Jump to content
 
 

/b/ro

Members
  • Content Count

    34
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About /b/ro

  • Rank
    120db
  • Birthday 10/03/2002

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    901
  • Interests
    Cars, audio, and car audio.

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. ^ TL;DR The subs should be able to withstand the wattage especially since the volume was extremely low. A shity Pioneer was able to withstand it when I actually turned it up.
  2. Most likely. But what could I have done wrong? The only thing I can think of is wiring but I know it was fine, if it was wiring another sub at least would have been affected by it. It wouldn't have been just that one. The box is fine it's the exact same design that Steve meade made. So unless his design is bad (Which its perfect) then I don't know what could be wrong with the Box. The box is fine, the wiring is fine (10guage), and the amp plays nicely. In fact I'm still using it. It can't be that bad if it's been abused like it has for the past 10 or so years we have had it. It's still kicking as strong as it was when we first got it. We got it used. So it can't be as crappy as you think it is. And I guarantee you there is no way that that 2000 watt RMS amp is only pushing out 1,000 or less watts. Of course the radio or my phone could have been clipping which I also doubt. Being as though I never actually turn the volume up at all... the volume state extremely low. These Subs should be able to take this wattage perfectly fine. I know this because I've played two of them on this app before and it sounded wonderful and so I decided to get two more and make a bigger SPL enclosure. I've also put this amp on a Pioneer 12 (super shitty sub), and it was easily able to withstand turning the bass knob all the way up and turning the music up Extremely Loud. The box at the Pioneer was in was tuned to 30hz, it hit hard and sounded great. If that shity little 300 watt RMS sub is able to take the wattage that's being put out from the amplifier, then it should be fine. Once again I didn't have the volume up very loud when I was using all four. It was late at night and I was not trying to wake up the neighbors. I just wanted to get a test bump in to see what the frequency range was like. So far its anywhere between 30 and 42. All those frequencies hit hella hard. Im used to a peaky 38hz tuned box with two 12" Diamond Audio D6 Subs. They are rated at 600 watts each and were taking 2000 watts in that box. They've outlasted the jlw7 that we had. Lol
  3. Its a 2000w RMS A/B amp. 2000w rms. Even if it's not a clean 2000-watt it's not going to be anything less than around 1,800 which is still way more than I actually need. I ONLY need 1200. There is no way that that 2000 watt a b amp is only pushing a clean 800 watts. Thats a fat lie. Ik the amp isnt that crazy good. But 2k watts at 2 ohms for its price is very believeable. Not to mention the fact that it's been on numerous other set ups and has been absolutely perfectly fine. Why would only one sub blow if it were clipping. Every sub would take an equal voltage and would also be playing the same frequency, that means every sub would clip at the same time. Now let's say fit the other subs weren't wired up and it was only that one then I would be able to tell. But being as though they were all moving and exactly the same distance and I could easily here all four of them, I know that they were all wired up in the same phase, there wasn't any clipping except for on one of the songs, and the amp is fine.
  4. Doesnt matter if its doing 2k rms, it only needs to do 1200. So, once again, doesnt matter. Also, I did the math the exact way that was shown to me from Sonic Electronix. Someone last I've always done their gain settings wrong, then idk. I didn't have it set at 2000 I had it set at 1200. Ill check it again though. But even if this were a gain problem, why is it that only one sub blew and the rest are perfectly unscathed? Alluding to basic electrical rules, each part of the circuit should take an equal amount of voltage. Not to mention that the volume was only a 1/4 of the way up.
  5. Does Rusty work at DC?
  6. Also, when I did my first test bump, (when the sub blew), I didn't have the volume up. The subs were moving less than a centimeter. They were barely moving! I was only doing it to get a rough idea of what it would sound like. Just making sure I tuned the box properly. (And I did) 34hz.
  7. I've been on this form before about the same thing, but I thought it would be more appropriate to post here. I've purchased four DC Audio Level 1 12"s. I don't a box that looked very similar to Steve Meade's "Bucket O' Bass" series. For whatever reason, one of my Subs blew. The coil is burnt up, but the other three are perfectly fine. I want to know what happened, and if it'll be covered under warranty. I doubt it'll be covered under warranty but it just seems to be a little suspicious that it was the only one that blew. Doesn't make any sense to me. Based on kirchhoff's law, shouldn't they all be taking equal current? I used Rockford Fosgate wiring wizard to make sure I wired it right. It was both me and my dad wiring it together, two set of eyes on this. I doubt we wired it wrong, wiring is super easy and my dad has done it all his life lol. I can send pictures of the sub and box. Also, the amplifier is not crazy over powered. It only has 100 extra watts per sub. Which it's always good to have Headroom. And no, I am not using the gain as a volume knob. I set my gain right. The app that I'm using is a QCA4000D, 2000w rms. I set the gain at 49v. E=√P•R E is volts, P is desired wattage, and R is resistance. I used that formula. E=√1200•2, E=√2400, E=48.989, That means, my AC output at max volume should be 48.989 (49 is fine). That's correct right? I doubt I screwed up that bad with simple gain settings. Also, if the amp is the problem, why would it only attack one subwoofer and not all of them? This doesn't make any sense... I'm kind of new to this, but this is seriously confusing me. Can anyone help?
  8. Oh it did get hot. As soon as I took the sub out smoke was coming from the motor. I did hear distortion on one song that that's the reason I turned it off right after I heard the distortion. But it was because of the song. I had it on a random playlist and one of the songs was one of those crappy bass boosts. Some little five year old that doesn't know what they're doing on a computer and thinks that just increasing dB makes everything good.
  9. Nah, mine are labled right.
  10. I have around 2 and 1/2 in from the back of the magnet to the port wall, but that's on two of the subs that were on the other side and are perfectly fine. This sub has over 8 inches. Like me. That's definitely not a problem. Check your Instagram I sent you a few photos.
  11. And it smells horrible. Almost like burning hair. Trust me, never go smelling he magnet holes after you blow a sub.
  12. My subwoofer coil got "Blacked" hahahahahhaha
  13. The subs were in the back of an 01 silverado extended cab. There was plenty of room and the subs were firing up. There was plenty of room to breathe. Not to mention the fact that the motor was at the mouth of the port. The port has a good five or six in a breathing room as well. I feel that I did a good job on the box, and it's placement. I would show you a photo but I can't really do it. The requirements for the image limit are too low. I can't send any good quality pictures unless you want 240p lol. Or extreme close-ups. Do you have Kik, SnapChat, or Insta? If you don't you can p.m. me your number. I can send you photos and videos.
  14. When in doubt, blame the amp. Is it possible the amp had a problem? I mean I would doubt that a monoblock amp would suck electively choose the subwoofer that's right next to the terminal to be its 'next victim', but possibilities are possibilities. And I'm as open minded as Kurt Cobain.
  15. Ok, they look identical... I can see where the leads touch the terminals, perfect. Where the leads touch the cone, perfect. Where the small wire of the coil leads up inside the dust cap, perfect. Everything is perfect. Idk what happened. This is seriously doesn't make sense. The sub (looks) fine, the amp is fine, the wiring is the same as the wiring wizard. It doesn't make sense. How can the other three Subs be as good looking as when they came out of the factory, but the identical sub with the same wattage input, in the same box, be defected? Something's not adding up.
×
×
  • Create New...