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About RobertK

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  1. 2 NEW skar audio 6.5" neodymium mids, 260 watts rms, 520 peak. 250 x 2 watt amp. No, i did not figure out power as I was doing this, but didn't SEEM like 200 watts... I played a 1000 htz test tone through head unit, slowly turned up gain on eq line out. 1000 htz got louder and louder, then at a certain point, it instantly changed to a higher htz, like maybe 1500 to 2000 htz? I didn't test for power output of amp because it's a pain to get to. So maybe??? Speakers new, not broke in? Over powered speakers? Gain match to far off on amp? Who knows... Could be all of above... Stereo is playing fine atm, and positive I'm not running 200 x 2 yet. I figured I would break them in first, then set the amp at 200 x 2 and see what happens. BUT... With amp set at 200 x 2, and speakers broke in, should I be able to play a 1000 htz test tone all the way up to 200 watts? AWESOME speakers BTW. Wish they would go lower than 100 htz, but sound great!
  2. 2 - 6.5" massive "sumo" svc 4 ohm subs rated at 150 watts rms, 300 watts peak. JL Audio 300/2 amp. regulated power... 150 watts x 2 at 1.5 ohms to 4 ohms, no matter. OR 300 x 1 at 3ohms to 8 ohms no matter. Amp warns DO NOT go under 3 ohms bridged, or lower power circuit will kick in, so 2 subs parallel won't work. Currently, I have the subs series to 8 ohms, amp running at 300 x 1 at 8 ohms. Sounds fine. My question is... will I get louder OR stronger bass running [email protected] and 300 watts (each sub getting 150 watts) OR will i get louder OR stronger bass running 2 at 4 ohms separate to each amp channel (150 watts each sub). Subs are mounted in same air space box, to one side, rectangle port on opposite side supposedly tuned to 33 Htz.
  3. So... To start, I'm broke. My system is small, cheap, but I tried to check reviews and dyno tests before buying equipment. 2007 Silverado classic crew cab. I want subs to fit behind rear seat, so very shallow subs and boxes. Sony "1000" watt max 12" sub (prob 250 rms) and sound stream 13.3 500w max, 200rms sub, both 4 ohm, paralleled. sealed boxes, I like tight bass anyway, besides behind rear seats. Amp is a B&B 2000. Rated at 900watts at 2 ohms. Today, I played test tones, (25 to 80, 5hz steps) listened and watched ac voltage at speaker terminals. initially, I set the sub sonic at 35ish, and tried to use bass boost and bass boost freq to even out the voltage across 40 to 80hz. When that was done, I played 50hz, and set gain to 900watts. (900 x 2 ohms=1800, square root of 1800 is 42.43 volts.) (Head unit was set to 32 out of 40, 95% sure no distortion.) Front 6.5 polk audio separates and tweeters, 100 rms, 300 max. Running 250 watts per side, they sound pretty happy. Some recordings may be a little too high at 250 watts, most are fine. Anyway.... Turn usb thumb drive on, start picking songs I know that have decent tight bass. Bass sound good, but low. Barely mixing in with fronts at 22 volume, mostly blah at 32 volume. Tight bass, but unimpressive. I had better bass setting the amp by ear. Formula says 900 watts at 32 volume. 2 - 12's with 250ish rms each should do ok at 500 watts, be over driven at 900 watts. What gives? So... Turn fronts and rears down to 1/4 rca output, left the subs full rca level out. (Should still be 900 watts at 32 volume.) Play AC/DC first, repeat 4 or 5 times, then Jackyl 4 or 5 times. Slowly adjusted sub sonic till sounded better. Slowly upped bass boost freq and level till it hit like I thought it should. Turned mids and highs back up. Sounds pretty good, except on some songs, I can only turn pac-1 (just a rca level control) on bass amp maybe a 1\4 way up before sounding like I'm overdriving the poor subs. Other songs, (Prince, Steely Dan...) I can turn pac-1 90% and sound pretty good. If I pick one of the songs that sounds