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About ohruma

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  1. I'm leaning really hard towards the V.2 but my only main draws are the looks and 1000rms rating which I know if Sundown says 1000rms its really more in the 1500rms, like you said even OG SA series subwoofers could take whats that... 200% their rating in power? The V.2 also just look beefier in general and of course on paper looks quite a bit better. But like Backwoods said you probably wouldn't notice the difference in terms of daily listening. It really seems more of a question of saving money with tried and true or forking over the extra for shiny and new. With Sundown luckily I can't technically lose out either way.
  2. SA V1 Rev.3 (Classic Pre V.2 Launch) SA Classic (V1 Rev.3 Post V.2 Launch) SA V.2 All in all irrelevant though the question still stands... are the new V.2 subs improvements worth the extra $90? I'm not worried about under-powering or anything there will be revisions to this system to push it harder over time. I wouldn't wanna reach the limits of the Classics and regret not forking over the extra $180 on the set of V.2s
  3. I've actually looked into that a lot to clear my own confusion being in the market for them currently... SA Series Rev.3 was the last revision of the V.1 which is now being sold as the SA Classic due to popular demand. The V.2 is still on its original first revision if you would even call it that considering nothing has been revised from launch earlier this year.SA Rev.3 and Classic are the same thing [750RMS] and the V.2 is the newer model [1000RMS] Source:
  4. I've been doing a lot of revisions to my system plans... I will be getting a SUV/Truck for a second vehicle and will be saving larger system plans for that. I've gone from a Skar RP.2000.1D to a Skar 1500.1D because its cheaper and actually in stock. I still want to go with SA Series Sundown Subs and was wondering... is the extra $90 [$180 for 2] worth it for the V.2 or the Rev.3? I've never used either. . Down the line the system might get more power and that's where I'm leaning towards the V.2 because they have the extra rated 250RMS over the V.3 which is still conservative. The marketing on the website makes the V.2 seem all the worth it but I wanted personal opinions. There isn't much on the internet as far as one vs the other.
  5. I’m probably gonna be running a 240a Mechman alternator. I don’t plan on going over 3k rms for a while. The XS XP3000 in the trunk will be 120ah and if I start going above 3k I’ll just parallel another to it back there. I’m not gonna replace my lead acid battery right away as that would be 900 in batteries alone in one go but I will probably end up throwing a XS D6500 under the hood for my cranking battery and I think that would give me a little more reserve too from a stock Interstate.
  6. should I isolate the second battery? I've read mixed opinions. I don't use my system without the car running.
  7. I've emailed all of those brands I believe. With the 240a Mechman would I need a second battery? Or would a second battery be good practice either way??
  8. I’ve been considering the Iraggi 320Amp Alternator since they emailed me back this morning and probably a second battery in the trunk if I feel it needs it but I’m pretty sure a 320a alt will handle the system no problem.
  9. Iraggi emailed me back this morning and quoted me a 320Amp Alt they claim will be Plug and Play for my car being as I had to spend vehicle specifics when requesting the quote. This would be more than sufficient to push either system setup we discussed without the actual need for a second battery correct? Then further upgrading wouldn’t require anything more than a battery or two for another couple thousand watts of amps whenever that time came?
  10. Would an XS XP3000 be a good second battery for in the trunk?
  11. Its a 2009. It has aftermarket speakers in the doors and deck when I bought it. They aren't on an amp though and they are pretty damn loud I feel it would take a lot of bass to drown them out. If I put a big battery in the trunk do I have to change my battery under the hood? I've never changed the battery as its never had an issue. I've also never ran a second battery I just used to wreak havoc on stock alts as young bassheads do. What would be a good battery to mount in the trunk with the amp I listed? I only know of the big names like XS and Optima etc. Would I get a 120ah like you said or what that be too much? Is too much a thing?
  12. good to know I've kinda been over complicating things for myself. your 100% right about that itch too thats whats got me in this mess planning what we're discussing now lol
  13. I'm not going for any CRAZY sound pressures or DB readings by any means. I love a good trunk trying to leave the hinges but ONLY when I adjust the knob to such. Daily driving i don't plan on getting myself pulled over which the cops here WILL do if they can feel it. I want a system that can do both at the twist of the knob. CVPIs went through a lot of electrical revisions in the mid 2000s. 2004 they started using a 190 or 200a Alt manufactured by Mitsubishi and it used some new Internal Voltage Regulator that I guess isn't on any civilian Ford model vehicles or at least not with the programming the PCM looks for. With this in mind.... what would I want to push these subs with and what would need to be done if anything differently to accommodate that power demand?
  14. I've heard Sundown aggressively under rates their subs and can handle 2X the RMS rating on them lol. I've actually emailed a handful of these brands your mentioning for alts I'm just restless and love as much information from as many places as I can. Feel free to correct any of this because I know very little about the technicalities behind it all but... If I got 2 of the D4 (4ohm DVC) and wired them in series to 1 ohm wouldn't that give me the 2k RMS @ 1 ohm the amp is rated for? Based off your replies I'm not accounting for something I'm completely unaware of.
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