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About chevzilla

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  1. Definitely have the main wire power wire upgrade on my list of things to do, just waiting for payday to come this week and running up to the D4S shop here in Vegas to pick up some 1/0 gauge OFC and new battery terminals. Getting JP's brand, certified basshead since he's got a little discount available from time to time if you pick up at the warehouse. Also have a Autocraft 720cca Group 24f AGM battery on the way which will be MUCH better the stock 400cca Group 51 battery.
  2. Just thought I'd post and update after my busy weekend. Got a few things done, big three and new led bulbs all around. Initially after the big three, I saw a major improvement with my lighting at full bass. That alone made me quite happy! Not sure about my voltages on the amp right now but, 100% certain it's not going below the minimal 8.4v needed. If I were to guess, it's definitely in the 12v range. Waiting to get my volt meter in before I can really see what's going on, too bad my sperry multimeter was stolen from my truck a few weeks back.... I further after the big three and upgraded all my interior and exterior bulbs to led while I wait for my battery and very surprised with the outcome, I have absolutely no more dimming with my headlights when giving it full bass. Really like the look of the led interior bulbs too, makes thing look a lot cleaner. Only thing that still dims are the dash and radio lights but, I plan on changing those out with some nice blue colored wedge LEDs that use less than .5w compared to the 2-3w stock bulbs. I think once I get a better battery in, I'll be prime and making some great bass. I'll get some pictures upload when I get close to finishing up everything. Thank you for the help so far @twalker182
  3. Thanks again man, I'll look into those terminals and see if there's anything similar in town that will work with 2/0 welder cable. On another note, are you using the stock halogen bulbs or HID/LED. My buddy was telling me that LED would be better for voltage draw but may flicker just a tiny bit still and HID would require more power initially but not flicker due to power storing in the ballast. Kind of leaning towards LED because I could easily wire those with a relay harness and almost completely eliminate the flicker.
  4. I appreciate your help @twalker182! Got some good ideas to act on now. I really want to put a new head unit in but don't want to lose my info screen. Not sure if there is a work around to this or not, really havent looked into it. Just looked at the meter, man it's nice but a lil spendy. Any advantages to that one over a cheaper meter? As for the rattling, I feel you on that one Haha. Removing my stock sub completely and keeping the rear armrest passthrough open helped a lot. Still get some rattling at high frequencies though and think the weather stripping idea would be a nice addition to help before I get into the sound deadening. Quick question on your big three, did you upgrade your battery connectors when you did it? I have come across a really good deal for some 2/0 welder cable and might pick it up today and try to hook it up when I get my odyssey battery. But I'm pretty sure there's no way in hell it'll work with the stock connectors and if I remember correctly, a 2/0 welder cable is more like 1/0 or 0 guage audio cable when it comes to size. Correct me if I'm wrong on that. Thanks again!
  5. Have had my EVL 10 over a year now and still hits harder than ever with my recent amp upgrade. I Visited the D4S shop in Vegas and one of the employees there had nothing but great things to say about the EVL's. His system was legit with two Skar 15's, not sure what series they were though. I've heard some issues about unannounced changes to the board in their amps before. Some people would buy two with separate boards and the newer one would fry due to lower quality components? This was on their top line amps I do believe. Personally, I'm using the Skar RP1500.1 right now and absolutely love it.
  6. Awesome, thank you! Glad to hear you've been running the stock alt with a bigger system than mine for two years! Gives me some hope with the dimming issue. I have reached out Singer just incase I ever need something and I'm impressed with the price they quoted. What did you do for disabling the ANC? I've just been doing it through the diagnostic menu for the time being by pushing 1 and 6 then power. I've seen a forsure way to do it which is disconnecting the mics but have also read that there is a module you can completely disconnect behind the radio that will in turn use less amperage than just disconnecting the mics, while still retaining HFL. Havent seen anything in particular for the 8th gen on how to do it but others have said it's completely possible. Also interested in what you're using for a voltmeter and where you have it mounted. I want to add one but have a clean look without making any permanent modifications to the dash. I spoke with a tech at a pretty reputable stereo install shop here in Vegas about an hour ago in regards to ELD on my car and he knew what I was talking about before I even finished the sentence. He said they have a module that is plug and play and bypasses the ELD without any dashboard lights coming on and would keep the alt output at full voltage. He said any other shop would just be trying to screw me over by charging an excessive amount to modify the circuitry. He said the modules are hard to get ahold of but come in every now and then though he had none in stock right now and the cost is only $25. He couldn't remember the name of it of the top of his head. All he could remember was 5v step down? Any idea what he is talking about?
