Jump to content

Rpg663

Members
  • Content Count

    19
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

About Rpg663

  • Rank
    120db
  1. It’s probably one of his sons beats, Anthony. He has a Youtube channel. It’s worth asking him probably.
  2. To put it simply, if you get a big lithium or agm, your alternator won’t be able to charge it fast enough. You’ll just have to have trickle charger going to it overnight after you beat on it. I don’t know if there would be any driving penalties as far as not having enough power for spark or anything if your alternator is so heavily taxed.
  3. Send a link of your box design and I’ll look it over.
  4. Sundown's own suggestions are pretty reliable. Tune to 35 Hz, about .7 cubes for each subwoofer. Here's the old product page for them, which will help you enter info on something like Sub Box Pro where you can play with measurements and port sizes until everything fits.
  5. So some manufacturers suck at giving box specs and I'm not sure where Massive stands. I'm looking at the EBP which is calculated by taking the F(s), or open air resonant frequency of the speaker and dividing it by the Q(es), or the electrical dampening of the speaker. This decides whether a driver is better suited for a sealed or ported box. EBP = 46.2 / 0.825 = 56 - So the sub in question is heavily favoring a sealed box, but could also be effective in a ported box. From here, I like going to speakerboxlite.com and putting in the parameters and playing with the box size to fit my ca
  6. Answers, aho! The red line is without the foam baffle, the green line is with the foam baffle. The results are pretty telling, other than the dip at 751Hz which might be the max accurately measurable frequency for the cone size before things get weird (EDIT: or the crossover between woofer and tweeter, which for some reason Sundown decided not to publish). Additionally it's good to see the tweeter's region remains unsubstantially changed, meaning there's fairly good consistency between my measurements. Starting from the bottom, it's obvious the Sundown component prefers no baffle under 148H
  7. At this point I can see no airflow-based reason to not do it. If I mount it on top, I can also double baffle it without extending the port.
  8. A lot of it is just how it sounds good to you. As far as safety, you’re not going to get more than a couple usable (Maybe 10?) Hz below tuning frequency. You can set the high pass to your box tuning frequency or a few Hz below. The crossover usually isn’t steep and will drop off in a slow slope (often (-24dB / octave) towards 0Hz. Low pass you can listen to a sweep and tune it by ear really on music for where it sounds non-musical.
  9. Massive has a contact email, [email protected] that you can contact. They don’t provide Thiele/Small parameters so you really don’t have the info you need to design one from scratch. I’m not sure if you could also just double the requirements for a single woofer in a ported box, maybe someone can chime in on that one.
  10. By dropping gain do you mean turning the mids down in EQ so you can turn it up louder?
  11. I'm realizing that the dimensions I've cut for do not provide the best rigidity. Could I move the sub to the top of the box instead of the front without sacrificing anything? Thanks
  12. No one answered my call at Sundown so I sent an email through their form on their website. No big deal, I'm testing anyway really. The foam pods / baffles are $10, and what is audio if not constant testing. So in nearfield measurement, the maximum frequency it can accurately measure depends upon the size of the cone. Since we're measuring a coaxial speaker with a tweeter and a midrange, I think the measurement will be interesting around these points. I'm using AudioJudgment.com's methodology for measuring. 1. I first calculated where the the point of possible distortion of the
  13. It does have a vented pole piece, but I truly think it's almost too bassy. Something sounds wrong, so I'm going to be measuring and publishing my findings. At the very least, the enclosure offers a good seal to the door. I have had this experience with them. I was hoping they'd chime in on here but I'm going to call now and keep everyone updated. My next post will probably be testing methodology.
  14. I’m more of a regular on AVS forums, and I read through something that said if you’re dumping power into a speaker, you probably want it to be moving a fair bit to cool it better. I’m thinking this is correct, so I’m going to cut a hole in the back of the enclosure. I have a measurement mic setup so I might do near-field comparisonS and post here. Limited by the fact that I can’t move the Miata out of the garage (active aero and engine rebuild going on) hopefully that won’t affect the results too much.
  15. I have a pair of Sundown's SA-6.5CX v2's in my 1997 Miata. The Sundowns wouldn't fit the door, so I cut the metal to fit them in there. The holes in the door panels are about 139mm and need to be about 150mm. Anyway, I put on some Fat Mat foam speaker baffles to seal the speakers from the inner door (gets wet in there when it rains). After this on one side, I noticed that the speaker was moving less, vs the one on the other side without the baffle was moving a lot more. Are these speakers not engineered to be in a baffle like this and benefit from the air acting as a cushion? I co
×
×
  • Create New...