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chicago1

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  1. Thanks gents. I'll see if the seller will take it back. I got a new battery under warranty and same thing is happening. I will check voltage with the car off this week.
  2. this is kinda long and confusing.Here is my concern so I did the big 3 or 4 really because I have a fuse box in the trunk too. I am using all 0/2 OFC and the amp and alternator is fused. I bought a 350amp alternator BUT the battery volts will drop down to 10.1 and my lights flicker so at the moment I stopped turning up the bass/volume because I do not want to damage anything. It was doing that BEFORE I installed everything and I know I have a drain somewhere because the car's battery will die overnight it's been like that for awhile like I said BEFORE I installed anything. I had them try to charge it at autozone and they said they couldn't get it above 9 volts and it wasn't a good battery but I am able to jump it and it will hold a charge while driving. I guess I am wondering shouldn't the alternator ensure the battery stays above 14volts. I mean while driving it fluctuates from 10.1 to 14.8. So is the alternator not putting out what it's supposed to or the alternator only puts out amperage and the battery is doing all the work as far as voltage ? I assume no matter how good the alternator is even if Jesus made it himself the battery has a issue it's only going to put out what it can? Does the car's pcm say hey I don't care if your alternator is 900 amps I am going to regulate it to the factory 150? Yes I know I should fix the battery drain issue that is on the list. Or should I be running another battery but then how would I know the alternator is actually putting out 350 amps? I guess I should get an amp clamp to test it?Thank you Amp is a Orion 2500 Sub is a Hippo XLR wired to 1ohm stock 2007 Cadillac DTS 840 amp battery big 4" alternator is this one https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-HIGH-OUTPUT-350-AMP-ALTERNATOR-FOR-CADILLAC-DTS-BUICK-LUCERNE-4-6L-2006-10/253199538740?fits=Engine+-+Liter_Display%3A4.6L&hash=item3af3de5a34:g:y-kAAOSwM-tcnU3m:sc:USPSPriority!87124!US!-1 I asked the seller about the voltage and he told me this "Hi,Depend to your RPM and load voltage change from 12V to 14V ,you get maximum output watt on 12V and no load you will get around 14V ,Thanks" just I let you know I am the first person in USA and world start upgrade hair pin style alternator and everybody start to copy from me
  3. Thanks I only have 1 battery so I will just add one by the battery in the rear that goes all the way to the junction that shares the one to the alternator
  4. So I am doing the big 3 and I have a Cadillac DTS and the battery is in the rear. The alternator wire goes to the fuse box in front on a post. The battery wire goes from the rear to the front on that same post. The alternator wire is a short run like maybe a foot or less to the positive post in front and obviously the rear is about a 10 to 12 foot run to that same post. So do I put the inline fuse in the rear coming off the battery to the post in front or coming off the alternator to a fuse then go into the post in front? I am hoping to put it on the battery side because room is limited on the alternator wire. You can't even see it it's a short run under other wires in front. If anyone knows a DTS it's a 20 pound bag of crap stuffed in a 10 pound bag.
  5. Wow that is insane . I'm sure its going to big a huge difference from my JL 12w6v2 and 500.1 that I have had for 12 years.
  6. thanks i am going to buy it. I just want to say thanks everyone for the suggestions. im still all new to this and way over my head.
  7. Think I am going to get that Orion he said he would let it go for 225 shipped. Its certified at 2953 @ 1 ohm at 12.9 Volts. What do you guys think?
  8. damn that thing is way underrated for 599. but out of stock I guess https://www.1800woofers.com/synergy-audio-wfo-35-1d-3-500w-rms-mono-block/
  9. Yeah that guy with the Orion hit me up I am thinking about it. SO many choices I just want to do it right but also not overpay or get something I will regret later. I am trying to read all I can but the more I read the more confusing and unsure what to get. I will check into the ones that where mentioned earlier. Someone had told me this but if that's the case then I need more power. "When looking for amps to match with subs I go off the 4 ohm ratings because that more realistic of the power your subs are actually going to be getting."
