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About GoldRiver

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  1. My first box. JL spec slot port. I put a couple beefy wooden dowels in the port for bracing and one corner brace and never accounted for the volume loss. This probably reduced port vol enough to increase the velocity. Its being driven by a DC 2.0k dialed back. Here is a photo of the dowels. I am designing a new enclosure. I will post it soon and hopefully you all can give feedback. It will be around 4 cubic feet, tuned to 20hz, slot port.
  2. Current isnt just flowing through the wire. The amp draws current causing it to flow. Its the amp that determines how much current is demanded. A larger gauge wire just allows more current to flow safely. You size the fuse to the amp, not the wire size.
  3. Wolfram. Use code GEM for more savings. https://www.wolframaudio.com/products/w-3000-1 DC Audio 2.0k. Not quite 2500, but these overperform. I ordered one this week. U.S. build quality. https://www.dcsoundlab.com/2k Taramps 3k. Many budget SPL builds use this amp. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FGULS78/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bvVOFb2TNECHM
  4. Excited to see your build! Supercab here with a single ported 12. Best of luck!
  5. The red top is a 50 amp hour battery. Lets assume your 4 channel amp is using 35 amps at your louder listening volume and your sub amp is pulling 125 amps. So thats 155 amps. Then assume the car is using 30 amps for accessories and such. You would be fine with a 220 amp alternator. The red top would give you a bit of reserve capacity at idle, or if you are listening with the vehicle off briefly (10 minutes or so). Keep in mind that the alternator wont put out 220 amps at idle so I wouldnt sit in the parking lot idling while at full tilt for more than 30 minutes.
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