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Qwiz

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  1. I have gone and changed the whole thing. Before I had it: Front System amp under the passenger seat; Bass amp on the left back seat. Is it important to mention those back seats have no insulation, therr's just some cardboard under the coverage lol, while in my other car there was bare metal? Now I have brought the 2 amps under the trunks carpet, rewired everything again. Changed the Bass amp to Mosconi One 240.2, sub still pops but now it's quieter on turn On or Off. With thr JL amp was more noticeable. So now with this other amp and sub in the trunk, I still experience cancellations 55Hz - 70 75Hz. I need to put the sub on the back seat to avoid this. The sub is reproducing those freqs normally because I stood next to it. I thought the sub wasn't reproducing these when in fact the cars acoustics somehow cancels those waves when sub in trunk and while on driver seat lol. Tried Phase and Crossover settings you always lose the upper bass range with it in the trunk. Bass is now better since this is class AB amp, but still, with this new bought sub I experience port chuffing with certain songs? Bottom line is in this car, trunk is the last place sub should be placed in.
  2. ok so I disconnected the remote cable from the Front system but only on end of the Mosconi amp, I wasn't in the mood of disconnecting the wire from the back of HU, don't think it matters as long as it doesn't ground to something. I then set back the switch to REM sub still pops at radio on and radio off too. There is this anomaly to mention like why when the Switch is on DC Offset the sound is improved but still not ideal? I moved the sub in the trunk and it didn t turn out to be a good idea. Everytime it goes in the trunk the freqs 55hz-70hz are VERY silent. You literally have to be near the sub otherwise waves are being canceled. Or maybe the signal output is distorted (possibly JL amp defekt?) so that it causes those cancelations to occur while in the trunk? Ithen put it back in the back seat seem satisactory. Anyway so why does the sub still pop? I am surprised I didn t set the car on fire yet
  3. But if that fixes it, I would need a relay for the mosconi to be also on right?
  4. I don't have any relay. DO I NEED ONE? Is there a specific post for this? Are the remote wires causing the sub to pip every time Radio goes on or OFF. The 2 remote wires coming from the 2 amps are both crimped and connected to the remote wire of the PRS. I initially thought maybe the switch DC Offset represented Remote, this being a factory issue, just throwin that out there. The bass is much much clearer I don't know if it's ideal, I need more time testing. The sub pops everytime I turn the Radio on and this happens to the sub only, regardless of the switch being on DC Offset or REM. Strange thing is that the Front speakers don't pop, never popped on turn on, only the sub. Do you think this is the issue? I thought about what you've said. Disconnecting the Mosconi remote wire. Yeah because in my other car there was only one amp. In this car I have always had 2. Maybe someone could explain more in depth this phenomenom. Also when you have 2 or more amps, and not having a 2 channel oscilloscope, how can you know they are in phase? I suppose when you have just one amp and the front speakers aktive they are autimatically in phase? So many things lol
  5. Warning. You are not gonna believe this shit. It's clear now. I hope this doesn't turn out to be another illusion tomorrow. I did something today. I flipped a switch on that amp. You wouldn't guess which one. That did the magic in the end. Heard clean bass from the port. Every tune seems to sound exactly as I remember it. I now get the chest pounding upper bass and clean lower bass. All for a goddamn switch. I would presume there is something wrong with that part of the power supply section of the amp or something. Because what I did shouldn't have had such a great effect on everything. Here's what I mean. I have 2 amps and their remote wires are connected to the corresponding blue wire from the HU. The Mosconi amp just has a remote wire and no remote turn on settings. On the other hand, as you can see in the picture, the sub amp JL has 3 turn on features. I had it always set on REM according to the manual. Until today. I initially set it on Signal. No difference except when it turned off, the sub made a popping sound. Said ok, now let's set it to DC Offset. All of these settings were set while the remote turn on wire is still connected. Next thing I knew... wtf this is not real, tight bass? something must be wrong I thiught. So I began listening to dozens of my old songs and it sounds good. I will have to test it for a week straight. Every tune. It sounds this good with a flat EQ and still on the back seat. I can't even imagine how good it would sound in the trunk. Will come with a follow up tomorrow. Hmmm maybe the Radio isn't ideally wired. Found this regarding DC applied on a speaker. Could it be that the distortion I was experiencing was according to this post? " Now if you would apply a DC signal there would be a constant force working on the voice coil constantly moving it a little bit to the front or (if you reverse the polarity) a little bit to the back. If you would also apply an AC signal the loudspeaker would still work but on average it would not be in it's center "resting"position. This DC signal induces a constant force on the voice coil but it also heats it up as there is a current flowing and since the voicecoil's electrical wire has some resistance (4 or 8 ohms usually) some power will be dissipated heating up the voice coil. Another side effect is that good loudspeakers are designed such that the voice coil can move a certain distance to the front and a similar distance to the back. If you apply a DC voltage then you offset this as the distance the voice coil can travel will be asymmetric. If the voice coil can move 10 mm to the front and 10 mm to the back but you offset it with a DC signal by 5 mm to the front, the voice coil can only move 5mm to the front and 15 mm to the back. This will result in more distortion and worse sound quality." Like the sub moved unnaturally. So even though the problem may have been solved (needs intensive testing), I still want to understand why.
