio Shack (while they still carry that kind of thing)
My money is on the alternator.
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It's possible that your ignition wires need to be replaced. if the shield has been nicked they will emit a lot of RF. 10-15000 volts of pulsating DC can wreck an audio signal. If your car has 50k miles or more it may be worth it just to replace them anyway.
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Ask him if it was a PWK enclosure. When he says WTF just laugh and walk away. I bet he said it does 190 db on music and the rear window's been replaced 3 times already LOL
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You do not need a second battery to run 2000 watts.
Do not get a capacitor though it is not a battery replacement and can actually do more damage than good to your electrical system.
A sound system is more than just some subs and an amp...and if you want to be successful you have to be willing to learn. You should read some of the stickies on this forum to find out information about electrical systems, sub boxes, and setting amplifiers. Also in I think general audio there is a sticky that has car audio terms defined.
The car shops and everyone around where I'm from has a second battery and or a capacitor for their systems. And most aren't even as big as the lvl4 system I wanna get. Cuz there headlights dim and stuff. Right now mine dim just with the system that I have. And I'm just wondering but what damage would the capacitor do to my electrical system and they said I need the capacitor cuz I would have the 2000 watt amp for my subs and whatever it is I have for my door speakers. And what are the stickies you were talking about. And where do I find the definitions for the terms I need to know?
You might want to slow down a bit. You have a lot of questions and it looks like you're looking for simple answers.
Remember, car audio shops do not have your best interests in mind. They have a store to run, so they will sell what they got. It's up to you to make sure you get what you want, don't let them tell you what to get. Do your homework before whipping out the checkbook. It only makes sense that they would try to sell you W6's... The selling technique of "snubbing" is very powerful and most uneducated consumers fall for it hook, line, and sinker.
For your electrical, search for "big 3 upgrade" both here and on youtube. Watch a few videos and take notes, most of these guys really know what they're talking about. If you do this, you won't need a second battery as long as you run large enough wire, 1/0 gauge will do. If your main battery is more than a year or two old, consider upgrading.
Stay away from capacitors. While it seems that they solve the problem of dimming headlights, they put undue strain on your electrical system, the problem is better solved by a big 3 upgrade.
Whatever amp you get, make sure you have the gains adjusted with an o-scope (oscilloscope). If they tell you that you don't need to use a o-scope to set your gains, pound sand and find someone who will. This will save you hundreds in shredded subs. This is more important than how many watts you choose! DO THIS AND YOU WILL NEVER NEED TO KNOW WHAT CLIPPING IS.
Look at the subcategories in the forums here. The threads at the top are the "stickies" meaning they are stuck to the top of the list. They contain frequently asked questions and basic MUST KNOW info.
There are generally two types of competition for SPL... Ground pounders and burp machines (these are just lay terms but people will know what you're talking about). It sounds like you belong to the former of the two, as burping is really technical... as they say, it's an acquired taste. Search "spl burp" on youtube and you'll see what it is and if you want to go in that direction.
Lastly, contact one of the competition sanctioning bodies in your area, USACi, MECA, IASCA. In a lot of areas one may be stronger than the other, but if you go to a few shows and talk to the seasoned pros you will learn tons.
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Happy birthday bro! I wish I was lucky enough to get that kind of stuff for my birthday. With the company I keep around me, I'd end up with a 24 in 1 does-everything-but-sucks-at-it $29.99 QVC special... then have to suck it up, say thank you, and think of of things to say when I see them the next time I see them and they ask, "hows that power tool working out?" :facepalm:
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Sealed provides a predictable frequency response, and you don't have to be too accurate with enclosure volume. If vented enclosures are done correctly (proper calculation of size and port tuning) you can expect a 3-6db gain, since you're using the rear waves from the sub, too; much more low end extension, and better transient response especially at higher volumes when compared to acoustic suspension type enclosures.
The breadth of availability of "one size fits all" vented enclosures out there give vented a bad name. If an enclosure is not of the correct volume for the T/S of the sub, you will get "boomy" sound, and it usually just sounds too bad to listen to. There are no "free lunches" with sub boxes, as there are always trade-offs, typically bandwidth for gain
Acoustic suspension/sealed/4th order band pass = easy, safe enclosure to build, can vary volume of enclosure quite a bit before performance is reduced, typically higher low end roll off. best with subs EBP of 50 or lower
Ported/vented/6th order band pass = need proper tuning for best performance, but yield more performance than acoustic suspension when tuned properly, need a infrasonic filter, volume of enclosure and port area/length need to be pretty accurate. Best with subs with EBP of 100 or higher.
IMO power handling is a non issue. You will get much better performance and longevity by setting your gains properly. You can be happy with 150% RMS power to your subs with proper gains, and conversely blow your subs with 75% RMS fairly easily, by sending clipped, square waves to the coils.
In Other Words, if you build it right, a vented box is louder and clearer than sealed. If you build it wrong, then it will sound like shit.
Thank you.
I realize I have a tendency to over-explain. Sorry.
To the OP... If you go to the manufacturer of your subs and ask them for the recommended ported enclosure specs, you should get louder with better SQ at higher volume than sealed.
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Sealed provides a predictable frequency response, and you don't have to be too accurate with enclosure volume. If vented enclosures are done correctly (proper calculation of size and port tuning) you can expect a 3-6db gain, since you're using the rear waves from the sub, too; much more low end extension, and better transient response especially at higher volumes when compared to acoustic suspension type enclosures.