  10. Yeah the Skar 3500 is over 5 so I think I rather get something else or a better name brand. Nothing wronf with that Skar but I would go with something better in that price range Wow that is a awesome amp. Thank you yeah they have also proven to start fires. Not a big fan
  11. I just got my hippo xlr 12 which is a 3k rms it's a 66 pound monster. I have a 350 amp alternator coming and will be doing the big 3 with 0 gauge. I can't decide on a amp. I was looking at a skar 2k and a wolfram 2400 and they push about 2.5k rms. My understand and please correct me if I am wrong is I rather have a bigger amp that pushed way more and turn it down then having to push a amp that makes 2.5k at full throttle all the time, I looked at the Taramps but 4 gauge inputs wire on a 3k rms amp just does not sit right with me. I guess this is the one time that I will actually spend some money without buying the cheapest thing around. I hope my budget of 500 is doable. Thanks for your time
  12. Ok so that means you have no opinion on the subs? Again I am going with what the manufacture said and that was for only 1 sub the amp will push the other 2 choices just fine according to the manufacture and those amps push close to 3k from the dyno vids. So again school me on what I should or shouldn't get. Lets not worry about anything else but the sub we are getting off subject just forget I mentioned the amps I will reevaluate depending on if I go with the Hippo. So can we please stay on topic and I will build the rest of the system around it. Thank you gents
  13. Sorry I just re titled it . My understanding is both those amps put out over 2k plus. But I am not worried about the amp if I need to go bigger that's fine so let's go with I need a sub first and then I will pick out a suitable amp . SO out of those 3 subs which would do the best for my needs? Are they good subs do they hit hard? Di g Deep? Overrated? Would the hippo being 3k rms make a huge difference between the other 2? One is 250 for 1750 rms the other is 100 more for the same amount of rms and also for that extra 100 I can get another 1,300 MORE RMS power. Again this is all new to me so help me decide. Again lets say I have all the electrical and the amp to power it all which of the 3 should I get? Again for the price and 3k I want the hippo. I also talked to Massive they said both amps above would be a great match but again no details on why I should go with their subs. and again take the amp out of the equation for now
  14. Hello I am brand new here and wanted to post a question I been itching to make a purchase and I always buy before I research so I figured for once let me do some research especially in this area. I have talked to all 3 of the manufactures above and none of them sold me on anything they just said our sub woofers are the best but never told me in detail why I should go with them which was pretty unusual. I have a 2007 Cadillac DTS and my current setup is a JL Audio 12w6v2 and a JL Audio 500.1 yeah old stuff I know. I have had this set up for about 15 years in about 6-8 different cars and had to re cone once. I have had nothing else as far as subs and amp. I wanted to give this setup to my son and wanted to get myself something new I loved the setup but again I'm passing it down and now looking to something more budget friendly. I looked at these 3 due to reviews and power rating. I am not looking to send more than $400 on a sub. I am leaning towards the Hippo due to it being 3krms nd it comes with the sound deadener which my trunk rattles bad and I hate that ghetto sound and also the other two are 1700. As far as an amp goes I am going with a skar 2k or the Wolfram 2400 but still researching. Can you guy give me some feedback on these 3 and for now let's not worry about electrical or box lets just talk strictly sub. I am only going with one 12" I want chest thumping bass that digs deep and that people a few blocks away will be like wtf if I wanted it to,. MY JL does turn heads still. I listen to a lot of rap R&B. and also listen to rock/metal. I can go from System of a Down to A Tribe Called Quest back to Lincoln Park then to some Salsa or Meringue My JL does great and people are surprised by it so I am really excited to see what triple the power can do once I get the electrical up to par but that's for another thread. Thank you for your feedback Also I have had 0 experience with the 3 below $379-https://ficaraudio.com/product/q-ferrite-series/ $269-https://gpcaraudio.com/deaf-bonce-apocalypse-db-sa2712-12-subwoofer/ $399(it was 359 now 399 with free sound deadener) https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_136923_Massive-Audio-HIPPO-XL-122R-HIPPOXL122R.html
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