Jump to content

Bluetegjoe

Members
  • Posts

    27
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Bluetegjoe

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Bluetegjoe's Achievements

Rookie

Rookie (2/14)

  • Reacting Well Rare
  • Dedicated Rare
  • First Post Rare
  • Collaborator Rare
  • Week One Done Rare

Recent Badges

9

Reputation

  1. Agreed an the sq limitations of class D. I tried a newer class D 4 channel for ease of installation but I couldn’t stand the distortion and pulled it out after one week and did a trunk install of a proper class a/b. I installed the class D in my son’s Oddysey and he’s perfectly happy with it. The average consumer can’t hear the difference but if you care about sq, class D doen’t cut it.
  2. When I was building my most recent system, I looked up Focal 4 channel amplifiers because they are talked up so much on numerous forums. Even at the $800 mark, the Focal specs paled in comparison to its comparable competitor from JL Audio. I think the current Focal amps are probably chinese since the only equipment they clearly claim to be made in France is their “high end” home audio equipment. The fuse ratings for the stated rms wattage are also much lower than other reputable amps of the same rms wattage rating. They are either doing something with the circuitry that improves on class ab efficiency at the expense of the signal to noise ratio (not likely), or they are simply inflating the rms watt ratings like cheaper brands do.
  3. $249 for spade terminals and a 76db signal to noise ratio? Do you have experience with this amp? For similar money and way more headroom I suggest this: https://www.skaraudio.com/products/skv2-100-4ab-four-channel-car-amplifier
  4. If the spec in question is from a currently reputable brand , it is a positive indicator but there are other factors that will affect the amp’s true sq. Specs from faded or entry level brands should be taken with a grain salt.
  5. A thing to keep in mind when building a system for newer Hondas is the ELD system. The ELD (Electric Load Detector) is integral to the electrical system and the ecm and controls the output of the alternator. The ecm , through the ELD, keeps the alternator at a lower energy state to lighten the load on the engine and theoretically save gas. The ecm response to a higher electrical load in the system has a delay which results in a momentary voltage drop before the alternator goes into high output mode. This results in headlight and interior/dash dimming that, depending on the total amp draw, many find unacceptable. Capacitors are not a solution and the ELD will cause dimming even with higher output alternators built for Honda applications. There are some workarounds that involve “custom” wiring for those really dedicated to higher power. The easiest solution for a smaller system is to limit the system to 1000 or under watts rms and get the highest capacity agm battery that will fit in the car. This will minimize the dimming without wiring modifications to the car.
  6. 100% in agreement with Dafaseles. The issue is the lower line voltage from the Pioneer deck. I am on my second system with the Audiocontrol Three.2. Very few units can approach the line voltage it produces plus it has a superior crossover than most other loc’s or head units.
  7. Hondas/Acuras with premium sound systems have unprocessed line level signals for the door speaker channels coming out of the h/u. The issue with tapping those is that they are balanced outputs and not every loc will work without producing noise. For a simple sub add on, tapping speaker leads and using a bass restoring loc is preferable to the likely issues with noise that come with using the h/u outputs.
  8. I’ve done multiple installs on Honda/Acura vehicles and they all do the bass roll off as you increase the volume. If your factory system has a subwoofer/s , that channel is crossed over at the amp to only put out the lowest frequency that sub/s can reproduce. You will definitely need a bass restoration loc like the Audiocontrol Lc2i. The output of whatever amp/sub you use will be unsatisfactory if you don’t.
  9. As joe pointed out, those two eq’s probably come from the same factory as many amps from different brands do. There are only three or four basic designs for eq’s being sold by different brands. The only true high quality in-dash eq left is the Audiocontrol Three.2. It’s more expensive but has a better crossover, cleaner sound, and a higher voltage output.
  10. Hifonics miss their advertised ratings by at least 20%. That is not Boss bad but bad enough to not trust them when matching them to your speakers. They are definitely budget amps I would stay away from.
  11. I run a Skar skv-100.4ab and it has worked great for me. It has plenty of power to drive your speakers and at $259.99 it’s within your budget. It is a bit large but the generous heat sink area keeps it cool. It’s on backorder at this moment but they’ve re stocked it when they’ve run out before.
×
×
  • Create New...