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Qwiz

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  1. Last update: Reinstalled the amp and it works as it should. Conclusion: The package was handled in an unprofessional way by the Courier or it was already broken and the seller bet on the knowlendge lack of the customer, hoped to get away with it. In this case we would classify this company as a legit scammer.
  2. Update: The RCA Radio ground is ok. I was assured by the technician that everything should go just fine this time around. We'll see.
  3. I have never swapped or taken out any RCAs while the Radio or anything was on. RCAs were carefully handled always when the whole system was completely off. When signal was measured, it was made sure that the measuring clips were safely isolated. Perhaps this amp was already sent in a semibroken state in hopes of the client not noticing its mono output. Be that case, guess these "businessman" in car audio are taking risks when normal clients order and not "specialized" dealers. They bet on it. Or maybe it got broken during shipping somehow. When I first open the package, the styrofoam was broken from aggressive handling. Update: The technician has confirmed that the grounds are fine. Once he is convinced that the Radio RCA ground is also ok, then I have the guarantee that once installed it should work.
  4. The ground is ok. And no short in the speakers or similar is present. Everything is in check. On their diagnostic repair sheet:" [...]The burnout of the RCA ground COULD ALSO HAVE BEEN CAUSED by a faulty groundpoint, faulty Power Supply or a short of the speaker cables with the chassis. [...]"
  5. Update: They have said they ve diagnosed it and are happy to inform me that it is was a faulty installation from my side, namely a poor bad ground which caused the RCA ground to overheat and melt disconnect from the inside. I can confirm 0%. Now the amp is on its way back. According to this, reconnecting it should cause the same issue. I am going to test the grounds throughly. I wonder if they have already prepared a new excuse once they find my grounds are ok. All of it makes no sense to me it seems all a joke bs. Lucky they got me now to deal with.
  6. I have tested with RCAs only and got the same result. So in theory there is no issue with the balanced inputs, since through both we've got the same issue. Funny thing is when you test the output without speakers, it outputs stereo. Once you hook the speakers up it makes it mono. I have put another amp in, which performed fully stereo. This concludes the Hifonics amp was is in fact the issue here. I was torn apart. I was trying to find reasons elsewhere, put my knowledge under questionmarks, when this whole time this brand new amp was at fault. This amp is not designed by Maxxsonics, but by its "partner" in Europe, Germany, namely Audio Design Germany. I can see that what I am describing might be easily misinterpreted. Perhaps I did not use the right words. So we have two situations. Situation 1: No speakers connected -with balance setting on the radio set all the way to the left --the left outputs X Vrms and the right outputs 0 Vrms -with balance setting set all the way to the right --the left outputs 0 Vrms and the right outputs X Vrms From this we conclude that the stereo function is OK. Situation 2: Speakers connected -with balance setting on the radio set all the way to the left --the left outputs X/2 Vrms and the right outputs same X/2 Vrms (X being the value from Situation 1) -with balance setting on the radio set all the way to the right --the left outputs X/2 Vrms and the right outputs same X/2 Vrms From this we conclude that the stereo function is pretty much GONE, because speakers were connected. By "the left outputs..." I mean the left amp speaker outputs. I have started this test by premeasuring the Radios RCA L and R Cable Ends, whose outputs were OK. I have switched to another amp and boom we have stereo. Final conclusion: Hifonics amp exerts stereo issues. Amp was sent back to them. I'll come with an update soon. See what they have to say about it. I will attach a test sheet if you are curious. Although it is in german and could appear different on your pc or phone due to DOC migration issues, the recorded values should be able to tell what is going on. Line.doc
  7. After further investigations I have come to the following conclusion: With no speaker connected to the amp, the balance setting left right or center seems to be working. Once speakers get connected, this balance setting becomes useless. It almost has no effect. They both continue playing a little bit quieter left or right and louder when set on center. Has this happened to anyone of you guys? Like when you test your amp without speakers everything seems like it should be and once you connect them it's a hell of an issue. Speakers are all in check as well as their cables. This has been tested using an Oscilloscope. Example: Having the balance set all the way to the left we have: Situation 1) No speakers Amp left output: couple of Vrms Amp right output: zero Vrms Situation 2) With 2 speakers left and right Amp left output: less couple of Vrms than in Situation 1 Amp right output: same as left output, less couple of Vrms than in Situation 1 What the hell is this?
  8. It is a Hifonics Andromeda X4. After a more through inspection, came to the conclusion it's the amp. There is unfortunately no stereo separation. Bought it new. I am using balanced because with my last amp I have been using RCAs and had a slight noise in the tweeters. Although this might have more to do with that amp, I have decided out of safety reasons (paranoia) that for this new amp I would use its balanced inputs. For which I needed another device, small, Hifonics BLT4. This particular model has RCA inputs and BLT outputs. It is present by other manufacturers under their brand name, such as ESX. I said why not using that. I had to disassemble the whole car and redesign the amp rack took me a long time. And all I have is this now
  9. Salutations. I recently stumbled upon the following: When trying to set the Balance setting all the way to the Left, the Left and the Right speaker are a few db down (almost to half volume), but overall same db level (L and R). Analog when setting the Balance all the way to the right. Same thing happens. Prior I have installed a Hifonics amp and used its balanced inputs for the signal. For this I extra needed an RCA to BLT device, Hifonics too. L and R RCA HU outputs go into this small device. From there it outputs one single balanced cable that goes into the amp's balanced input. The problem is that there is no recognition between L and R. I most definitely did something wrong (checked 10 times). Would you guys have any suggestions?
