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About MinistryMan

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  1. I am trading out my single HCCA 152 for a set of 12's. I have narrowed down the choices between 2 subs. I like the Savard Hi Q, and HCCA 124. They both suit a sealed enclosure well, or even a 4th order (of which im still undecided). I have learned that I can tune the 4th order to have a better peak passband than a simple ported box. My question is, of the two subs which would you choose? Thanks guys.
  2. Tweets only up front in the dash facing the occupants. 6.5's will be in the center of the truck in the front end of the console I am building, about knee height. If it works out, the 8's will be at the back end of the console, at elbow height, and the sub behind the passenger seat. I may trade the HCCA out. Idk yet.
  3. Yes for rear right and rear left. So that's tweets for front, 6.5's for mids or center, and 8's for rear, and a sub channel. Correct. Tweets HPF at 3k, 6.5's crossed at 250, LPF at 3k, 8's crossed at 80, LPF at 250, sub LPF at 80. Fairly simple. My question all this time has been what driver to use for midbass. As I said, I couldn't make my mind up whether to use 8's or 10's, so I shouted out. From those who understood my question the general consensus seems to be 8's, so I'm gonna take a shot, and go with Skar VVX or ZVX.
  4. Uhh, I think I know what I'm wanting, and what I've described is what I want. I don't have 10 million speakers or even 10 speakers. I got 2 pair of tweets, 1 pair for front left, and 1 pair for front right. I got 2 pair of 6.5's, 1 pair for left, and one pair for right. I don't know how you got any other idea than that, but you are mistaken. Glad we got that cleared up. Now it makes sense.
  5. Some of the comments on this thread have amazed me...smh. I got a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee that has a real nice factory system. It has 2 tweets in the dash, 2 mids in the front doors, and 2 midwoofers in the rear doors. If I added a subwoofer to that system, no one would have anything to say, but if I want to build a system like that myself, its stupid, unnecessary, or can't be done. Amazing. I have an RTA, Oscope, Clamp meter, volt meter, phase meter, SMD DD1, and CC1. I hope that I can install and tune an active system with these tools. My head unit has a time alignment feature, 10 band equalizer, 3 5v pre-outs for front, rear, and sub. I'm dividing the front channel with some y adaptors for the 4 channel amp, running the 8's off the rear channel, and the sub off the sub channel. The head unit has built in crossovers for each channel which will allow me to bandpass the 8's to achieve the desired crossover range, and the CC1 will allow me to set my LPF correctly. The CC1 also allows me to set the subsonic and LPF on my SKv2 200.4 amplifier to bandpass the 6.5's between 250-500hz. I really don't understand what all the fuss is about here. But hey, I really appreciate whoever among you it is that is really concerned about whatever suffering you are trying to save me. Means a lot to me, especially considering this is how I live my life. No, my dilemma here was in choosing a driver that I could amplify loud enough to not drown out my other speakers, yet feel that bass in my nose...lol. I guess if I get too much power I can always turn it down...lol Fat chance of that tho. I got this problem of not being able to turn it down. I'm still deciding between a 10 inch sub, or 8 inch. I really don't want to have to buy another amp. I already got around 3k in this sytem. I have a 1200 watt amp that I can use, but matching that to a set of 8's has been difficult. So far my best choice for 8's is PSI. They can build them exactly the way I need them. !0 inch speakers really suit my power needs much better. This dilemma is what pushed me to reach out. I don't have any experience with 8's or 10's, so I shouted out asking what the best driver for this range was. I really wanted to go with Skar, for the above mentioned reason of having the same brand and series components. I could replace my HCCA 152 with 2 VXF series, or 1 DNR at some future point. If I get Skar 8's I will have to get another amp, and to be honest, I'm starting to get that look from my wife..lol I'm betting someone here knows that look. At any rate, I thank all of you for your time, concern, and input.
