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About airofu

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  1. Thanks for the replies looking at a Skar SDR which is potentially a little underrated. If I am playing music as a daily, it sounds like you can also go a bit above RMS as it's not always going to peak the wattage based on the music/impedance rise?
  2. Just using a multi meter and oscilloscope (same as a DD1?) to work out estimated distortion free output from the amp, with a hypothetical 600rms sub and 1500rms amp at 1ohm. Do I set the amp hard at 600rms to match the sub or give it a bit more due to playing music not tones/impedance rise? 800rms? more?
  3. If I have a subwoofer that is 600rms rated 1200w peak - but an amp that can do 1500rms, what should I set my max output too on the amp for this sub? I get having a bigger amp gives me more headroom and less likely to distort as it won't max out as would be this case, but do I still set the amp as max output for the rated 600rms? I read about 50% more....but is that headroom vs actual power to the sub?
  4. Thanks all, seems like I am on the right track. Will look at 45 or rounding all the port edges (assuming it might drop my port length by an inch or two)
  5. Thanks, I think I doubled up a wall internally like you said equals about 1.42cft for the port now...which brings it down to about 19" wide like you say which is good to know! Is the tuning length as easy as measuring the port from the middle? or do the 2 turns and inside port somehow change the way I should be l looking at it?
  6. I've run some figures, hopefully I am on track. 28hz port at 40 square inches is 2.5" by 16" and 47.24" long with 0.75 MDF would take up 1.91cft gross - I added this to a box design for 2.5cft internal volume (plus 0.15 sub displacement) to get a box that seems to just fit with total external dimensions of 21" wide 17.5" high and 26.74" deep. Will making the slot port a U inside, change the length/tune that I am not thinking off?
  7. I'm hoping I can get some ideas and help on a box I want to build for a single American Bass XR 12" - looking at pushing about 1500rms and wanting to tune at 28hz as I want it to hit nice and low. Sounds like pushing the box to 2.5cubes is the way to go (unless smaller is recommended based on tune and power?), sub displacement at 0.15cft, 0.75inch MDF, my maximum outside dimensions are 21" wide (would want to reduce this as much as possible) 17.5" height, and 26" deep which can stay if it works. I am mainly having trouble keeping to 40 squared inches of port area which seems to be the minimum based on the box and power? The box design software won't give me a U port (colored red, will this work?) and is where I am stuck as the port is too long for just an L:
  8. Thanks, keep us updated on your box and how the XRs sound. Seems like a bigger box seems to help dig the lows in general from what I've read....
  9. Make sure the remote bass remote is up, turn LPF higher and subsonic lower to test it's not cutting the frequencies out somewhere in the middle, I've also made the mistake of setting my gains with my subsonic filer and LPF on (and HU settings not flat) which messes with the DMM readings ....though it sounds like you have covered all these things....amp issue? Though I imagine if it's putting out the right voltage it should be ok.... On break-in, I noticed my sub seemed to hit a bit lower after a few weeks of usage, but as mentioned not a night and day difference.
  10. I'm looking at making a box for a single American Bass XR 12, looking at giving it about 1500rms and wanting to tune low 28hz for most output down low and relatively flat response. How big should I go, consensus seems to be about 2.5cft max? Lower 2-2.25cft? Also based on all this would 40 square inches of port area be sufficient?
  11. Just wondering what's the best position in the trunk if I am designing a new sub box (around 2.5cft - 28hz) for my SUV. I've gathered generally rear facing will be best (if not which direction would be recommended for sub and port?) but sort of have 3 designs, one with the box right back to the rear seat, about midway and a lower but longer box getting the sub much closer to the rear. I am guessing the longer box closest to the rear trunk will load the loudest? Other ideas?
  12. Thanks, I think in terms of frequency I don't want to tune much below 30hz, but I do find I much prefer flatter response overall....will play around with WinISD to see what get's rid of the peaks.... I've found quite a few subs modeled have a peak around 34hz and up but it flattens quite a bit by around 28-30hz.
  13. Just wanting to see if I am on the right track with tuning, I much prefer a lower tune or bass around 30-32hz from what I've seen on a lot of rap songs. I find the higher 40-50hz can become a bit more boomy and in your ear type sound. Going off this lower range of say 30hz, would be a waste to tune much lower than this? The only benefit I can see if that the lower tune tends to flatten the response which is maybe what I am after? Would my aim be to tune as low as the sub/box shows in something like WinISD in say the 28hz-50hz range flat within a db a so without dropping too low in output overall? .....
  14. Thanks for the replies. Say I only change the subwoofer, would going Subwoofer a with xmax 13mm - 150oz motor - 85db sensitivity to Subwoofer b with xmax 26mm motor 300oz - 88db sensitivity sound around 3-6db louder given the same box and power/hit lower harder? Or would I probably only notice a difference when pushing the subs to their limits (xmax)? Example being, say I only upgrade the Skar SDR sub now with 800rms and change it to say a Sundown U12 which is about double the specs, would I notice a difference? I understand a 1500wrms amp later would help.....
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