  6. In my previous car I remember feeling the bass more than hearing it, remember hair on the head and arms vibrating, water in the can or in the bottle vibrating. On the other hand, on this other car, although I have almost double the power of the other system, there seems to only be loud and disturbing. Not that disturbing but why can I not FEEL the bass here? I don't feel hair vibrating, it's only a little bit in my back, a little vibration, but nothing great. What does this mean does anyone have an idea? Why does body hair not vibrate although a lot of air is moving inside the car, I mean it is making the car vibrate and all, but in the air inside there iss no pressure, the only pressure is felt at the ear level, a disturbing pressure feeling, nothing in the air though. Weird...
  7. Seems no matter how you position the box in the trunk, the same output is presented. I have tested it by puttin the box in the tire well firing every possible direction, it still outputs the same disturbing low freqs. I just want to set that car on fire. The Front System is a 16,5cm component one. When I set that to play the lows only, they output such a clean and enjoyable bass. It's only when the sub comes into play it ruins everything. When the sub is on the back seat it seems better but it's still not enough, it still seems it plays muddy on some songs so... what I thought yesterday is again an illusion. It seems no matter where you put the goddamn thing, it will always have some kind of disturbance. So since bass from Front system is clean, I thought about disconnecting it and then connecting the sub bridged. I would get 350W. Maybe after all these sloppy "diagnostics" and ideas I got to were half true and maybe it's the JL amplifier the culprit? My ears are done with that bass sound, I hate it. I am going to go cold turkey on listening music in this car. I hate this car
  8. So these are the results. Sub on back seat OK. Sub back in the trunk not OK. If the reason is not the cars acoustics, then why is this happening? You're telling me I still have muddy sloppy bass all the time, only when the sub is on the back seat it masks the impression of a clean output or what?
  9. Video of disassembled trunk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_udVX2JjOpo Video of the best sub location with satisfying bass output no cancellations https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iLMICWKFl8Y In the video I have Front HPF 100Hz 12db, I found better settings meanwhile, Front HPF 63Hz 12db. Those door speaker are not cheapos, at higher volume they generate quite some pressure in the legs feel them vibrating. Once I move the sub in the trunk everything shatters to pieces. It sounds so horrific when it's in the trunk lol. Let me make this clear again. Once I move it to the trunk, it sounds extremely disturbing like distortion amplified, this NO MATTER THE SETTINGS, you go change phases slopes points eeverything is the same, it is a one note bass generated more or less depending on freq, very weird... I might seal that gap in the future with some mdf plates somehow to make the trunk area similar to that of Peugeot 206. I didn't know the car played such a crucial role in bass rendering. I think it was pure luck in the beginning. If you watch the second video, even the camera mic doesn't distort very much the sound it makes is almost similar without distortion, for what comes to my ears in comparison to the audio of the video. So maybe you could judge a little bit if that bass note is clean or not. Anyway if you take from your time to watch the videos would mean a lot to me, maybe someway somehow you have another view on this. Thank you all who have replied and taken their time. Thank a you PS: Still breaking in the sub so no excessive power was introduced to it
  10. That area under the carpet is roughly 2 cubic feet maybe more. I am sorry after recalculating it it's maybe closer to 4 cubic feet, unlike I stated in the pic, it's pretty big basically. I also really want to think what you're thinking, I wish this so hard. If I had one of you guys near and I knew you have heart for fellow bass heads, I would have payed you at least 200 euros just to diagnose and tell what is going on. Just tell me like:" ok so this was it..." Bass output is ok as long as that goddamn box is not located in the trunk. On the back seat seems fine. I am going to disassemble and take out the trunk cover and the other separated panels and leave the whole trunk empty with the spare tire well place in sight. Gonna give it a test. Another thing I am going to do since I have so many subs. The newest sub is a 10 inch 2x2 Ohm and the other I wanna hook up just to mess around is the jl 12w3v3 1x4 Ohm. Gonna hook them both to the JL amp see if that makes any difference. Aaron the way you are seeing it is as if somehow the signal is being distorted straight from either the amp or the HU. Isn't this what you're thinking? Because I have already eliminated that possibility. Also if an amp has a clip indicator on it and at the same time the amp is putting out a distorted signal no matter the power reproduced, does its CLIP indicator light up in that situation too? Like you could have the clip indicator which I do on my Jl amp, you could have it also as a sign telling you the amp is not working good?
