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chicago1

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About chicago1

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  1. Thanks gents. I'll see if the seller will take it back. I got a new battery under warranty and same thing is happening. I will check voltage with the car off this week.
  2. this is kinda long and confusing.Here is my concern so I did the big 3 or 4 really because I have a fuse box in the trunk too. I am using all 0/2 OFC and the amp and alternator is fused. I bought a 350amp alternator BUT the battery volts will drop down to 10.1 and my lights flicker so at the moment I stopped turning up the bass/volume because I do not want to damage anything. It was doing that BEFORE I installed everything and I know I have a drain somewhere because the car's battery will die overnight it's been like that for awhile like I said BEFORE I installed anything. I had them try to c
  3. Thanks I only have 1 battery so I will just add one by the battery in the rear that goes all the way to the junction that shares the one to the alternator
  4. So I am doing the big 3 and I have a Cadillac DTS and the battery is in the rear. The alternator wire goes to the fuse box in front on a post. The battery wire goes from the rear to the front on that same post. The alternator wire is a short run like maybe a foot or less to the positive post in front and obviously the rear is about a 10 to 12 foot run to that same post. So do I put the inline fuse in the rear coming off the battery to the post in front or coming off the alternator to a fuse then go into the post in front? I am hoping to put it on the battery side because room is limited on the
  5. Wow that is insane . I'm sure its going to big a huge difference from my JL 12w6v2 and 500.1 that I have had for 12 years.
  6. thanks i am going to buy it. I just want to say thanks everyone for the suggestions. im still all new to this and way over my head.
  7. Think I am going to get that Orion he said he would let it go for 225 shipped. Its certified at 2953 @ 1 ohm at 12.9 Volts. What do you guys think?
  8. damn that thing is way underrated for 599. but out of stock I guess https://www.1800woofers.com/synergy-audio-wfo-35-1d-3-500w-rms-mono-block/
  9. Yeah that guy with the Orion hit me up I am thinking about it. SO many choices I just want to do it right but also not overpay or get something I will regret later. I am trying to read all I can but the more I read the more confusing and unsure what to get. I will check into the ones that where mentioned earlier. Someone had told me this but if that's the case then I need more power. "When looking for amps to match with subs I go off the 4 ohm ratings because that more realistic of the power your subs are actually going to be getting."
  10. Yeah the Skar 3500 is over 5 so I think I rather get something else or a better name brand. Nothing wronf with that Skar but I would go with something better in that price range Wow that is a awesome amp. Thank you yeah they have also proven to start fires. Not a big fan
  11. I just got my hippo xlr 12 which is a 3k rms it's a 66 pound monster. I have a 350 amp alternator coming and will be doing the big 3 with 0 gauge. I can't decide on a amp. I was looking at a skar 2k and a wolfram 2400 and they push about 2.5k rms. My understand and please correct me if I am wrong is I rather have a bigger amp that pushed way more and turn it down then having to push a amp that makes 2.5k at full throttle all the time, I looked at the Taramps but 4 gauge inputs wire on a 3k rms amp just does not sit right with me. I guess this is the one time that I will actually spend some mon
  12. Ok so that means you have no opinion on the subs? Again I am going with what the manufacture said and that was for only 1 sub the amp will push the other 2 choices just fine according to the manufacture and those amps push close to 3k from the dyno vids. So again school me on what I should or shouldn't get. Lets not worry about anything else but the sub we are getting off subject just forget I mentioned the amps I will reevaluate depending on if I go with the Hippo. So can we please stay on topic and I will build the rest of the system around it. Thank you gents
  13. Sorry I just re titled it . My understanding is both those amps put out over 2k plus. But I am not worried about the amp if I need to go bigger that's fine so let's go with I need a sub first and then I will pick out a suitable amp . SO out of those 3 subs which would do the best for my needs? Are they good subs do they hit hard? Di g Deep? Overrated? Would the hippo being 3k rms make a huge difference between the other 2? One is 250 for 1750 rms the other is 100 more for the same amount of rms and also for that extra 100 I can get another 1,300 MORE RMS power. Again this is all new to me s
  14. Hello I am brand new here and wanted to post a question I been itching to make a purchase and I always buy before I research so I figured for once let me do some research especially in this area. I have talked to all 3 of the manufactures above and none of them sold me on anything they just said our sub woofers are the best but never told me in detail why I should go with them which was pretty unusual. I have a 2007 Cadillac DTS and my current setup is a JL Audio 12w6v2 and a JL Audio 500.1 yeah old stuff I know. I have had this set up for about 15 years in about 6-8 different cars and had t
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