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PaperNoFlavors

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  1. I've done it. I learned quickly to pause the music/test tones before I mess with speaker leads. Couldn't imagine getting shocked on a 8k.
  2. That engine is such a beauty. I also love the idea of the sun-glass holder. I'm going to steal this idea for a fan rocker switch. Cheers!
  3. Hi Guys, I am looking to add to my system and need help, I have a 08 expedition 5.4L V8 with 2 SKAR VXF 12's (1500w rms ea) (waiting to arrive) and a Skar RP-2000 I am planning in the near future to add a 2nd RP 2000 and gain match them since they cannot be strapped. (Pictures of build below) I am currently running a stock 140a alternator and a XS Power d3100 (120 AH) Battery. This battery is relocated to the rear... (Long story... Didnt allow hood to close with it in and couldnt really return) Mechman told me today they can make me a 240a alt. When I asked about a larger alt, they mentioned having to use a smaller pully due to the engine design not putting a lot of the belt on the pully. They said they have done testing with this alternator and this is the max size they can make while preventing belt slippage at higher RPM's. They mentioned I could add an extra pulley and it will allow more belt to be on the alternator which would work, however I cannot find such a thing and do not know anyone that can machine this for me. @Dafaseles did the math for me on my amperage requirement. Basically 4000w + mids @ 70% efficiency @ 13v would require about 439 amps total. I am really on a crunch for space, here and the HOA does not seem sufficient enough with trying to be space saving.. 3 questions here: (keeping in mind the statement below) 1.Does anyone have any suggestions in mind for this build? 2. Would the 240a and the xs power d3100 be sufficient enough? 3. Would you recommend a external voltage regulator? (I cant seem to find them for the ford 3 pin alts) I know I have a large vehicle but space is big for me due to traveling. I want to get the absolute max out of this with the space I have. This is why I want to go with another rp 2000 since my 4 channel and Mono all have matching casings to stack. I believe this build looks very clean other than my terrible carpeting job (first time). I could mount the amps onto the enclosure but as we know... Thats a cardinal sin. Thanks for all your help. See attached
  4. Heres the info for displacement. I used the specs they gave on https://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Calculator/SpeakerDriverDisplacement/ Speaker Displacement Effective Cone Diameter = 18 inMounting Depth = 10.1 inOne-way, Linear Excursion (Xmax) = 0.9 inMagnet Diameter = 7.35 inMagnet Height = 3.5 inFront Baffle Thickness = 0.75 inFlush Mount = NoDimensions Driver Displacement = 0.24 ft3
  5. Here's a truck build for the same subwoofers. Their customer started off wanting sealed but then went ported. They had one large box with each sub having its own chamber (Looks like .25 cuft)
  6. Your amp is fine, I am just having a hard time seeing what you are going for with the tweeters in the rear door. It makes it extremely hard to stage the sound with this setup. The 4 doors wired on channel 1 and 2 is fine. Highpass filter set at 100hz est. As far as the tweeters, get a "Bass blocker" to put inline with your positive wire to the tweeters (THIS IS A MUST). This will prevent them from blowing immediately when you play them.(Most tweets play best at 4k-20khz) Then you will need to have your crossover set on the amp at a High Pass Filter of 4k for the tweeters. You would want to consider a DSP as this way is running your speakers "active" a DSP will help you with sound staging and to not have your door frequencies overlap with the same that your tweets are playing. Like I said, those tweeters are going to be loud as shit. Consider the doors being on channel 1 and 2 wired how you said and try hooking up just the front tweeters and see how you like it. I have a expedition and I completely did a rear speaker delete. its still loud as hell in the rear, and plus I do not have rear passengers a lot. If your not familiar, google "active crossover for car audio" and search this forum/google for others opinions on "rear fill"
  7. Oh and just to sum it up — I think this is the best route as I ran the TX65C speaker with upgraded tweeters and the doors sounded very good You keep your HU for networking mode to set xovers Keep your component woofers (ran active on channel 1-2) Upgrade your tweets (ran active on channel 3-4) Delete your rear fill speakers Consider the rp1000.4 4 channel (as it is 150w rms @4ohm) {The tx65 are 100w rms and the FSX65 are 150w rms @ 4ohms} Plus you can always get the FSX65 if your not happy with the tx65 woofer ran active Passive crossovers can eat as much as 40% of the power meaning you will not always get a number close to the channel RMS I do not know what you have for bass. Also, the mounting depth of the FSX65 is 2.67 inches (I think) I had to do some major modifications to the doors to get these to fit. However the tx65 woofer did sound very good.
  8. Absolutely, I do not know it all and probably made some mistakes in my answer to you... Getting a dd-1 will eliminate your frustrations with the doors sounding decent. its hard to set the gains on a 4 channel by ear... IMO. Do you have anything for bass?
  9. Thank you for the reply. This certainly makes sense. "Remember integrals"? — Yeah they were the worst! Probably would have been a lot better if I saw their role in audio.
  10. Let me post some other reviews for you: 1. For some reason I can’t keep it from Going into clip and protect.. works fine but can’t turn it up it clips and goes to protect.. running 3 ddx 15 words to 1.33 ohms o read that this ohm load was ok on this amp 2. Haven't tried it but there was corrosion in the power and negative inputs 3. Sounded great for about 15 minutes before it completely blew up. Smoked out the whole car. And that was the amp turned 1/4 the way up. And yes I had it installed correctly. And yes I had the proper 2 gauge OFC wires. And the big 3 upgrade with excess power battery. Got Rockford amp after replacing this one and have had it now for 3 months and works perfectly. So that goes to show you. I would not recommend. 4. It's a good amp and delivers the wattage as promised. But the flimsy plastic fans ate themselves against the grate One person found this helpful 5. It’ll push 3000 watts but instantly shuts off and resets, can’t push my skar 12 like my 2000 watt skar amp could, amp feels cheap and dinky, adjustment knobs are finicky, I want a refund, I’m going back to my skar products 6. I was super excited to try this amp out after seeing a YouTube dyno test. But sadly I was only able to get half a day out if this amp. It hit hard my CompQ 12s sounded great. I went in the store came back out and no sound. I swapped back to my old amp to see if the problem followed the amp and it did. The only new item to my system was this amp. High hopes but let down. LESSON: It happens. Maybe I just got 2 faulty amps from SHCA. All I know is its not the product for me. Please quit following me. From your other post it seems you do this often, bashing others and saying your stating facts not opinions.... Here's a FACT for you: YOU HAVE NO RESPECT
  11. You are incorrect, As my original setup was with the 800.4 and the smart 3. I just swapped my entire setup the other day. Its too bad I never got a good feel of the DD-1 because the taramp's would show protect with low volume.
  12. I certainly have, However it is not clear where the gain is set prior to a dyno. I understand the dynos run to clipping. I think this is a very fair question. What I think is unfair, is that you are following me. If you are so much about helping people, how about acknowledge that this is a very very fair question.
  13. Right on! Thanks for the info... Its funny because the 08 Expedition is very large and I have a lot of room. However I have managed to design an enclosure that takes up the entire length of the single 3rd row seat down. (The 3rd row has 2 electric seats that come up as one and then a single) I also have a xs power d3100 in the rear. I am able to put up the 2 seats without a problem hitting the setup. (I will post a pic soon for you) its crazy because everything fits within an inch of the seats being up (Only have like 45" L and 16" wide to play with... Who knows, one day I may just say screw the 3rd row seat... and I would if I did not have rear captain chairs for a second row.
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