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About Ohmmm

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  1. Well I'll be! I don't get notifications apparently. Thanks for the info guys. I've only done small-medium sealed boxes before so I wasn't sure how crucial it would be to brace for ported since the air moves so freely. Going with a 200 sqin. port. FI recommended a 40-42hz port tuning but I'm going to leave it long and trim down from there to find the sweet spot.
  2. Where can I find adjustable steel bracing like I see in so many big demo build videos? Still need to cut the center sheet to split the sealed and ported section and move forward from there. BARELY got the box in there so I can't have anything bigger than a flea's ass sticking out of the top of bottom. Any tips would be appreciated! Hell...is bracing even necessary for the ported section? 4, 12s. 2, 3.5ks.
  3. The picture attached is a basis of what I'm considering building for a trunk. I'm just not so sure if 2 subs facing up and 2 facing rear will sound good. I've only used sealed enclosures in the past but I can't get 4 12s to fit all rear firing in my trunk, which in my experience sounds the best and hits the hardest in the cabin. I'm dead set on 4 12s, and super curious how well I can make a ported enclosure sound. Does it matter which way the subs are facing as long as the port(s) are facing the right way?
  4. Hmmm...so if I only had 3 batteries in a daily setup, is it still necessary to charge them with a charger? I currently have a d4800 and d3100. Strapping the DC 3.5k eventually, but I really only go full tilt on the hwy. Right now both bats are staying topped off nicely after a nice half hour drive of bumpin. I appreciate the responses! Totally forgot I posted this last week.
  5. How many XS D3100s can a 370 amp alternator safely charge? Having trouble finding an answer or equation to figure this out.
  6. With that program could I basically just enter butt loads of different tsp from different subs with the box specs that fit best for my trunk to find which sub is going to have the best all around output?
  7. That's incredible. So, which direction would the port(s), and subs face?
  8. BYTizzle bit of a squeeze, eh? Verrrrry little increase in outside box dimensions is available. I'd say maybe an inch extra on width and depth without building it inside the trunk. If I did build it inside the trunk, which I'd rather not do, I have 41.5 inches of width well to well.
  9. 4 doors and trunk have about 90sqft of deadener. What do you mean by sealing them?
  10. The loss of midbass worries me since I don't have much room to beef up mid bass up front. Curious to see what BYTizzle comes up with. Trying to keep things looking stock. Saving for an audio control D800.4. There's mid tweets on the dash, component 6x9s in the front doors and 6.5 midranges in the rear doors out of the factory. Of course everything is crossed over and locked in with the factory amp which is why I'm getting the amp with DSP built in. Front doors currently only play 200hz and lower. Plan on switching those out with 6.5 midranges.
  11. For 2 15s Ive had my eye on the Fi SP4 v.2. I appreciate your feedback!
  12. The thing I worry about with porting is the short frequency range and lack of tone accuracy, as some days I listen to rock, some days I listen to wobbly, bass all over the spectrum, dubstep. I love how sealed is bone crushing on lows and zippy af on highs. Guess I'd consider myself an SQL guy? The only ported setup I've had was a couple of type R 12s in a prefab box, and there was two optimal peaks. Had to find the right songs to get it to sound good. Im hunting down subs that'll safely handle 7kwrms combined. Once I find a good deal on another DC 3.5k ill either strap them or run them separately. So, is the grass really greener for my listening preferences? Genuinely curious! I know ported is like 95% of what's out there these days so I'd have to guess someone's got it down pat.
  13. The only thing I don't like about the stinger is the lack of voltage output control. Saving up for an audio control d 800.4 amp for my front stage and going to use the customizable line out for sub amp.
  14. The lows are still there since it's a slope and not a complete cut off but I switched to a stinger line out converter to get the full range. I found myself having to boost the gain knob for low songs and reducing on higher songs. Then I researched and face palmed when I found on the audio control site the range is 33 to 100k or so. The lc6 and 7i and many others are good down to 10hz but I don't need a multy channel loc for now.
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