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Leiderlife

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  1. Ok, after some research I discovered that the woofer has its own crossover built in. What I don’t like is that the woofer acts as the junction that the tweeters come off of. This means you have to run 2 sets of wires into the doors. That seems stupid when most other sets split at the crossover.
  2. Anyone have any experience with one of these subs? I plan on pairing a single 12 d4 with an audiocontrol 1.1500. thanks
  3. So what do I set the crossover on the amp to if they aren’t separate? Does it wind up playing high frequency through the woofer too?
  4. So in the manual for my type r components it shows a wiring diagram. On this diagram it shows the speaker wires that come from the amp go directly to the midwoofer. There are dual connections on the woofer and from there they lead to the crossover and then to the tweeter. I am kind of confused. I have always seen the amp go directly to the crossover and then to the woofer and tweeter. Does this mean that the woofer is active? Sorry if this is a noob question.
  5. Ok so I just read all 11 pages of the alpine deck topic and learned a lot! I now find myself questioning which head unit I should purchase. I had my heart set on Alpine but not after reading that topic. I have not bought a hu in over 10 years. I am in the market for a no frills single din. All I need is the ability to play cds, usb and aux on front face, 3 sets of outputs that deliver clean voltage at a reasonable level (4-5 volts). What is the go to?
  6. Hello, can anyone recommend a good amp to power a set of type R 6.5 components? They are 100rms but I have heard they sound better a little overpowered. Not really familiar with all the new brands and quite frankly I am indecisive. I am willing to spend a decent amount but not high end.
  7. Ok thanks! Can anyone recommend a sub for this enclosure? Something in the 1500-2000 watt range?
  8. The box was originally built for a FI btl neo. I wound up selling the sub before I installed it but I am considering getting another one. Or a Q mostly old school hip hop with some decaf sprinkled in and some country.
  9. Ok so I have a box that was made for me a while ago and I never got around to using it. It was made for a single 12. I have only dealt with sealed boxes in my past which were easy to figure out. I know there are calculators out there but I am having a hard time figuring it out. If I post the details can someone figure it out for me? Outside dimensions are 32 x 16.75 x 14.5 it is made with 3/4 plywood and has a double front baffle. Port measures 13 x 2.75 and is roughly 29” in length. Corners are 45’d and there are no kerfs. Everything is just rounded over. Please let me know if I missed anything.
  10. Thanks. Yes it is a rectangle. So the length is not factored in?
  11. Hello, sorry if this is a noob question. I have measured my port and I still can’t seem to determine the area. I have a slot port box that has been laying around and I’d like to use it. In order to determine which sub would work best I want to figure out how much area the port has. Can someone explain to me how to measure a slot port and determine the square inches? Thanks!
  12. Thanks for the replies guys! I need some direction and I appreciate it. I’m trying to do this right!
  13. Hello, been lurking for a while. This is my first post. Long story short I’m coming off a 10 year hiatus from car audio after I clipped my last system and wrecked everything. Around that time I decided to rebuild the right way and had a box made by Davetheboxguy for a single 12” fi btl neo. Some life changing stuff happened and i never got around to installing. I sold the sub and amp but I still have the box. My main question here is that I would like to run this box with a sundown sa12 on a 1000 watt amp. It is 2.5 cubes tuned to 33hz. Is this too big for an sa12? Do I need to consider another sub? I would buy another fi but I don’t want to wait that long. Thanks!
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