  6. Well, I have looked at midbass woofers that have accordion style surrounds thinking that this would be better suited, but those I have asked concerning this sound really didn't have any understanding. Snowdrifter suggested a shallow mount sub, and it makes sense. PRV looked like they had some really good speakers for this range, but they are all 8 ohm. If I could find a similar driver that was 4 ohm, I would be much happier.
  7. Yes, I am going for SQ. Your crossover point is very correct. I have purchased a phase meter, and a CC1 to ensure proper tuning. I had not considered a shallow mount sub, but it makes sense as I sit here pondering the rapid shift in the higher bass frequency range. The specs on the Skar 6.5 PAX said that it could cover this range, but the application says differently. They got a rattle in them lower than 200 or so.
  8. Clarity, and power. For me at least. after amplifying speakers that cover a wide range of frequencies, I have noticed how muddy the sound gets as I turn it up. Now, it could just be that I have purchased cheap speakers. Which is entirely possible. Skar isn't the greatest quality I suppose, but it is what I have purchased. As I stated in my original post, when I turn up the volume on the 6.5's they begin to rattle at frequencies lower than 250. I want the midbass, and I am getting some 8's to play it. I will have the entire audible frequency range covered with a 15" sub (20-80hz), 8" (80-250hz), 6.5" ( 250-3khz), and super tweets (3khz-20khz). I understand some are saying other speakers may cover certain ranges better than others. Without doubt. You can spend 1000's on full range drivers that play all the whole audible frequency range. But I have what I have. The DD1 and CC1 will ensure that I tune them properly.
  9. Butt hurt? lol. No I'm not butt hurt, and I appreciate the time everyone has taken to correct me. I have always been one to learn anything the hard way. I want a 4 way system, and a 4 way system I will build. I know there is a lot of experience in car audio here. This is why I came here to ask my question. My question was fairly straight forward. What size driver should I use to amplify the bass frequency range of 80-250hz. The best answers I got for this was an 8 inch driver, and for this I thank you all. To tell me I am wrong fro building a 4 way system is like telling me I am wrong for putting salt on my watermelon. It is simply a matter of taste, or hearing in this case. There are tones that I want to hear over others, and specific drivers amplify these tones better than others. But again, I thank you for taking the time to comment and\or instruct me. Hopefully, this build will not blow up in my face. Have a good 1
  10. I know what it is. This component is used to divide your signal into 6 different channels so that you can amplify a driver, or set of drivers within 6 different frequency ranges which proves my point. You may feel that it is too complicated to do a 4 way sound system over a 3 way...smh, but that doesn't make it incorrect. However, I appreciate all your suggestions and care for my car audio desires. From what lil bit I could gather here, an 8 inch driver would be best suited to fit my needs. I was in-between an 8 inch, and a 10 inch. I am going to purchase to 8's and cross them at 80hz and filter them at 250hz. I will probably go with Skar Audio VVXv3. or ZVXv2 which was suggested to me by the techs at Skar who understood what I was looking for in my quest for loud, clear sound reproduction. Skar is one of the few manufacturers that label all their drivers operating frequency ranges. I was looking at a set of SoundQubed 8's because they fit my power level perfectly, but unfortunately the frequency range spec is not listed and the tech did not know them. Have a great day, and turn it up!
