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Stoneylowe

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About Stoneylowe

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  1. Why the FUCK does sky high sell 2/0 wire as 1/0, 4/0 as 2/0 and etc? Nobody who knows anything about wiring thinks they’re getting some screaming deal when the 2/0 they ordered turns out to be 4/0, if they’re anything like me they’re just pissed off that none of the fuse holders, ring terminals or anything else they ordered fits their wire because they received something twice the size of what they wanted. Not to mention the stuff is ungoldly stiff. This company has single handedly made my entire install a nightmare because i planned to use 2/0 but now i have 20 feet of 4/0 that i can’t fucking return because i didn’t order an entire reel, and a bunch of fuse holders and ring terminals that won’t fit 4/0 wire. They could at least say anywhere on the website that this is the case. It’s like a reverse bait and switch except I’m still just as annoyed. I will be using certified basshead only from now on. /endrant
  2. I’ve been thinking about something and wanted to ask y’all’s opinion, do you guys think there’s room for another bass head focused internet car audio store? I recently came into some money, nothing huge, probably less than some of yalls monthly salary but to me it’s a lot (no it’s not my stimulus check ), and I was thinking about following my dream of starting a stereo shop. In my area I don’t think there are enough car audio heads to support another profitable brick and mortar store which is why I plan to focus online and maybe eventually have funding for a small physical shop. For right now I only really have funds to get a storefront started and buy a bunch of my own branded wire from alibaba for making amp kits and whatnot, plus I have access to a machine shop and a couple general manufacturing shops to make fuse holders and random stuff like that, other than that I’d rely on a drop shipping company for most of my stock at the start. But yeah, I just wanted to ask your guys opinions, do you think somebody else could make money starting a shop in the vein of D4S/SHCA/WCCA and those types of bass head focused shops or is the industry pretty much full? Do you already have a shop you go to above all else that you wouldn’t be willing to switch away from even if all things were roughly equal or better? I’m doing other industry research as well but figured this would be a great place to ask the general audio public, hopin I get some kinda response! Thanks guys. TL\DR version: do you think somebody could make money starting an online stereo shop today or is the industry already saturated in your opinion?
  3. Yeah i don’t touch bass boost, i have 3500rms in a minitruck it’s already plenty boosted for my taste , I’ve always heard people talk about them as being related to gain so i just wanted to make sure i wasn’t gonna blow my sub to fuckin Jupiter. Thanks for the answers guys! Knowing that I’ll probably snag one, love my system but it’s a bit overbearing when i wanna play something chill.
  4. Hey guys, I’m trying to understand how bass knobs work to decide if i wanna use one. Do they entirely bypass the amplifiers gain so that you control the gain 100% by the knob? Or do they work in concert with the gain setting, so that the highest setting on the bass knob would be whatever your gain is already set to? I’ve searched but i can’t get a concrete answer. Id love to have some song by song adjustability because i listen to so much different music, but not if I’m gonna end up cranking my gain way outta wack every time i touch the thing. Running way too much power to accidentally do that lol. Thanks y’all
  5. Awesome! I appreciate all the replies. This confirms what i was thinkin about doing, thanks guys!
  6. Hey guys, I’m running around 4000rms total power to my subs and speakers, and despite having a 240amp alternator and brand new 800cca AGM battery I’m getting enough voltage drop to occasionally throw my sub amp into protect. Anybody have any idea why this might be? My research leads me to believe i shouldn’t need more than that, power wise, for the wattage I’m running. The only possible thing i could think of is because i was kinda lazy doing my grounds on my Big 3, i grounded it at the alternator bracket and the stock body ground point, which isn’t the greatest, just attaches to the core support. Could less than perfect grounds cause this type of voltage drop or do you guys have any other ideas about what could cause this? Wanted to consult the forums before i started redoing stuff. Thank you guys
  7. So spray painting the area once the lug is attached won’t effect connectivity? That’s the other thing i was curious about, I’ve ground paint off all my ground points and was wondering what to cover them with
  8. Great, thanks to you both! Confirmed what i was thinking but i like to hear it from people who know more than me
  9. Hey guys, so it seems like everyone disagrees on whether you have to run a dedicated negative wire from your front to rear battery, or you can just get away with grounding the second battery at the frame/body. If i have my front battery grounded directly to the frame can i get away with grounding my rear battery there as well to run them in parallel? It’s an older truck so it’s a legit body on frame. What do y’all think? I’ve already put so much into this damn project and the thought of shelling out for another 16ft of 2/0 makes me wanna swallow a shotgun shell.
  10. I just got my Dayton DSP set up and when i don’t have anything playing through it via Bluetooth it makes a horrendous amount of noise. As soon as i start playing a track over Bluetooth it goes away completely, i can even pause the song and it’ll be silent but as soon as it’s not getting a Bluetooth signal it starts making a really loud static noise. It’s not tied to the volume of the head unit and goes away when everything is off, obviously. Any of you guys know where to start trouble shooting this? I was stoked my setup was done and now i got smacked with this. Thanks y’all
  11. I know, I’m just curious whether they’re series or parallel
  12. Anybody know if the dual speaker terminals that come on some mono amps are connected in parallel? My DD M3a has 2 pairs and it’d be easier to just wire each of my direct leads to a terminal rather than dealing with soldering to wire it in parallel. Thanks y’all
  13. I’m installing a JS alternator and they sent me a pigtail that i have to adapt to my truck (Ford 4.0 OHV). Problem is they only tell me what to do with 2 of the 4 wires on it, i have no idea what to do with the P and F wires, and none of the wires on my factory harness are labeled as either of those. So far i just have the one that attaches to the positive post on the alt and the one that runs to ignition. That leaves one wire from my trucks harness unused, as well as the P and F wires on the JS pigtail, and I’m worried it runs something important. Hopefully that makes sense, sorry I’m not super articulate and can post pics if it helps. Here’s the factory alternator wiring, the yellow and white wire running towards the fuse box is the one that would be left unconnected the way it stands now.
  14. Hey guys, back with another question about my build. In my research for installing my Dayton DSP I’ve seen conflicting opinions on RCAs, some people saying you need to run a 4 channel RCA to the DSP and others saying you can get away with just L&R and the DSP will parse our individual channels and their frequencies. Does anybody have insight into which of these is correct? If i need to run an RCA for each individual channel what would i do for my sub in this particular instance? Just forego tuning and let the head unit run it? The HU is an Alpine CDE143BT if that makes a difference. I’m also installing an Epicenter In-Dash, anybody know where that would get wired in all this mess? Any insight would be great. Sorry, I’m not the best at organizing my thoughts. Hopefully somebody gets what I’m on about. Thank you guys!
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