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About snb778

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  1. This one was already reconed. I think last setup I had it in 5.2cu ft and it sounded much better.
  2. thats what im thinkin, but many people are sayin with 4cu. ft net I should switch to a 15 or 2x12's
  3. Time for a new sub (or possibly a recone). Blew mine yesterday (18" Treo SSX) Looking for opinions. Running a Skar rp3500.1 on solid electrical. Budget is about $450. I have net 4.3cu. ft to work with if ported, with all displacements included. I'm open to options, 2x 12's ported, 2x15's sealed (no room to port), another 18" (seems Skar is the only decent 18 in my budget), etc etc. Most 15's i've seen still require more than 2.5cu ft. per sub. I can get away with 5.5cu. ft with a sealed box
  4. Need new sub, blew my 18" treo ssx. Anyone do recones for a decent price? Anyone selling an 18 that does 2500-3k? Budget is 300-400 Im open to other options as well. Im workin with about 4cu ft net ported, 5 sealed. Figured the 18 is the best way to go, but if 2x 15's sealed would fit, cool.
  5. Can you set the "full" voltage amount? You say charge it until its full, but what determines "full"? Each battery build can be different.
  6. Have you heard of Juice Box batteries? I spoke with the owner a few days ago. he said they have a 15ah batt with 30C recharge/discharge rate. He seemed confident it can support my 3500W Skar w/o a high output alt and W/O my main battery, but I couldnt find one on his website. Company name is MiSolar. There were juice box cells and batteries, but only 1 MiSolar batt...but the stats said 3c or 5c... not sure if I was missing something in his product line. There was only 1 Juice Box batt.
  7. ok I understand what you are saying now. Kind of different question... For a car audio application, isnt a higher C-rating more relevant than the "AH"? For example, wouldn't 15ah battery with 30 C-rating be better than a 50ah with a 5 c-rating? Quicker recharge, slow discharge rates...
  8. I hear what you are saying, but in a world of quickly changing technology, the goal is always to make things smaller and more efficient. Theres got to be a rating in these cells that determines how much "capacity" they have. If we just looked at it as bigger is better, my rebuttal would be look at a 1gb drive 5-10 years ago....it was the size of a tablet....now they are fitting 50+gb in a thumb drive...
  9. You bring up a good point, I've never seen a "reserve capacity" rating on lithium batteries. Thanks again for the help!
  10. Hi guys, looking for a budget battery, think I found some good options, but im really curious about the VMAX, never really heard of them but seems to be by far the best bang for the buck of these 3.? Which Battery, Kinetic 2400, VMax, or Dekka? VMAX- $260, 120AH, 230Reserve Kinetic HC2400 Blu- $225 120AH, not sure of reserve Deka Intimidator Group 31- $265, 92AH, 175 reserve. Looks like VMAX in a landslide to me but im not familiar with them. I want to keep it under $300 Thoughts?
  11. 1. So the AH x C rating = max amps? What exactly does that mean "Max" amps? until what happens? 2. Each CELL has 70ah? wtf kind of cells are you using? lol. 3. I guess what im struggling with is despite the size, if a smaller cell has 3.2v, and 8ah and so does a bigger one...whats the difference? Can't just be the fact that they're bigger. 4. I see a lot of these lithium batteries say 100 amps or 200 amps (not amp hours)....what is that stating? Will an amp that pulls 300-400amps not work with these? Thanks for the help
  12. Thanks for pointing me there. I'm hung up on this part, i don't quite understand "The specs say the maximum charge current is less than 3C (48A x 3 = 144A). Lets assume you have a 300A alternator, which is an acceptable size for a 5K. 300A is 6.25C.". Which specs say the max charge current is less than 3c? Is that saying the cells shouldn't be charge at a higher rate than 3c? Where did that number come from? How does 300A = 6.25c? Thanks, Steve B
  13. What characteristic of the battery controls how long it can take that amperage draw? Is that the C-rating? The reason I ask is because I see so many people making 12V batteries with the 18650 cells that are like 4-5Amps each, and 3.2v....why are those not as desirable vs the 38120's with the same ratings? How do you get to 700 amps for 10 seconds? What calculation do you use to determine that? Thanks for the help.
  14. LOL, i respect a man who can admit he doesnt know what he's doing, but still giving it a try. What are the power ratings per cell on those Cmax? Voltage and amps? I'm curious why so many only gets you 12 volts OR 45ah? I have put in about 20hrs of research in the last few days on cells and lithium. The BMS is to keep each individual cell from getting to a volatile state. If the voltage drops to low (under 2V) or to high (above 5V depending on the cells starting voltage of course) they can become volatile. The better cells are less like to explode due to their construction and safeguards. I've read anything under 32deg. lithium cells WILL NOT charge at all. Take this info for a grain of salt, as i'm by no means and expert, but quickly getting eddumacated
  15. Do you have any pics of the BMS you used? When you say C-max, what does that mean? All I know is like energy cell, power cell, chemical makeup, and 38120, 18650, etc. Trying to figure out when I look at all these different companies batteries (not just cells) what im looking at for best performance. I don't understand how some people use 16x 18650 batteries and create 12v, 40ah pack...do they perform as well as using 38120's? Are they as safe? Does 1 companies 38120 perform better than another? etc. Still figuring it all out. Seems the Linyong or whatever are the go-to for safety. Thats another topic in itself, what makes 1 safer than another, how do I know, what do I look for. Any help would be great. Thanks!
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