  11. I'm glad there are some out there that get it. If a 2 way, or 3 way works for you guys, that's great. Put some power on it. Fortunately, there are some manufacturers out there that understand sound. Can anyone explain the purpose of this piece of equipment, and others like it? https://smile.amazon.com/DS18-XM6LD-Crossover-Subwoofer-Control/dp/B01HGOXOIW/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=5+way+active+crossover&qid=1555699763&s=gateway&sr=8-2
  12. Ok. I did not answer the last thread tho the response has been on my mind. I will share. I know this information is not new, but this is the reason I need a driver for this frequency. The audible frequency range is broke down into 7 categories; sub bass (20-80hz), bass (80-250hz), mid bass (250-500hz), midrange (500-2khz), upper midrange (2k-4khz), presence (4k-6khz), and brilliance (6k-20khz). To get the clearest possible sound, especially under high power, there should be a driver crossed at each of the ranges. Now, as car audio enthusiasts we do not concern ourselves with all of these frequencies, its just not feasible to fit this many drivers and amps in our automobiles. However, there are drivers manufactured to cover each of the ranges. Each size driver best covers one of the ranges. For example a 18-15" sub-woofer is best suited to drive the sub bass range. When you start playing higher then the sub bass range on a sub woofer, the quality of the sound begins to suffer. If you are using a 12" woofer, the bass frequency range sounds much better, but your sub bass range suffers a bit. We all know a 15 plays the lows much better than a 12. As you go up the scale the size of the driver needed to sound good decreases. The smaller cone area is better suited to play the faster cycles. Sure you can get good sound by using a 12 to cover sub bass and bass, or an 8 to cover midbass and midrange, but great sound comes when you relieve the driver from the extra frequencies overworking it as it tries to play too many different sounds. We do the same thing with tweets and 6.5's. Speakers last much longer when they play smaller frequency ranges. Of course this is all dependent upon the listeners preference. Some focus only on sub bass, and so they get the best driver they can for that range and nothing more. As we grow in sound quality we decide to upgrade the higher frequencies, and some get component sets being completely satisfied with the sound that is being reproduced. Nothing wrong with that. Me, I want to feel like I am sitting in the middle of a symphony, hearing every sound clearly and accurately, and I want to feel the sound that I am hearing. I have compromised the upper frequencies, because I have a limited amount of space and do not wish to purchase 12's, 10's, & 3.5's to go with my tweets, sub, mids, and midbass. Like many others I like the lower frequencies. The system I am trying to complete is simply a 4 way SQ system utilizing 4 different size drivers to produce the various frequency ranges. Instead of having a generic 4 way speaker to cover these sounds, I am breaking it down, crossing it over, and amplifying them myself. I know there are some ppl out there that like the midbass thump and have focused on that frequency range, and to those ppl I am asking which driver did they use and how much power did they put on it to achieve the desired response.
  13. Can someone please recommend a driver that I can use to amplify 80-250hz? I have all the frequencies covered but this. I have an Orion Hcca 152 filtered at 20-80hz powered by an Orion XTR 2500.1Dz. I have 4 Skar Audio PAX 6.5's, and 4 VX35-ST powered by a SKv2 200.4 @2ohms. I have set the subsonic at 250hz and the LPF set at 3khz on channels 3&4 for the 6.5's, and the HPF set @ 3khz on channels 1&2 for the tweets. The 6.5's have a rattle in them under power at frequencies lower than that. I have 4 Orion XTR 2 way 6x8's in the doors powered by a Sony MEX-XB120BT. The head unit is great. I hooked my SMD DD1 up to it at 40hz and 1khz test tones with less than 1% distortion at max volume. The head unit pushes 45x4 rms. The crossover is built in to the 6x8's. I know I am playing that frequency range thru them but it isn't loud enough to be heard. I have been looking at 8 inch woofers. I am building a console in my Ford F150 (pics soon) that will incorporate the mids, my amps, and the midbass woofers (hopefully). I got a 4 inch turbo fan and a temp switch to run it. I'm gonna run a hose from my ac vent hooked to the fan to help keep the amps cool. I'm putting the tweets in the dash using a hole saw (maybe). I have considered door pods, but the way my doors are designed, there really isn't an appropriate place to set them. This a SQ system with a bit of SPL. I have become very indecisive at the moment. I have spent much more than I set out to spend. I have bought tools and gauges that I didn't budget for..lol Any recommendations and the reason why you recommend them would be greatly appreciated. I really want to put a cap on this build and call it finished. I have a Hifonics Zeus 2416.1D that I can use to power the drivers. It is around 1200 watts rms @1ohm. That should be plenty enough power for midbass (I hope) I guess I could buy another amp if need be. Thanks guys
  14. This is what the guy from Russia worked up. Looks decent for real.
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