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whoopdeedoo

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  1. Was away for a while sorry for the late response. (2) 15" PSI 1 ohm dvc 1000rms subs running in series-parallel at 1 ohm on a CAB-22 2200 rms. Subs up port back. Port runs along the right side of the box. 1/0 gauge power/ground. Box dimensions: External 48" Wide by 28" Deep by 17" High. MDF is .75" and its double baffle so Internal should be 46.5 x 26.5 x 14.75. Port Internal: 9.75" Wide x 14.75" High x 28.25" long. If my math is right its 10.5 cu.ft. inside the enclosure minus 2.35 cu.ft. of port and .28 cu. ft. for the drivers, the subs are seeing 7.87 cu.ft. The box has 45'd corners but idk how much those are displacing, they aren't very big.
  2. Should I just throw it in the dryer on hot?
  3. The tuning is fine. I'm more concerned with the port area being too big. Could cause the sub to bottom out among other things.
  4. I think I got it now. I had to put the port tuning at 30hz in order to get the port length correct. The depth is also showing correctly now too. Doesn't really tell me if my port is too big though, just that its apparently tuned to 30hz.
  5. I'm not sure what's up with sub box pro but it doesn't allow me to enter the depth of the enclosure.
  6. I've seen a general rule of thumb of 16 in^2 but my box was built with 18. How screwed am I? Do I need to have another box built?
  7. With everything turned off, no vibration wind or noise. The ohms would be stable unless both subs were in the box together. Again no power, movement or noise. Ohms stable on the DMM in all tests until both subs are in the box together and then it gets erratic. I've compared this to a friends 4 12's box and his stays stable. Something isn't right.
  8. Update: I checked the ohm load from the speaker wires at the amp and its bouncing all over the place from 0.0 to 4.0. After much trial and error I found out that if both subs are in the box the ohms go crazy but if only one sub is in the box or both are out its stable. Apparently they are fighting each other somehow?
  9. Maybe it is. Or maybe there is another issue causing the problem. That's what I'm trying to figure out.
  10. No it hasn't shut down. The smell is what worries me. Afraid if I'm burning glue off the coil its only a matter of time before it unwinds and I'm out the $$$.
  11. I've got 2 (dual 1 ohm) psi platform one 15's running on the CAB 22 at 1 ohm. Source is a pioneer 80prs. All in a 2004 Tahoe. The subs are brand new (not broken in) and the electrical is stock. I've already ordered a xs power d3400 and a mechman 320 amp alt, just waiting on delivery. The problem is the cones warming up, the left side of the amp warming up (rca/settings side) and the slight funky smell coming from the port. This only happens when I turn it up and really send it. Checked all the coils and they are exactly 1.0 ohm, made sure wiring was correct (using the diagram on 12volt website), I'm watching the clip light so I don't think its clipping. They are rated 1000 rms each and I doubt the cab is putting out a full 2000 (stock elec and rise) so they shouldn't be overpowered. Would the subs being new and the stock elec cause this or where else would I look? The cones warming up makes me think clipping or overpowering but neither seem likely given the clip light and the ratings of the amp/subs. Thanks in advance EDIT: Gain is at 1/4th, no boost, subsonic 25, lpf 80, HU sub out is at 0, EQ bass is turned down -1
  12. Yeah it stays well above 14 the vast majority of the time but I'm not very mechanically inclined so figured it was best to ask. Thanks
  13. First some details: I have a 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe with the 2.7L V6. I installed a high output alternator from AutoTech engineering, 143 amps at 650 RPM and 286 amps at 1800 RPM. 1/0 ground directly from alt and a separate ground from battery. Using the factory power wire (from the old alt) in addition to a new 1/0 power run. Alt came with a 2 wire clip (original harness not used) 1 wire goes to alt top post and the other to a 12v ignition source (I used a fuse tap). Voltage fluctuates a bit but in park, neutral or while driving it sits around 14.7-14.9. When I'm in drive but stopped, like at a traffic light, it will drop to low 14's. In Reverse it drops to mid 13's. Is this normal activity? I'm using a volt meter that plugs into the cigarette lighter which I know isn't great (I've ordered a legit meter already) could this be the issue entirely? It's also possible that the auto parts store gave me the factory sized belt when I asked for one .5" shorter. I googled this after the fact and realized that the 79" belt he gave me is the stock size. Would this somehow cause lower voltage in reverse and at idle? I'm wayyy out of my depth here any advice/insight would be really helpful. TIA
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