like it will overdrive the subs and set the gain to 900 watts, the bass goes down a fair amount, and the other songs then go back to ho-hum bass. I'm just frustrated. Pick the right song, and the truck is loud and clear enough to never need another system. Roll down the windows on the expressway, and still be plenty loud. Pick the wrong song, and I have too much yucky bass, or barely enough bass to fill in with the highs. Granted, sound quality and record quality of songs, but still. Having to play with the pac-1 on every song is both a blessing and a pain in the ass, and I'm afraid to put the meter back on the bass amp to see if and how much I'm overdriving the cheap subs. So... Any tuning suggestions that might level out the bass a little better, but keep it able to stay on the 900 watts target? The bass amp is rated at 900 watts RMS at 2 ohms. I can't imagine its putting out much more than that. I just want hard, solid bass, not the rap stuff, and not have to have that extreme range on the pac-1. (sometimes overdrive subs at 10%, to barely mix in bass at 90%) I do have to run bigger wire to the amps, but so far, they are dealing with the 4 and 8 gauge runs. If I ever get off my ass, I have 0 gauge welding wire to run to the amps, then a 0 to (dual) 4 gauge splitter to go to the amps. Sorry for the long read. Just trying to give as much details as I can.
  4. So, as a follow up. Nothing I did would keep that pioneer even remotely cool. I even turned down the gain to about 60 watts per channel, and it still got too hot after an hour of cranking it. I finally bought a new class D amp on amazon, that was dyno'd at over 350 watts x 2 at 4 ohms, figuring I can hopefully run it at 150 watts x 2 and keep it cool. So far, by using the formula for voltage output (ohms law, lol) I'm putting out 200 watts x 2 at 4.2 ohms, and my front speakers are still begging for more! I'm leaving it as is right now, till I get a DD1 meter, but I'm at 32 out of 40 on my head unit, all is very clear and loud, and no heat out of the bass or mid/highs amp. So we will see. Still need new power wire ran, and a little more bass, but very happy at the moment, especially when the mid / high amp was only $114 new. The bass amp is also class D, 800 watts x1 currently, and only paid $50 used.
  5. Hot enough that you can't touch it more than a second or two???
  6. So, I have a tiny system compared to most of you all. 2007 Silverado classic crew cab. Stock alt, (130 amp) Batt in front only. CCA 4 gauge and 8 gauge power wires running to under rear seat. Big 3 or 4 upgrade done with CCA 1/0 wire. Pioneer dbl din AVH-1330NEX head unit Real 8 awg wire going to Alpine 45X4 rms power brick to rear doors / Kenwood 3 way 6.5's. (For fill, running maybe 30 watts) 4 gauge going to BB 900x1 amp powering 2 Sony 12" 300 watt rms shallow mount subs parallel to 2ohms. 8 gauge (4 gauge ground maybe?) going to Pioneer 150x2 rms amp powering Polk Audio 6.5 separates, 1" tweeters, and passive crossovers. (Rated at 100 watts rms, 300 max) In front doors. Bass amp stays cool to warm, would guess I'm running it around 600 to 700 watts maybe. Mid amp, now Pioneer 150x2, (old amp was a Fosgate prime 125X2) Gets very hot, even turning gain down to what I guess is maybe 100x2. The Fosgate amp also got very hot, which is why I switched to the Pioneer. I'll check the ohms tomorrow. (Can you check ohms on component speakers on a passive crossover?) Can the amps heat up that much because of small 8 gauge wire? Can it be from 8 gauge positive, 4 gauge ground? (I think it's 4 gauge ground.) Anything else to check? I could run 1/0 welding wire to the back seat, then split to dual 4 gauge I guess. How can I prove that will solve the problem? And no, I'm not going any higher amps, I just want this to run cool / warm, and reliable. It's loud enough for me, and my budget!
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