  10. The sub amp location is in the trunk. First I took the sub output RCAs out from the amps input socket. And tested both L and R (so for this like you said, I tested the end of the SUB RCA's coming out from the deck). This implies that the deck's output tested through the end of the RCA cable coming into the trunk is clean all the way. With this in mind we have eliminated the headunit as a potential culprit. Next I connected the sub RCAs back to the sub amp's input socket and tested the amp's speaker terminals. This signal however was not clean, as you can observe in the video. I finally swapped the JL amp with a Mosconi one I had. Tested again the speaker outputs in the same conditions. This signal was clean and looked smooth. With this we conclude that the JL amp is somehow not delivering what it should. But even with all of this, even with a clean bass output from Mosconi, I always experience MUFFLED BASS in this car. In my previous post I explain the situation more in depth. I do not want to believe that a car's acoustic properties/inner properties can influence in sucha negative way, can destroy any listening experience. I really want to deny that this is all exactly because of this, of the acoustics. I cannot experience the sub bass like I used to know it in this car. This car does not like subbass or something else is happening. Either way this whole thing is overwhelming. LE: The negative factory battery wire has near its pole connection (on the wire itself) a tiny black rectangular control device, with a small 10A fuse in it. When I suggested the shop to replace it with a wider more powerful one, they said you can't just put any wire in there due to the small control device attatched to it, which seems to stay in the way of things. From their perspective I should either let it get replaced with a SIMILAR one (wire+control device attatched) or say goodbye to the idea. Everytime I tried suggesting any electric upgrade I was immediately put down (like who am I to even dare to have such basic knowledge). So according to them, the electric upgrade chapter was out of the question. Not to mention the other countless car audio shops I went to. No matter what I wanted, either couldn't be done or I was a major idiot for even daring to ask. Here in Germany and Romania too, after so many negative experiences I decided that I must stay the f away from these specialistsshops, esoecially when it comes to bass. Figure it out on your f own. Saving money for a long time, daily dreaming about your first new car. Getting the car, putting a new system in it, lying to yourself for a while, pretending it sounds good. You have days and days. This up and down game was based on the songs played. Few of them sounded fine. There was always this sinewave of feelings. Today ok tomorrow not ok. At the end I realized it was all a joke actually. Even the "good sounding" tunes were in fact a joke. Then you take it into your own control, you gain new knowledge as time passes. 5 years and counting I am still in this game. I still have no concrete answer as to why. All I have are assumptions.
  11. Thanks mate. In my other posts I raised other issues connected to this, which to this day no exact answer was found to. Basically the problem in this car is the sub output between 25-80Hz. No matter the amp/sub, a linear bass output could not be reached. Other than that, merging with the mains has never happened. For example, from the driver or passenger position, with any phase/time alignment settings, we have cancellation -6-10db between 44-46Hz and 58-80Hz respectively. Crossed high (200Hz) for this particular test (sinesweep 20-80Hz) with no mains in play to potentially excuse the latter cancellation. Acoustics? I would also point out that any sub (located in the trunk, or anywhere in the car, no matter its firing position) on any amp plays (alone without the mains) muffled. It never sounded clean. There is no noise in the system. I might be relocating the power and ground wires for the headunit, by making them common to the amp distro block. May not help at all but why not.
  12. Yep it´s a 0db Tone off of a USB Stick. No filters applied. The signal from the PRS was tested prior and it was clean all the way to max. After the JL amp test, I hooked up a class AB from Mosconi, whose results were very clean, as expected. The JL RD 1k amp I bought it 3 years ago and I suppose its output was like this since the beginning. Back then I didn´t have the O scope, nor any useful knowledge. LE: Another thing to mention is the clip indicator on JL does NOT detect such desecrated distorsion. It only lights up when the wave is fully destroyed. It always sounded funny to me this amp, nevertheless I thought this is how it is supposed to be, which is definitely not the case. I would argue the FFT function of the signal on the JL, which this scope is not capable of. The amount of harmonic distorsion expressed by this amp is mos def off the chart. PERHAPS might be worth mentioning that one day bass went off for "no reason". Turned out that the AMP GROUNDWIRE fell off while driving, i.e. disconnected, flew off from its socket due to rookie installer skills. The positive was still connected. So I went and disconnected the negative from the BATTERY and rewired everything back. It seemed to be fine. But maybe, just maybe, this DID something bad to the internal circuit. The amp was handled with proper care this whole time, I did not harass it in any way or form.
  13. Not the case. I hooked up an AB Class afterwards and the sinewave was clean. I am curious to find out what´s causing this dirty output? I mean, it is the amp causing it, but what exactly? Is this a common issue with some D class amps? It looks desecrated, you know?
  14. No. The source signal is coming from an 80Prs, which was beforehand measured and clean all the way. If you don't believe me, I could make a separate video.
  15. Does this look legit? Video
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