swervinmylac
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Posts posted by swervinmylac
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dang man that sucks... but just use this as an excuse to come back bigger and better
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See my comments above in capitols
can it just be one extra batt or am i looking a whole fleet of batts?
and since it is more than one batt im going to assume that all batts would be wired together with both alts tied to just one?
i know these are noob questions but im sure that you can guess that the shoe does fit...
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THANKS YOU....
for answering my question.
I read another thread on here some where and this guy tried to wire up two alts and ended up getting 17 volts running with both alts and 14.4 with just one alt.
how would you hook this up?
and do you build dual alt brakets??? if you do i would need one shipped to 75203... i can get pics of the engine compartment if you need it
and would the power from both alts be combined or would you just have one running strictly to the batter for the car and the other running to a separate batt for the amps???
can you have a dual alt setup with just one batt?
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I tried asking this in the Electriacal Thread... but a suggestion was made for me to come here...
I have a hi output alt from a previous setup (150 idle/260 max) that was in a 93 cadillac.
I now a have a 92 caprice and of course the alt is not compatible. what i want to know is if you do a multiple alt setup do both alts have to be specifically made for your model vehicle.
In other words. can i keep the stock alt on the caprice and somehow use a dual alt bracket an attatch my old iraggi alt and still use the power it can generate?
im trying to see if i can somehow reuse the alt cuz the car engine died and i sold it to the junkyard... kept the alt but its just taking up space
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you get what you pay for IMO FTW
and your right... but no one has given me an example of whats wrong with mtx
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I just think that RF is a lot better than MTX when it comes down to amps, just my 2 cents
i totally agree with you... but rockford has a heavy pricetag...
rockford t4k=1500
mtx te4000.1d=600-750
unless any one can tell me where to get the t4k for a cheaper price
for shizzle
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The amp would have revisions for more power input if it needed it from the factory. You're actually over thinking it a bit, but that's good, you're being inquisitive about the installation.
On the rear battery, if you have a short enough run of 1/0 from the batt to the amp, the cable will be completely capable of handling the current load you will induce through it. Since music will be played, you wont come close to the fuse capacity anyway. Full power on tones is another story.
cool...i forgot about the fact that i wont actually pull what the fuse says otherwise the fuse would be no good... any way i have yet another question...
we all know that there are amps out there that dont come with onboard fuses... (such as the american bass vfl amps)... but they are rated to do different outputs and different voltages... how are you supposed to determine how big the fuse should be in order to protedt the amp?
or get an mla module/ switchable that isi planned on getting one but i still have to do some more research to find out EXACTLY what it does.
Hope u stay away from the MTXok whats wrong with mtx
for shizzle
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bump
for shizzle
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You can put a Knukonceptz ( or the like ) battery terminal that has three 1/0 outs allowing for multiple runs. I would do a run of 1/0 from the alt to one of the ports on the terminal, then two runs from the terminal of front battery to the rear batts. If you get a battery terminal with a ring style hook up, you can run virtually as many cables that will fit if needed.
thats what i was confused on... the alt to the first batt, but thanks for clearing that up...
so once you have the two runs of 0guage done on the batts... it is still just one 0 guage wire directly to the amp right??? but if the amp can pull over 325 amps how is one 0 guage wire gonna work with that application?
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OK... been doin some reading/research and ive come to a brick wall...
Can someone explain to me how running multiple 0guage wires is supposed to work(pics would be helpful if available... )
i know that you do one 0 guage wire from the alt to the batt in the front... but if you want to do two runs or more i have no idea as to how the hell that works...
the setup is gonna have 3 batts in total... one under the hood and two in the back if that helps
i know the max amperage for 0 guage is around 325a but the amps that im considering can pull upwards of 400a-500a.
someone please explain.
for shizzle
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still wouldn't hurt to put in two good batteries though.
it would hurt my wallet... j/k but i understand the logic
Whats your front battery? If its crap.. Your only strong as your weakess link... If crap bat up front.. I'd say yellowtop up front and D3100 in the back.. All 1/0 of course and Big 3... You can always get another D3100 if you need it later...yea i got a yellow top under the hood now(34/78) and the big three in 0 guage
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with that said, with 4000 watts, you shouldnt be parking lot bumping
keep the car running and watch your voltage, 4000 watts is an assload of current draw
this wont be for sitting still... i only bump on the freeway... on side streets i always turn the subs off and bump responsibly... never ever will i bump while sitting still unless its a maitenance issue
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just looked on mechmans site and found this...
D3100
[D3100] $349.00
Click to enlarge
Features »
The preferred battery of champions!
Capable of delivering an astounding 3,200 amps of current
Provides major output for starting power, audio, multimedia systems, and more
Fits BCI group 31 applications utilized in many large trucks, busses and motor coaches
Can easily power systems up to 4000 watts when used as the main battery
Great supplemental battery for 5000+ watt systems
3 Year Warranty
Specifications »
Weight 77.16 pounds (35.00 kilograms)
Length 13.03 inches
Width 6.89 inches
Height 8.43 inches
Maximum Amps 3200
Ah 117
if thats true... could i just buy one and add it on to my yellow top and still be ok... or would two of those in addition to my yellow top be better...