The breadth of availability of "one size fits all" vented enclosures out there give vented a bad name. If an enclosure is not of the correct volume for the T/S of the sub, you will get "boomy" sound, and it usually just sounds too bad to listen to. There are no "free lunches" with sub boxes, as there are always trade-offs, typically bandwidth for gain
Acoustic suspension/sealed/4th order band pass = easy, safe enclosure to build, can vary volume of enclosure quite a bit before performance is reduced, typically higher low end roll off. best with subs EBP of 50 or lower
Ported/vented/6th order band pass = need proper tuning for best performance, but yield more performance than acoustic suspension when tuned properly, need a infrasonic filter, volume of enclosure and port area/length need to be pretty accurate. Best with subs with EBP of 100 or higher.
IMO power handling is a non issue. You will get much better performance and longevity by setting your gains properly. You can be happy with 150% RMS power to your subs with proper gains, and conversely blow your subs with 75% RMS fairly easily, by sending clipped, square waves to the coils.
In Other Words, if you build it right, a vented box is louder and clearer than sealed. If you build it wrong, then it will sound like shit.
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Sealed provides a predictable frequency response, and you don't have to be too accurate with enclosure volume. If vented enclosures are done correctly (proper calculation of size and port tuning) you can expect a 3-6db gain, since you're using the rear waves from the sub, too; much more low end extension, and better transient response especially at higher volumes when compared to acoustic suspension type enclosures.
The breadth of availability of "one size fits all" vented enclosures out there give vented a bad name. If an enclosure is not of the correct volume for the T/S of the sub, you will get "boomy" sound, and it usually just sounds too bad to listen to. There are no "free lunches" with sub boxes, as there are always trade-offs, typically bandwidth for gain
Acoustic suspension/sealed/4th order band pass = easy, safe enclosure to build, can vary volume of enclosure quite a bit before performance is reduced, typically higher low end roll off. best with subs EBP of 50 or lower
Ported/vented/6th order band pass = need proper tuning for best performance, but yield more performance than acoustic suspension when tuned properly, need a infrasonic filter, volume of enclosure and port area/length need to be pretty accurate. Best with subs with EBP of 100 or higher.
IMO power handling is a non issue. You will get much better performance and longevity by setting your gains properly. You can be happy with 150% RMS power to your subs with proper gains, and conversely blow your subs with 75% RMS fairly easily, by sending clipped, square waves to the coils.
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So your saying I should look at P1 12"S if not RE audio?
I like RE Audio , they have hella Xmax for the price and have decent SQ, too. SRX 10" will cost you about $80 a pop, though... well worth it if you can flip for it. Have you considered a single 15"?
The RF is a good buy for the $30~ range, if you're looking to spend as little as you can.
I thought about a 15.. and am still thinking about it.
That would be a lot of bump for a tiny car.
2 12's is more cone area and motor force if it's the same sub than a 15.
Well, true, but If cost is of concern, generally a higher end single 15" would do better than the same dough on 2 lower end 12s... and better low end extension. But then again you could find a good deal on some decent 12s... I guess it depends on what deals you find.
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I already knew it was a joke before clicking but that Prius comment is fucking hilarious. Steve...in a Prius, you go ahead and do that bro. hahaha
I couldn't wait to see him get amps to run off the 201 volt battery! greenDBs!
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guys, after much thought, i think the haters have finally won the battle. I think its time i hang it up. I am selling everything in the Tahoe, putting it back to stock......suspension, wheels, EVERYTHING.....even the paint, and shutting down the site. Its been fun but the time has come. I will leave it up for one more day so you guys have time to read this.
Oh, i am trading in the Lexus and getting a Prius. That 5.0 is a gas hog and just doesnt seem practical.
thanks for your understanding guys and thanks for a great, almost 5 years!
Not funny, don't fuk with us like that!
Now, if you said you were going strictly DB Drag, that would be funny.
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So your saying I should look at P1 12"S if not RE audio?
I like RE Audio , they have hella Xmax for the price and have decent SQ, too. SRX 10" will cost you about $80 a pop, though... well worth it if you can flip for it. Have you considered a single 15"?
The RF is a good buy for the $30~ range, if you're looking to spend as little as you can.
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Hifonics is one of those recycled brands... like Soundstream, MB Quart, Orion, etc... when the dotcom bubble burst in 01 a lot of brands went under, their namesakes were purchased and the new owners are riding out the name recognition... Hifonics was a near elite brand in it's heyday but I'm not so sure about now. Orion seems to be the only one with products as good as they had before, but that's a matter of opinion.
P1 Series RF subs at Amazon.com are on special since they're being replaced... the new version P1 series have a lower Xmax so go with the older ones while you can. The P1 12" subs were $32 shipped I think, the best deal of all the sizes. Otherwise I'd go with RE Audio SRX series if you have about 400 to 500 watts to play around with.
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I'll take an old school Orion 225 HCCA half ohm wonder
and the Soundstream DaVinci
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This is awesome! I would pick one up in a heartbeat. I been savin up to get an 0-scope too. Any idea on when it will come out?
I've been scoping prices on 0-scopes (wah wah wah bad pun) but I'd drop a bill on this in a heartbeat.
LOL
What ohm load would my subs be seeing?
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted
If you follow the diagram, then yes, you will have all the terminals on your subs connected. Have you followed the diagram?