swervinmylac

happy birfday

dang man that sucks... but just use this as an excuse to come back bigger and better

and your right... but no one has given me an example of whats wrong with mtx

i totally agree with you... but rockford has a heavy pricetag... rockford t4k=1500 mtx te4000.1d=600-750 unless any one can tell me where to get the t4k for a cheaper price for shizzle

cool...i forgot about the fact that i wont actually pull what the fuse says otherwise the fuse would be no good... any way i have yet another question... we all know that there are amps out there that dont come with onboard fuses... (such as the american bass vfl amps)... but they are rated to do different outputs and different voltages... how are you supposed to determine how big the fuse should be in order to protedt the amp? i planned on getting one but i still have to do some more research to find out EXACTLY what it does. ok whats wrong with mtx for shizzle

bump for shizzle

thats what i was confused on... the alt to the first batt, but thanks for clearing that up... so once you have the two runs of 0guage done on the batts... it is still just one 0 guage wire directly to the amp right??? but if the amp can pull over 325 amps how is one 0 guage wire gonna work with that application?

OK... been doin some reading/research and ive come to a brick wall... Can someone explain to me how running multiple 0guage wires is supposed to work(pics would be helpful if available... ) i know that you do one 0 guage wire from the alt to the batt in the front... but if you want to do two runs or more i have no idea as to how the hell that works... the setup is gonna have 3 batts in total... one under the hood and two in the back if that helps i know the max amperage for 0 guage is around 325a but the amps that im considering can pull upwards of 400a-500a. someone please explain. for shizzle

it would hurt my wallet... j/k but i understand the logic yea i got a yellow top under the hood now(34/78) and the big three in 0 guage

this wont be for sitting still... i only bump on the freeway... on side streets i always turn the subs off and bump responsibly... never ever will i bump while sitting still unless its a maitenance issue

just looked on mechmans site and found this... D3100 [D3100] $349.00 Click to enlarge Features » The preferred battery of champions! Capable of delivering an astounding 3,200 amps of current Provides major output for starting power, audio, multimedia systems, and more Fits BCI group 31 applications utilized in many large trucks, busses and motor coaches Can easily power systems up to 4000 watts when used as the main battery Great supplemental battery for 5000+ watt systems 3 Year Warranty Specifications » Weight 77.16 pounds (35.00 kilograms) Length 13.03 inches Width 6.89 inches Height 8.43 inches Maximum Amps 3200 Ah 117 if thats true... could i just buy one and add it on to my yellow top and still be ok... or would two of those in addition to my yellow top be better...

thanks for the reply... but how long are these batts supposed to last before i have to let them charge? would i only have time for one song or would i be ok with a 30 minute ride at full tilt

ive been looking for a 4000 watt amp and i had narrowed it down to two choices... the rockford t4k or the mtx te4001bd. now if i had the money i would just go ahead and get the rock ford but the mtx is cheaper so im settling for that right now... i have a HO alt from iraggi (150idle/250max) and a yellow top for the setup that i have now and it does just fine. my voltage doesnt go below 13.5. HOWEVER..... i would like to go bigger. my next setup is gonna consist of two 15 inch sundown nightshades and the mtx 4001. now for the question.... i know i will need more batteries in order to be able to :hairtrick: . but i have no idea what i need to look for... i couldnt even find the fuse rating for the amp... but ive been seeing that brands like kinetic, power master etc are the brands of choice... i went to kinetics website and used there calculator and it said that i should us two of there 2400 cells. is this right and are there any alternatives... also another question is how long are these batts supposed to last before i have to let them charge? would i only have time for one song or would i be ok with a 30 minute ride at full tilt... like i said LOTS OF GUIDANCE AND HELP IS NEEDED FOR SHIZZLE

FOR SHIZZLE... You guys know that the system is gonna be loud. why wouldnt you just save everyone the headache and just go to an empty lot or even a park... if he's complained before he' gonna do it again. he wasnt right for threatening you guys or your cars but you still disturbed him. im going through the same thing right now with one of my neighbors who also likes to bump really hard... i havent said anything to him about it but thats because i understand how hard it is to find a spot to tune your equipment and whatnot. GIVE RESPECT=GET RESPECT. PRETTY SOON THE LAW WILL BE AGAINST YOU AND YOU WONT HAVE A CAR TO BEAT IN just some thing to think about

WHOOP THAT TRICK... WHOOP THAT TRICK!!! KICKIN ASS AND TAKING NAMES FOR SHIZZLE

be afraid... be very very afraid... naw your good.. they cant convict you of something you didnt do.

x2... they are great. even if its a holiday they ship you stuff out very fast... FTMFGDW

ommfg, finally someone who actually listened to the makers of the battery thank you

well the point of this thread is to try prove which battery is better for deep cycling, red top or yellow top...im not saying that either battery will like being deep cycled repeatedly, but to say that a "regular ol' leaky battery will perform the same or better than an optima seems funny to me. but any way this is strictly for red tops and yellow tops... i have no doubt in my mind that there are better batteries than optima out there, but this thread is not the place for them... bottom line: when it comes to deep cycling, would you use a red top or a yellow top

WWWOOOOOOTTTT!!! this is the first time Steve has posted in one of my topics im so proud (and no im not sack riding )

that thread was interesting... but didnt solve anything... as far as deep cycling goes, i have no doubt that the red top has the ability, but how many times can it take that type of punishment...even OPTIMA themselves say not to use a redtop for deep cycling purposes...although the red top and yellow top have the same spiral cell construction, the plates in the yellow top would have to be thicker than the red tops in order to withstand MORE deep cycles... i think alot of people get confused because of the fact that they are built the same way... but a question that and obswervation that would solve this question is: OBSERVATION: most people who use opimas have a red top under the hood and yellow tops in the trunk... right? QUESTION: if they are so sure that red tops are equal to yellow tops, why dont you ever see red tops in the trunk? I'LL TELL YOU WHY, CUZ PEOPLE KNOW THAT THEY ARE NOT MEANT FOR DEEP CYCLING LIKE THE YELLOW TOPS...(thats just my own answer but this question is open to anyone who can dispute it)

my thoughts exactly although redtops use the same plate formation as yellow tops... they have a lower internal resistance in order to dish out more power at one time instead of over a long period of time...ie why this battery is used mainly for starting... i tried to explain this same difference to someone on another forum but they insisted that yellow and red tops were equal

optima advertises there yellow tops as deep cycling batts, the red tops as starting batt(which is pretty much a standard batt that lasts longer), and the blue top for rv use... but if you can substitute on color for the other then whats the point of buying one over the other from a consumers standpoint

so basically there is no difference between the red top, yellow top, and blue top?

so if you can use the red top in deep cycling... why is it that optima says not to do that