  11. About that box with those subs why do they spell disaster, was that the aim of its designers? Why does it sound so badin comparison to the other sub box? I think I know what you are trying to explain, you are trying to explain the Impedance vs. the DC Resistance. But that still doesn't explain why it's sounding bad. The tire well in that video is not that hollow or deep like mine. On my car, once I take the plastic cover from the trunk, I can see the tire well, but cannot access it fully yet, it's starting to deepen itself 10-15cm down from the base height of the plastic cover and only then the tire well starts to deepen. If I want to access the tire wells bare metal, I need to first take the plastic cover out, then disassemble another plastic rectangular piece which surrounds the main plastic cover, and only then. So just imagine that under that plastic cover there is a lot of space, like roughly 60litres or more. Yes sir I did that too, I played with the position and firing with NO improvements. I am going to disassemble the whole trunk and leave just bare metal. It will not be just bare metal because I have dynamat all over the tire well and trunk area and see if that makes a difference, with only the sub in that place. If it's not the trunk area then what is it? The new sub is perfect in a perfect box, the amp and radio are not cheapos, as well as the radio, what is it? If I could just get my hands on an o scope and test the output of the amp, to be 100% sure it has a clean wave. I tested the signal already by changing the amp and the radio and things were the same. But just to make sure an O scope would be the best.
  12. It's the only thing left in the equation, that hollow space. I don't have a custom box for that tire well there and I don't intend putting anything in that hole. I think I may need to somehow seal that location with some custom thick mdf plates and need to think of a good rubber isolation or something. The trunk is like a second sub box for the passengers isn't it? Like how the car is a third sub box for someone standing outside. That is why I am thinking that that hollow space is the culprit. It's ruining the bass output as it makes its way to the passenger side. Quick throwback, I remember since I got the first sub in this car, it sounded like this since the very beginning with different amps, different Radios, different cables lol. It sounded like this since I got it upgraded, has this "uuuuuuuu" sound, every bass note from those overemphasized fre intervals (30 - 42Hz and 49 - 65Hz). I remember this clearly. The bass sounded like this since the very beginning lol. SO yeah, the trunk must be the culprit! I have changed so many things I invested over 4k in this and I hope this is the reason why and once I isolate that tire well hollow space I will know. I found a specific video on youtube. The guy testes 2 sub-amp combos with an OEM Radio. 1st combo: an active sub 2nd combo: a passive sub with a separate amp. The trunk of that car has that tire well which starts to deepen only at the hole, but it's not that hollow like mine is, mine is 10cm deeper and then it deepens even more for the spare tire to fit. So as the guy tests the 1st combo with the active sub, everything is nice. Then tries the other combo and his face is exactly like my face lol. The video has CC subtitles too, what he concludes with the 2nd combo ist that bass is overemphasizing. Link to video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TFpfAfIofOY skip to the 24 Minute to see his face. He didn't explain why it sounded like that with the second combo. He just stated that the power of that Mosconi Pico amp is somehow not compatible with that sub...
  13. I don't have. I did test the system with another amp another box and another Radio results were the same. This led me to believe that there was no problem with the signal from Radio up to the outputs of the amp, led me to believe it's the car acoustics, namely its shape. Under the trunks carpet there is a hollow area for the spare tire. This car version has instead of the physical spare tire a small flat tire kit, so that the area under the carpet is very hollow. I still need to eliminate the possibility that the whole signal is clean from source to output. I think I will buy an O-scope, in spite the fact we have already tested that the signal is clean at that shop, in spite the fact this amp has a clip indicator but whatever, I want to do this alone. Back to that hollow space under the trunks carpet, I seriously think that's causing this bass overload @ around 50Hz. Because this topic is so long, I will have to quote my earlier posts, when I specifically said that once I set on the GraphEQ the 50Hz Band to Minus 6db (max) bass output is way cleaner (this with the sub in the trunk, where it shouyld always be). Also when I put the sub box on the back seat it reproduces the same cleaning effect with a flat EQ, so without reducing the output of 50Hz band. The subs output with a sine sweep 30hz-120hz sounds weird. 30 - 42Hz ok-ish but still a bit overmphasized 43 - 48Hz this is very weird, as the bass output silences, I get a huge dip right here, it's like that hollow space is cancelling these waves 49 - 65Hz ok-ish still overmphasized 66 - crosspoint (80Hz) again a huge dip, bass output silences. * all of these happen when the sub is located in the trunk area, it doesn't matter it's firing position or its position whatsoever Now when I play the same sweep when the sub is on the back seat I get a clean output no overemphasis and no dips. I am thinking that hollow space under the trunks carpet doesn't allow this car to be pressurized like it should. In my other car Peugeot 206 once you lift the trunks carpet everything is bare flat metal like you see below, there is no hollow space for the spare tire.
  14. Everything sounds the same even with this new sub. All of the subs I had sounded way better when they were lying on the back seat. It seems that the trunk of this car is the culprit. So I am done with car audio in this car. Case closed.
  15. I understand I will try and do that if this is not going to work. What you re implying is that I should do something completely new and I am not ready for it now. There isn't one single website or car audio shop in all germany which advertizes custom made sub boxes or anything custom for that matter. All they have is prefab. Going to an audio shop would be another possibilty for which I for now have no intention doing it since my last car audio shop experiences were awful. It's like they hate the fact you know a little bit about car audio lol Anyway I expect this sub to play ok. If this is not the case then it's 100% the cars acoustics. I desperately need to know the reason for this with high prices
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