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thanks for the reply... but how long are these batts supposed to last before i have to let them charge? would i only have time for one song or would i be ok with a 30 minute ride at full tilt
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ive been looking for a 4000 watt amp and i had narrowed it down to two choices... the rockford t4k or the mtx te4001bd. now if i had the money i would just go ahead and get the rock ford but the mtx is cheaper so im settling for that right now... i have a HO alt from iraggi (150idle/250max) and a yellow top for the setup that i have now and it does just fine. my voltage doesnt go below 13.5. HOWEVER.....
i would like to go bigger. my next setup is gonna consist of two 15 inch sundown nightshades and the mtx 4001.
now for the question.... i know i will need more batteries in order to be able to :hairtrick: . but i have no idea what i need to look for... i couldnt even find the fuse rating for the amp... but ive been seeing that brands like kinetic, power master etc are the brands of choice... i went to kinetics website and used there calculator and it said that i should us two of there 2400 cells. is this right and are there any alternatives... also another question is how long are these batts supposed to last before i have to let them charge? would i only have time for one song or would i be ok with a 30 minute ride at full tilt... like i said LOTS OF GUIDANCE AND HELP IS NEEDED
FOR SHIZZLE
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your the reason why so many people hate cars that go boom.
I never bump anything in my hood, my friends dont bump in my hood either, its called respect, if you want it you must give it.
FOR SHIZZLE...
You guys know that the system is gonna be loud. why wouldnt you just save everyone the headache and just go to an empty lot or even a park... if he's complained before he' gonna do it again.
he wasnt right for threatening you guys or your cars but you still disturbed him. im going through the same thing right now with one of my neighbors who also likes to bump really hard... i havent said anything to him about it but thats because i understand how hard it is to find a spot to tune your equipment and whatnot.
GIVE RESPECT=GET RESPECT.
PRETTY SOON THE LAW WILL BE AGAINST YOU AND YOU WONT HAVE A CAR TO BEAT IN
just some thing to think about
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WHOOP THAT TRICK... WHOOP THAT TRICK!!! KICKIN ASS AND TAKING NAMES
FOR SHIZZLE
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Yeah it was definately an honest mistake, Its just hard as hell trying to trace my footsteps of where I have used it. I'm just so damn nervous about the whole situation.
be afraid... be very very afraid...
naw your good.. they cant convict you of something you didnt do.
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a LOT of people on here have dealt with them. theyre a good company. and they repair the amps at the same facility that rockford is made in, so you know its done right!
x2... they are great. even if its a holiday they ship you stuff out very fast... FTMFGDW
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Yellow top. On Optima's site they even say in their warranty, Do not use the red top for deep cycling, it will void the warranty so use the yellow top.
ommfg, finally someone who actually listened to the makers of the battery
thank you
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this thread hurt my brain.
RED TOPS -- not recommended for 'parking lot pimpin'. meaning, they need the alt and recharging/maintenance to stay alive.
YELLOW TOPS -- deep cycle, but don't expect a hell of a lot of full cycles.
BLUE TOPS -- exact same as yellow, but with 2 extra terminals for marine or w/e.
i've had diehards last longer than optimas. optimas typically will not last longer than any other leaky lead acid battery for a few reasons. it's said that optima's like 16v to fully charge. they are sealed. 16v + sealed = boil. you boil a sealed battery, kiss it goodbye. Even at 14v that thing is heating up. sealed/gel batteries dry up while charging just like a leaky lead acid battery...but you can't just add distilled water to it.
well the point of this thread is to try prove which battery is better for deep cycling, red top or yellow top...im not saying that either battery will like being deep cycled repeatedly, but to say that a "regular ol' leaky battery will perform the same or better than an optima seems funny to me. but any way this is strictly for red tops and yellow tops... i have no doubt in my mind that there are better batteries than optima out there, but this thread is not the place for them...
bottom line: when it comes to deep cycling, would you use a red top or a yellow top
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maybe a coincidence but every time ive tried to use a redtop in a stereo enviroment, it has died......my yellow tops have always lasted the entire time until i replaced them for other reasons (for better batts etc).
WWWOOOOOOTTTT!!!
this is the first time Steve has posted in one of my topics
im so proud (and no im not sack riding )
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I read this some months back on the12volt and it was pretty interesting. These guys really broke it down.
that thread was interesting... but didnt solve anything...
as far as deep cycling goes, i have no doubt that the red top has the ability, but how many times can it take that type of punishment...even OPTIMA themselves say not to use a redtop for deep cycling purposes...although the red top and yellow top have the same spiral cell construction, the plates in the yellow top would have to be thicker than the red tops in order to withstand MORE deep cycles...
i think alot of people get confused because of the fact that they are built the same way... but a question that and obswervation that would solve this question is:
OBSERVATION: most people who use opimas have a red top under the hood and yellow tops in the trunk... right?
QUESTION: if they are so sure that red tops are equal to yellow tops, why dont you ever see red tops in the trunk?
I'LL TELL YOU WHY, CUZ PEOPLE KNOW THAT THEY ARE NOT MEANT FOR DEEP CYCLING LIKE THE YELLOW TOPS...(thats just my own answer but this question is open to anyone who can dispute it)
Happy B-Day Nick (NDMstang65)
in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"
Posted
happy birfday