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whoopdeedoo

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  1. I sold it when I bought this one. Have to try and track down a half-bridge to test. Didn't have an issue with my other amps but these full bridges are causing problems. I know other people running the Smart 3 with a universal knob not having problems. My car doesn't like em apparently.
  2. Been trying to figure this out for 3 weeks or so. I switched out my CAB amp for a Smart 5 and I can't have a bass knob connected with interference. I changed nothing about the system other than the amp. I've tried my main knob and also my backup, both of which worked fine with my last 2 amps. Whenever I have a knob connected in line with the RCAs I get constant noise through the subs. Even with no music playing or if I turn off my sub option at the headunit. I've checked all my grounds, tried multiple different RCAs, I set my gain with my DD1 and checked it with my Oscope. I tried wrapping wire around the RCAs at the headunit and on the bass knob. I even borrowed a friends Smart 5 Bass version and it did it also. The only thing that's worked was a ground loop isolator but with that connected my DD1 was sensing distortion constantly regardless of gain and other settings so I disconnected the isolator. For the life of me I can't figure this out. I hate using the headunits sub option to adjust bass. Any ideas?
  3. Grounds are all solid. 2 1/0 frame grounds on clean metal. Only change is the amp, everything else identical. I'll try grounding the knob and see if that does anything. The way it sounds its almost like when I have a knob hooked up its picking up interference. The RCAs are good quality and shielded though.
  4. Anyone know why I'd be getting noise thru the subs when I hook up my universal rca style bass knob? Tried 2 different knobs and different rcas to no avail, didn't do this with my last amp.
  5. The Taramps manual wasn't clear if I recall correctly but I can take a second look. I'm currently using option 1 with a high quality y splitter. My 80prs allows me to select MONO or STEREO for the sub output, so I selected mono.
  6. I have a Pioneer 80prs with the standard red/white RCA sub output. I've seen 3 different methods for hooking up the Smart 5. All 3 recommend by some and criticized by others. Which method do you use/recommend? 1. Use a Y splitter to combine the L/R RCAs into one and plug that into the IN. 2. Just use one side of the RCA to connect to the IN. Taping up the other and letting it hang. 3. Use both L/R into the IN and OUT. Treating it like a standard connection and basically ignoring the word OUT. I emailed Taramps about this and they said it would work normally this way but the majority of people I talk to seem to be convinced this is a terrible idea and will damage the amp. The perfectionist in me really wants to do this in the most optimal way but I can't find a solid answer as to which way that is.
  7. Your thoughts on why its louder seem logical to me. Its possible the clip light isn't functioning. You can feel the subs and amp after playing for a while to see if they are getting warm. Clipping will cause heat and heat will cause things to blow or burn up. The only way to know for sure if the clip light is working or not is to use an oscope or dd1.
  8. Yeah I saw that. The CAB-45 dyno was 3k at 2 ohm. So if I'm rising to 2 ohm I would literally double my power with the Smart 5.
  9. Honestly with them costing about the same my thought was I could increase about 2k rms without paying a dime. Assuming I rise to 2 ohm I could potentially see 5000 vs 2750. I guess part of this is just me wanting more but having my car audio budget tapped out.
  10. No brand-to-brand threads thanks! https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/forum-rules/
  11. Tried to find my specific issue via forums and google but no dice. If I test my headunit (Pioneer 80PRS) for distortion via rcas everything works as expected and I end up with vol 57/60 showing clean. I tried testing via the alternate method, through the amp and I can't get a signal or 40hz light but the distortion light does come on at vol 53/60. I've reread the manual and triple checked all settings, xover, filter etc. I cannot get a signal or 40hz light with the gain of the amp all the way down as the manual suggests. As soon as I turn the gain up at all the signal and 40hz turn on. Should I just go with the headunit only method and ignore the results I'm getting through the amp? Any idea why it doesn't work through the amp as the manual recommends? Thanks
  12. Thanks I've been dealing with issues surrounding that seat for several weeks, was getting pretty frustrating. Blew me away it was as simple as unplugging the knob from the amp.
  13. Getting thump from subs when rear passenger seat is got on or off and today noticed it will do it when I touch it with a blanket lol. No wires in or under this seat unless they are factory and hidden. Touching it with my hand wont do it. Posted a video of it happening. Video Never mind, it turned out to be the remote gain knob. Once I unplugged it the problem disappeared.
  14. Was away for a while sorry for the late response. (2) 15" PSI 1 ohm dvc 1000rms subs running in series-parallel at 1 ohm on a CAB-22 2200 rms. Subs up port back. Port runs along the right side of the box. 1/0 gauge power/ground. Box dimensions: External 48" Wide by 28" Deep by 17" High. MDF is .75" and its double baffle so Internal should be 46.5 x 26.5 x 14.75. Port Internal: 9.75" Wide x 14.75" High x 28.25" long. If my math is right its 10.5 cu.ft. inside the enclosure minus 2.35 cu.ft. of port and .28 cu. ft. for the drivers, the subs are seeing 7.87 cu.ft. The box has 45'd corners but idk how much those are displacing, they aren't very big.
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