  7. Thanks for getting back to me twalker! Is your Accord a 2.4 with stock alternator? Also, how did you go about wiring up the big three? I've seen so many different ways and each one claims to be the "best". Also I see you have the XS3400R, how well does it fit in your engine bay and what is the difference with the reverse polarity on the R mean? I'm not to sure how the reverse polarity thing works if I were to use it as my main battery or if there will be any difference at all. Another thing I was wondering about is the ELD. There was an old post I came across on the forum by @keep_hope_alive that showed how to bypass it on the earlier gen Hondas but was mentioned in the post it should be the same process on newer gens as well. Have you done the bypass on your accord and if so, was it the same process?
  8. Hey everyone, newbie to the car audio game here and fellow bass enthusiast. I'm going for bass on a budget, Trying to stay middle of the line between low and high end. Had a Single Skar 10 EVL 4ohm DVC from a previous setup but the amp it was hooked to was pretty crappy, some Absolute Pro 2600w unit. When I bought my new car (2011 Honda Accord EXL with a 2.4l) I decided to finally put my system back in. I ditched the Absolute and picked up a Skar RP1500.1 based upon the technician's suggestion at Skar Audio since I am only running a single EVL 4ohm DVC with the impedance at 2ohms. He suggested it would give me the best bang for the buck and estimated that the amp would still deliver around 1000w to the sub, which I believe he was right... This amp made it sound like I went from a shitty walmart sub to a true heavy hitter. Definitely turned some heads when I finished it up. The sub has true 4awg cca wire running to it (not the 4awg but is actually 6awg) and same wiring for the ground. My second hand box was built custom and tuned, or so the guy that made it says. Since I have an 8th Gen Accord I had to disable the ANC Module and had to keep the factory HU so I could retain the info screen for the clock, temp and fan control. Keeping the HU made it so I also have to use an Audio Control LC2i to tap into the rear speakers. From what I can tell the LC2i it works great and delivers some solid bass. I really hadn't had a chance to tune it since my search results really haven't turned up any useful information. I'm not sure if I'm missing out on better power delivery by properly tuning the LC2i then the amp or, tuning the amp then the LC2i? With my current stock electrical system, I really need to look into some upgrades or further tuning since the headlights dim pretty bad when pushing full bass and have to keep the bass knob just a little bit above MIN to prevent dimming at night. My car comes stock with a 130amp alt but has a pretty small battery and no big three yet. I've read about others who can push a 2000w system on the same stock car without any significant power issues at all. Not sure if my case due to an incorrectly tuned amp/LC2i or something else... Kind of lost right now in regards to tuning the LC2i and Skar at the same time and if proper tuning could make a big difference in dimming. My immediate thoughts are replacing my battery and getting a budget friendly big three kit. For a battery I was looking at the Odyssey Group 24 AGM battery since there is a shop here in Las Vegas that is running a nice "know a guy" discount for the one I need. As for the big three, I'm not really sure what to look at. I've seen so much conflicting information in regards to this and it's made me unsure of what to do, I'm not sure if DIY would be a better route or not or what would work best. The last thing I can consider right now is a HO alt at the current prices even though I'd love to have one someday. Any pointers you guys have are greatly appreciated whether it's in regards to tuning the LC2i and amp, cheap power upgrades, wiring etc... I no longer want to be embarrassed when pushing some heavy bass at night and the last thing I want to do is make a decision by piecing together information across multiple forums and end up effing everything up. If you need more information, let me know and I'll do my best to explain. If I'm in the wrong forum, let me know and I'll move it. Thank you much!
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