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About Loudst

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  1. $150 on sale. Cheaper than $300 for XS and wire kit. I should change my power wire setup though. Want a single 0 ga running back to fused distribution block.
  2. Went and bought new battery for under hood. AGM H7. No more amp protect mode. Stock battery so small and not sufficient for sound system like that. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-platinum-agm-battery-group-size-h7-850-cca-h7-agm/10210826-P
  3. I think I am just gonna get the agm for the hatch, and the wire kit by xs. Take out both power wires to battery up front. Use a quality 4 ga for 1200.1 to back battery. This should clean things up, and give me the extra oomph I need from my electrical supply.
  4. Maybe I will throw one in up front first, and run a 0 ga wire to the back and use a real distribution block for the amps powers instead of having two powers running the whole way up front. See if the battery and new power wire helps.
  5. How low is within reason? And also, just set to DC Volts and place positive probe to power wire on kicker input and negative to ground terminal on kicker?
  6. I have the stock battery. If you change the battery on the Focus ST you have to go to dealer to have Fordscan reset, so I am trying to avoid and just add another battery in hatch. Also, cheap 4 gauge power was used for amp, and installing battery will add extra piece of mind as I will be adding at least 2 ga from OEM battery to secondary in hatch, and perhaps head that off if that cheap 4 ga is contributing to this issue as well.
  7. Its a little base model Focus ST. Lights dim extremely bad. All of the symptoms of poor power supply/voltage drop. Can anyone else chime in?
  8. You don't think I should try to upgrade to a second battery first before blaming kicker?
  9. I can, but not until tomorrow. I bought the enclosure with the sub wired in by Kicker as a prefabbed enclosure sub combo. They could have wired incorrectly though.
  10. 2017 Ford Focus ST I have installed lc7i and two amplifiers, one (Dual BAK 100watt rms x 4 at 4ohm) for door speakers and one (Kicker CXA1200.1 amplifier) for my 12" Q class 900watt rms Kicker L7 . I have been trying to tune my subs properly, with DMM. Am able to get about 40V (800 or so Watts RMS) with 45 hz test tone/songs before amplifier goes into protect mode and subwoofer stops playing. This first time this happened I was playing a 40 hz test tune and thought I blew the sub and dang near had a heart attack. Crazy thing is, is that it wasn't anywhere near the 1200 watts rms the amplifier is rated at...This leads me to believe my amplifiers are trying to draw too much power from my stock battery which cannot feed the two amplifiers sufficiently and my sub amplifier is going into protect mode because of this on hard power sucking bass. This happened playing songs before, but I thought it was just a bad ground (also had feeback to speakers thinking it was ground related(Separate headache)) so I changed it from stock sub stud in hatch to the seat bolt with paint all sanded off. Had a local stereo shop even change ground a third time and I wasted my money taking it there. I therefore do not believe it is a ground issue. My headlights dim very badly when bass drops as well as my accessory lights if on. If my door speaker amp is drawing 400 watts RMS and my subwoofer amp is attempting to pull 900+, that is 1300 watts RMS my stock battery is trying to supply. Questions:Am I right to assume I should be addressing a power related issue?Can I simply add a small AGM car audio style battery to my trunk to try to resolve the issue while keeping my stock battery?Would I need a 1600 watt rms rated battery, or could I add a smaller rated battery and not use an isolator so I am technically using both batteries to power the amps? Is that a thing?I'm sure I have many other questions that will pop up, but if anyone has done this or has any insight I would appreciate it! Sorry I am just learning.
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